X-Frame cylinder holes - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrownAzt3ka View Post
    MY BAD.... LMFAO.
    1963 IMPALA
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  3. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by RiddinglowCR View Post
    Ive seen that done. And its not a bad idea. But I want to keep it as OG as possible. I would like to go with the other option of not cutting that up.
    ME TO,,ON TOP OF THAT IT DIDNT LOOK TO STRONG FOR ME
    1963 IMPALA
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  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrownAzt3ka View Post
    i'd do the 1/4 to 1/2 inch away one then bro..
    Quote Originally Posted by IMPALA863 View Post
    ME TO,,ON TOP OF THAT IT DIDNT LOOK TO STRONG FOR ME
    OK thx.... Can I interpret this as follows??

    1/4 will make my cylinder real strait up

    1/2 will make my cylinder tilt a little more (upper of the cylinder torts the engine)
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  5. #24
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    On another note... ive heard it through the grape vine that after making my messurement out I should go back a little torts the back.. ???
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  6. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by RiddinglowCR View Post
    OK thx.... Can I interpret this as follows??

    1/4 will make my cylinder real strait up

    1/2 will make my cylinder tilt a little more (upper of the cylinder torts the engine)
    JUZ ABOUT BUT IT WILL BE OUT TOWARDS DA WHEEL WELLS(NOT SURE WAT U MENT)
    1963 IMPALA
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  7. #26
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    that the shims out of the a-arm cross bar. then bolt the cross bar tight.


    take whatever hole saw you plan to use (like for the aircraft setups I use a 2" hole saw) and space the hole saw 1/4" from the cross bar and drill. this way the cylinder dont his the cross bar and you dont need to do any lame shit like welding a piece of coil spring to the cross bar.
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  8. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by IMPALA863 View Post
    JUZ ABOUT BUT IT WILL BE OUT TOWARDS DA WHEEL WELLS(NOT SURE WAT U MENT)
    what I mean is that if i go out

    1). 1/4 my cylinder will be more strait upwards ( when hole is cut and cylinder is installed ) it will be some what like this ( l¬ ) RED bein the cylinder and BLUE the cross bar.

    2). if I do the 1/2 my cylinder will tilt some ( /¬ ) RED bein the cylinder and BLUE the cross bar.

    Is that right or it dont really matter?

    Quote Originally Posted by TATTOO-76 View Post
    that the shims out of the a-arm cross bar. then bolt the cross bar tight.


    take whatever hole saw you plan to use (like for the aircraft setups I use a 2" hole saw) and space the hole saw 1/4" from the cross bar and drill. this way the cylinder dont his the cross bar and you dont need to do any lame shit like welding a piece of coil spring to the cross bar.
    Haaa.. ok i think i gotcha right. Let me interpret that....

    1) Put upper a-arms back on tight
    2) Face the hole saw straight down like facing the floor (ground)
    3) Place the hole saw 1/4" away form the cross bar torts the out side (using the wall of the hole saw to the cross bar as my guide)
    4) And CUT

    Does that sound right?
    Last edited by RiddinglowCR; 02-03-2012 at 05:48 PM.
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  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by RiddinglowCR View Post


    Haaa.. ok i think i gotcha right. Let me interpret that....

    1) Put upper a-arms back on tight
    2) Face the hole saw straight down like facing the floor (ground)
    3) Place the hole saw 1/4" away form the cross bar torts the out side (using the wall of the hole saw to the cross bar as my guide)
    4) And CUT

    Does that sound right?
    thats how ive done it to a few x-frames. 2 of them had 2" OD cylinders (for aircraft hydraulics).
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  10. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by TATTOO-76 View Post
    thats how ive done it to a few x-frames. 2 of them had 2" OD cylinders (for aircraft hydraulics).
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  11. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by OVERTIME View Post
    I know its been asked before but the search wont work. How far away from the front shock hole do i drill for the center of the cylinder on a x frame ?
    I used to see a lot of cars with the a-arm bar notched just about 1/4" These were not hoppers. Frame reinforcement was not around back then so I can't say if it harmed the suspension in any way. Most riders I knew never keep their cars for very long anyways. Just stating something I seen in the 70's, not too sure if it applies to now.








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    Quote Originally Posted by Hydros View Post
    I used to see a lot of cars with the a-arm bar notched just about 1/4" These were not hoppers. Frame reinforcement was not around back then so I can't say if it harmed the suspension in any way. Most riders I knew never keep their cars for very long anyways. Just stating something I seen in the 70's, not too sure if it applies to now.








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    All comments/replies and posts presented by Hydros are in no way to be interpreted as negative, slanderous or demeaning. All comments/replies and posts presented by Hydros are not meant to encourage those that feel the need to, yet fail to emulate Triumph, the Insult Comic Dog. Nor are comments/replies and posts by Hydros meant to encourage any member/s to display emotions that are elitist, negative, condescending, immature, insensitive and/or self-absorbing.

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  13. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by clairfbeeIII View Post
    Hate to disagree but I center my cylinders direct
    Same thing that went through my head
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  14. #33
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    TTT
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    TTT
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  16. #35
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    ttt Im having the same problem. I even put washers on my arm and its still too tight .the cylinder fits straight up and they wont go into the spring.

  17. #36
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    somethingwronga.jpgsomethingwrongb.jpg

    here is my 2 holes that i drilled out. the right one has been reemed out more than the left. When I install the cylinder did goes vertical. it seems like if i cut out more there wont be much left on the frame.

  18. #37
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    Come on guys where's the help???

  19. #38
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    I went 3/8 from the shock hole then I cut with a 1-3/4 hole saw the cylinders are 1-5/8

  20. #39
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    Is it ok to run those shims on the a-arm bar?

  21. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by mademan9 View Post
    Is it ok to run those shims on the a-arm bar?
    yes it is ok... all the shims do is bring in the a arms.... helps tire life if you have over extended arms...
    APPARENTLY ITS COOLER TO "DICK RIDE" THAN IT IS TO "LOW RIDE" THESE DAYS...

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