Car Audio Tech Support Thread
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  1. #1
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    Please read before you ask questions!
    This thread will be HEAVILY moderated and is intended ONLY for topics that can help the members of Lay It Low with common car audio needs, so they do not have to be asked over and over again...

    If you feel like you have found something that will be of use to other members, by all means post it here...
    Please provide an accurate description of what you are posting, along with any necessary links to go along with it...

    If we find a post that we feel will help other members, we will move it to this topic...

    No B/S or random meaningless posts will be tolerated what so ever!
    No comments are needed in this thread, they WILL be deleted...
    If your post gets deleted or edited, DO NOT whine about it, you have been forewarned...

    I hope everyone gains from this thread, enjoy...

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  3. #2
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    Basic Car Audio Electronics

    This site will help you to understand basic electronics and some electronic devices.
    It will, of course, also touch on car audio acoustics and car audio equipment.
    To make the lessons as painless as possible, you'll find hundreds of diagrams and pictures,
    .wav files and more than 50 javascript calculators on the 125+ individual web pages.
    If you make even a modest effort, you'll learn more about car audio electronics than you ever thought possible.

  4. #3
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    DataSheet4U is a free electronic engineering tool that enables you to locate product datasheets from hundreds of electronic component manufacturers worldwide.

    http://www.datasheet4u.com
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    SCALE LOWS
    JEVRIES.com Designs for all kinds
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  5. #4
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    <a href=\'http://www.darkscience.com.au/caraudiohowto/slotcalc/\' target=\'_blank\'>PORTED BOX CALCULATOR</a>

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  6. #5
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    Here's from a sticky I wrote up on another forum:

    "Frequently Asked Car Audio Questions"

    http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.ph...18462&t=118462

  7. #6
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    Cadillac Fleetwood Tutorial - Big Body, 93-95ish H/U install with factory remote mounted tuner / amp in the trunk

    A lot of people ask about this type of Cadi, and I finally got one in and did a step by step on how to install a head unit and what you need to look out for. It has been a popular car, and the head unit can be tricky if you have never worked on one. I know its long but you can link to this when someone asks about this car.

    Here is the stock radio. There is no harness that will plug into this radios harness behing the dash. There is also no antenna behind the dash.


    There is a remote tuner/amp on the back passenger quarter panel next to the power antenna. this is where you will find front and rear speakers, 12v, acc, dimmer, and power antenna. Here you can use a Metra 70-1858, or best Kits BHA-1858 or what ever brand of 88-up Gm harness.
    What I did is take 9-conductor wire, for the speakers, and 3 conductor for the power. also an 18ft antenna extension and antenna adaptor., and hooked it to the 1858 harness and ran it to the back.


    A Major problem on these cars is the amount of depth that is available for a new radio. there is a metal brace running behind this plastic plate. if you are doing a basic cd player you may not have a problem. If you are doing anything that is deeper like a kenwood mask type deck or an indash flip out screen you may not have enough depth and may have to do some major work to get a radio mounted.
    I will make a new topic on how to modify the dash to get a deep radio to fit.


    This kit will fit. It is a Best Kits BKGM420, a newer version that has some extra tabs on the top and bottom.


    take the brackets off the stock radio and bolt them into the 420kit.


    break off all tabs on the 420, the stock brackets will mount the kit to the car.


    here is the kit in the car.


    and here is the problem with the depth.


    if you were to cut the plastic you will gain a little bit. be carefull on cutting this becuse of the factory wiring that is running behind it.


    I have some more pics of rebuilding the dash bezel to fit a panasonic monitor, and I will try an post them soon.
    any questions feel free to ask.
    DC
    Visit Carshowdisplays.com For car show display signs, vinyl decals, Air brush and paint stencils, Plexiglass etching, LED Lighting, and more. Contact me at dcsignsndecals@yahoo.com for Photo engraved pendants and dog tags. Myspace page

  8. #7
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    Found this on the net......

    "This thread is one to view if your are experiencing noise in your sound system."

    http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimat...f=5;t=008251;p=
    MY GOLD PLATING
    http://photobucket.com/albums/f221/SWITCHCRAFT/


    good work isn't cheap and cheap work isn't good

  9. #8
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    Install Doctor : Install it yourself

    http://www.installdr.com/InstallYourself.html
    1967 Chevy Impala (minor restoration in progress)


  10. #9
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    VERY good link....

    "Technical Information for Mobile Electronics Installers"

    http://www.the12volt.com/

  11. #10
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    Stereo System Test & Analysis Tones

    ALL FILES CREATED BY RON "NINO" BATISTA - 2005 -
    FEEL FREE TO DOWNLOAD, BURN AND DISTRIBUTE.

    http://www.ronelmm.com/tones/

    Everyone have fun with these, just don't blow your equipment up...

  12. #11
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    1967 Chevy Impala (minor restoration in progress)


  13. #12
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    Pre-Designed Ported Box Plans by cubic feet and port tuning.

    http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137804

    EDIT: Some of the images are not working now.

  14. #13
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    Upgrading Your Electrical System: Amps, Alternators, and Batteries

    http://www.termpro.com/articles/electsys.html

    I'm seeing alot of Alt. questions, so hope this helped some.
    1967 Chevy Impala (minor restoration in progress)


  15. #14
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  16. #15
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    Not sure how accurate this is, but it may be useful...



    http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html

  17. #16
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    BORROWED FROM ANOTHER FORUM!
    "What matters" with regard to speaker specs, T/S specs, for the layman"
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    If you are looking to "get your feet wet", with understanding what the heck all these specs, figures, and numbers mean - my best advice is to NOT worry about the textbook definition of "what they mean" literally - there's really not much practical value in that for most enthusiasts.
    Let's take a look instead at "what can I use these specs for, to understand this subwoofer better?"
    ...and you may be surprised that with many of these specs, comparing them from one manufacturer to another is like compariing apples to oranges.
    So it pays to understand what questions to ask when you are looking at them, also.
    Qms -
    A mechanical / pneumatic "quality" number that truthfully doesn't lend a great deal of insight to helping you choose a subwoofer for most applications.
    It is affected by physical properties that you can look at more accurately (IMO) through other specs, such as moving mass (look at Mms), suspension compliance (look at Vas, or a Cms curve), etc.
    Qes -
    An electrical "quality" number... think of it instead as a good indicator of motor strength. Do you need a subwoofer with a strong motor? You might be surprised to learn that high strength isn't always a good thing. (hint: Look at EBP... or check out Qts. )
    The smaller the number, the stronger the motor.
    (also, the smaller the number, the smaller the enclosure, quite often - but it is just one factor in that equation )
    Qts -
    A calculated number, using Qes and Qms - for a "total quality" number. I sort of downplayed Qms's importance earlier... and even in this calculation, Qes so far outweighs Qms in this calculation, that Qts actually ends up quite close in value to Qes - and small adjustments to Qes affect Qts much more than even large adjustments to Qms would have.
    Anyway - this is an important one. One of the "main 3" you need to calculate enclosure size/type/performance. (along with Fs and Vas).
    Qts mainly can tell you what sort of application your subwoofer is compatible in:
    High Qts value? Very compatible in a sealed enclosure.
    Low Qts value? Very compatible in a vented enclosure.
    Qts around 0.45 (middle of the road)? Design compromise to work OK in either, rather than outstanding in one and bad in the other.
    It's very helpful that way.
    Fs -
    Resonant frequency. This is the frequency the subwoofer most easily resonates at - and in free air, has the highest impedence (actual resistance with a subwoofer varies both with frequency and enclosure - it's not just "4 ohms" or whatever - it may rise up over 40 ohms, in fact, at points!) at that frequency.
    What it's useful for looking at is in judging how low a subwoofer can play.
    A low Fs means the subwoofer will be able to play lower...
    ...but means it won't be as efficient in the higher frequencies either.
    So maybe not always a good thing - or rather, something you need to compromise with realistically, to target your own personal tastes... loud? Or low? Or a little of both?
    EBP -
    EBP stands for "efficiency bandwidth product", and it's just a helpful calculation, to expand on what Qts tells you with regard to the "what box is it good with?" question.
    EBP = Fs / Qes. Simple calculation.
    It includes Fs in the equation, because in a sealed box, the subwoofer needs a low Fs in order to play low frequencies.
    In a vented box however, you can design the enclosure so that it helps extend the low frequencies farther than a sealed box, so Fs isn't as important for that.
    Qes is important because in a vented enclosure, you have higher pressure forces at work - so you need a stronger motor to contend with them. In a sealed box, that stronger motor will drive up the system resonance (a box/sub combination version of Fs), making for bad sealed performance.
    The actual EBP number tells you whether it's good in sealed or vented...
    EBP at 50 or below, sub is best suited to sealed.
    EBP higher than about 80, sub is best suited to vented boxes.
    EBP in between, sub is OK in either sealed or vented.
    Vas -
    Suspension compliance. This number represents the "volume of air" that provides the same "spring" force as the suspension system on the subwoofer.
    What it means to you, is that a smaller Vas makes for smaller enclosures.
    What it also means, is that a smaller Vas makes for lower efficiency, and a higher system resonance as well.
    Mms -
    Moving mass. The cone and coil, and surround and spider even have a mass associated with them. The higher the moving mass, the lower the efficiency of the speaker - but the lower the Fs as well. A designer adjusts these when deciding how thick of a cone (of course a thick cone may be rigid too, which is a good thing), or what cone material to use.
    This is one reason why "high output" SPL subs are actually much less efficient than cheapo subs. Cheapo subs can be louder than SPL subs? Yes, unless you have the wattage to make that SPL sub scream, and that cheapo sub melt.
    Xmax -
    Here's a good one... represents the linear excursion of the subwoofer, from the "at rest" position, moving in one direction, until the measurement limit is met.
    AT least that's how SOME manufacturers list Xmax.
    Others list it as "peak to peak" - which obviously doubles the value.
    Others list Xmax when they really mean Xmech (like Polk, for example).
    Some perform a calculation of voice coil winding length compared to the thickness of the top plate - that's the traditional method, and it's not horrible, it's just also not "apples to apples".
    So you have to know what you are looking at, when comparing.
    (and by "linear" - that means that the motor strength spec doesn't change, and suspension compliance spec doesn't change, as excursion changes. When it does begin to change, that marks the end of "linear" excursion)
    Xmech -
    This is essentially excursion without regard to how "linear" excursion is. This is how far the cone assembly can physically move, before it crashes into something and something breaks - coil smacks the back plate, cone crashes on the spider mount ring, tinsel leads rip out of the cone - needless to say, it's a limit you don't want to find the hard way!
    Xsus -
    This is the suspension component of "Xmax". Subwoofers may be "suspension limited", having a suspension that has a smaller range of linear excursion capability than the motor has. Xmax is always the smaller of the two values.
    Xmag -
    This is the motor strength component of "Xmax". Subwoofers may be "motor limited", having a motor that has a smaller range of linear excursion capability than the suspension has. Xmax is always the smaller of the two values.
    BL curve -
    This is an actual plot of motor strength with respect to excursion - simple plot really - motor strength on the Y-axis, excursion shown on the X-axis (and generally shows both positive and negative excursion - so traditional subwoofers with traditional architectures can look quite a bit like parabolas on these plots).
    Very helpful for understanding visually exactly HOW LINEAR a motor can be - and even how gradually it rolls off after that limit.
    Cms curve -
    The same thing as the BL curve, but shows suspension compliance with respect to excursion... so you can see exactly how linear the suspension is, and what it's limits are, where they are reached, and even how graduallly it rolls off after that limit.
    Re -
    This is just the DC resistance measurement of the coil. It's always a bit less than the "nominal impedence", and really doesn't tell you too much, other than "this is the lowest the impedence will ever dip to, on the impedence curve". (at some frequencies, impedence may rise up very high - a 4 ohm speaker might hit 50 ohms at Fs!)
    Le -
    Inductance is potentially an important thing to look at.
    a voice coil is a coil of wire - and so resembles an inductor.
    What does an inductor do? It resists changes in current direction and flow.
    What does a speaker do? It changes direction and frequency as quickly as the music throws those changes at it.
    So - basically you want your inductance to be as low as possible.
    Also... an inductor is a 6dB/octave low pass crossover - so at some point, inductance could be high enough that it prevents the speaker from playing frequencies higher than a certain point - the speaker itself prevents it - the lower the inductance, the higher the speaker is capable of playing.
    |2003 Eclipse GTS Fully Loaded | 230A Alternator | 65 Ft Knu Flek 0/1 | DC Audio XL12 | 2 x AudioQue2200D's | Hertz 6.5 Front | Alpine Type R 6x9 rear | Memphis MC3004 | 3 x D3100 Batts |

  18. #17
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    EDIT by Brahma Brian for NEWER model VM9312 is as follows...</span>

    <span style=\'color:red\'>1: Go into AM/FM mode
    2: Hit "setup" on the remote control
    3: Enter 543210 on the remote, listening for the beep for each number entered
    4: A new menu will appear. Touch the button that has the hammer/screwdriver on it in the upper left-hand part of the screen.
    5: Select Brake bypass to "ON" and hit the "X" near the bottom of the screen.
    6: Use the unit wisely and above all safely. A ticket is one thing, causing a fatal accident due to negligence is another.



    By the way, this is for informational purposes only and I will not be responsible for anything bad/stupid/ignorant you do with your Jensen unit

  19. #18
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    Audio Terms Glossary

    Find out what it means... A free service by ACI


    http://www.audioc.com/library1/glossary.htm

  20. #19
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  21. #20
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    The Thiele-Small Loudspeaker Database

    http://www.thielesmall.com/

    "The site is named after two Australian pioneers, A.N. Thiele and R.H. Small, who defined the Thiele-Small parameters, also known as TS parameters, around 1960-70. However, the site is by no means limited to Thiele-Small parameters; it also contains a lot of other information."

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