Step by Step Candy paint jobs
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    To get an idea or share and idea
    Step by Step Candy Paint job...

    Ya I know this is way overdue, but I was hesitant on doing it because there are so many ways of doing a candy job............................. that and I honestly don’t think you can learn how to do it just by reading something........it really takes practice practice and practice. You should start with solid based then move up to metalics and pearls before candy. Trust me, if you can't lay down a uniform metalic job, you will not be able to do a candy job........not yet any way so practice.

    Here it goes..........

    Since you should already know how to do all the prep work, I’ll skip all that and start at the point were the car should be ready for paint.

    The first thing to do is choose your base color and candy color. You can go with traditional silver or gold base, but the truth is that you can use any color base you want. Candy jobs are all about being creative customs, and the base color is the first step in getting creative.

    TIP - if you are going with a silver base, just use HOK’s silver sealer and skip the base, it’s a very nice and sparkly silver metallic, but best off all you’ll save time and money.

    Once you have your base and candy colors picked, spray a test panel. Make sure you have full coverage with the base, and use even passes on the candy. Keep on applying coats until you reach the desired tone, remember the more coats of candy you put on the darker the color will be. Keep in mind the number of coats that was needed to get you're desired tone, this will give you an idea of how many coats of candy you will be putting on the outside of the care, but doesn’t mean it is an exact number. You're test panel will be an important guide in keeping your color both inside and outside uniform.

    When doing a candy job it is always best to remove anything that will not be painted, as well as the doors, hood and trunk lid in order to do the jams. (you don‘t have to, but it‘s better if you do)

    If you didn’t gut your interior, make sure it is well masked off, the same with the engine bay.

    You can save time if you hang, or rest the doors, hood and trunk lid were you can spray the under sides as you do the jams.

    Again all your prep work should be done by now, so start by applying your sealer and base color

    Once you have applied your base, mix in 4 oz of candy concentrate to 1 quart of pre-mixed ready to spray candy. This will cut the number of coats needed for full coverage in half. Though it will reduce the depth of the final appearance, it’s important because less coats means less orange peel. So innless you plan on cutting and buffing your inner jams (some pro-show cars are done that way) make sure you don’t skip this step.

    Now that you have the candy mixed for the jams......when spraying try to make straight even passes, I know there are lots of curves, cracks and grooves but do your best. Use your test panel to determine when you have reached your desired tone. Once that is achieved, spray 2 wet coats of clear and you're done with the trunk, hood, and door jams. If you had space in you're shop you may have been able to do the underside of the trunk, and hood, as well as the inside of the doors, if not, just do these the next day while your jams are curing.

    Wait about 2 to 3 days later in order for the jams and doors to cure before reinstalling them. Make sure everything lines up properly.

    wet sand any over spray that got on the body from doing the jams, and clean.

    run masking tape along the edge of the inner jams to keep paint from misting into the cracks. 3M’s soft foam masking tape works best for this......Do the same with the trunk and hood.

    Prep and clean the outside for paint.

    Apply your sealer, and base.

    Now you’re ready for the candy.

    For you're fist coat of candy you are going to dilute it 25% by adding urethane clear to the candy (if using premix candy) So your first coat will be a 3 parts candy to 1 part clear mix. You may delute as much as 50% on your first coat to help you from starting out with blotches.

    Adjust you're gun to your preference. Keep in mind that you will be shooting from around 8” away from the surface, with at least an 8” fan pattern. Here is were having a pro gun really comes in handy.

    I find it easer to stay in straight even vertical lines if I start spraying from the bottom and work my way up. DO NOT FOLLOW THE CAR’S BODYLINES. Make up your own “imaginary” lines to follow that are leveled and straight. Keep an even pace when spraying, and move faster then you would on a normal bb/cc job.... Don’t jog or run across, it will be just a quick walk. This will give you more uniform light/medium coats. Always keep your gun steady, leveled, and even. Each pass will be overlapped by the next by 75%, and yes you will be walking the entire length of the car.

    Once you have one side done, you may do the same to the other side, or move up to the roof, trunk and hood.
    When doing the roof, trunk, and hood, start with the roof. You may need a long step stool that lets you spray from the rear to the front with out stopping. You could easily make one out of wood planks. Just like on the sides, keep your passes even and straight using the same speed too. Stop right BEFORE you get to the very middle. Do the same with the trunk and hood. Then switch sides. This time you will stop right AT the middle though.

    That middle line is notorious for tiger striping or should I say stripe......many tend to get a darker stripe right down the middle because they move right up to it from one end, and do the same from the other giving it double the coats as the rest of the car. This is something that definitely needs to be avoided and kept an eye on as you continue with the rest of the coats. Moving right up to it from one side, but stoping right befor it from the other usualy provents this problem.

    Now that the first coat is done, you will do the exact same thing with the up coming coats, only that the candy mix with be at normal strength with no clear added to dilute it. Keep your test panel handy and check it after each coat. You will know you have enough coats, when your car and test panel match in color. And since you used the same test panel to color match the jams, then your jams and outside should match as well. 5 to 6 coats is average for a candy job, but don’t be surprise to go up to 10

    After you're last coat of candy, apply 3 coats of UV protective topcoat clear. You could use normal clear, but the UV protection will help your color last longer.

    Wait a couple of days before coming back to block sand it with 600 and giving it “a flow coat” 1 or 2 more wet coats of clear...This will cut down on the orange peel dramatically and make it easer to cut and buff.

    Well there you have it, I know I skipped allot of general details, but those are common sense things that you should already know about if you're planning on tackling a candy job. One more thing I will touch base on is the mixing of your own candy.

    In the above step by step I was mostly referring to the use of premix urethane candy, but you can mix you're own candy using candy concentrates or toners mixed in urethane topcoat clear or intercoat clear........

    If you do mix your candy using intercoat clear, I suggest PPG’s DCU500(?) blending clear over HOK’s intercoat clear, mainly because PPG’s doesn’t have a build restriction were HOK’s sagest not to build there’s past 4 coats.

    Mixing your own candy using intercoat clear does make the whole job less expensive and easer to spray, since it’s less likely of you having a run with intercoat clear -vs- urethane topcoat clear, You’ll get less orange peel too. Just make sure you mix it in the right amounts, People tend to over mix there candy and get full coverage in less coats, witch cuts down on your depth, and that defeats the purpose of using candy in the first place. If using candy concentrates it’s usually 4 oz per 1 qrt of clear, about half that if using toners. But experiment with test panels to get your preferred mix.

    For those of you who already have experience with candy jobs, feel free to add your comments or suggestions (I know there will be lots)

    And for those of you who are planning on there first candy job......Good luck and don’t get discouraged, and once you have it down start adding flakes, patterns pearls, gold leaf, silver leaf, dollar bills, bugs........under, over or sandwiched in-between the candy.......YOUR IMAGINATION IS THE LIMIT!!
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    ttt
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    ~LO*LYSTICS NORTHERN CALIFAS~



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    nice tips homie. i havent tried any candy yet..but want to.
    one question is, you prefer clear instead of interclear?also are you spraying the clear as you would with hardner and all, just with some candy concentrate added to it?.also if i wanted flakes, i would spray the flake down first, then candy over them, right?to get like a bass boat effect? also what is the reasone to reduce the first coat? is it just to get more coats and depth like you mentioned?
    im thinking of trying iot on the wifes civic this summer maybe. i seen some candy concentrates at the paint shop the other week
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    Someone should make all your "how to" topics sticky
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    Originally posted by Xx_de_xX@Jun 8 2005, 05:09 PM
    Someone should make all your "how to" topics sticky
    [snapback]3245444[/snapback]

    Damn De_x I havn't seen you in a while, whatz you been up to?
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    Originally posted by pink63impala@Jun 8 2005, 04:58 PM
    nice tips homie. i havent tried any candy yet..but want to.
    one question is, you prefer clear instead of interclear?also are you spraying the clear as you would with hardner and all, just with some candy concentrate added to it?.also if i wanted flakes, i would spray the flake down first, then candy over them, right?to get like a bass boat effect? also what is the reasone to reduce the first coat? is it just to get more coats and depth like you mentioned?
    im thinking of trying iot on the wifes civic this summer maybe. i seen some candy concentrates at the paint shop the other week
    [snapback]3245403[/snapback]

    Good questions..

    Actualy up until recently I prefered the premixed urathane candy. It does need to be catalised and it does go on just like clear.

    I don't like mixing candy concentrated in normal clear, but I do like mixing it in intercoat clear. It's easer to apply, less expensive, and you get less orange peel too.

    The only reason to "delute" the first coat, is that it makes it easer to lay down with out starting out with blotches.

    When adding flakes, you can add them befor the candy, in the candy or over the candy. The choice is yours. I prefer adding flakes in the first and 2nd coat of candy.

    Yes you should try it on the wifes car and let us know how it goes.........let me guess it'll be a candy PINK civic?
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    Comp coughed up to many posts
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    ---
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    Not much man.. haven't had the internet in a while. How are things going with you? Looks like you've been busy!
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    Wet coat? Could someone explain it to me? I don't really understand?

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    A wet coat is just that.. it looks wet when you apply it. It's not a dry coat, a dust coat, a tack coat- it's a FULL coat.
    you should bang her and make the kid watch - Cadillac Ed

    God, grant me the power to...
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    Originally posted by wasup@Jun 8 2005, 08:51 PM
    Wet coat? Could someone explain it to me? I don't really understand?
    [snapback]3245981[/snapback]
    SO SHOUL YA START OUT WITH A WET COAT, OR DUST THE FIRST ONE ON ?
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    Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC@Jun 8 2005, 08:19 PM
    Good questions..

    Actualy up until recently I prefered the premixed urathane candy.* It does need to be catalised and it does go on just like clear.

    I don't like mixing candy concentrated in normal clear, but I do like mixing it in intercoat clear.* It's easer to apply, less expensive, and you get less orange peel too.

    The only reason to "delute" the first coat, is that it makes it easer to lay down with out starting out with blotches.

    When adding flakes, you can add them befor the candy, in the candy or over the candy.* The choice is yours.* I prefer adding flakes in the first and 2nd coat of candy.

    Yes you should try it on the wifes car and let us know how it goes.........let me guess it'll be a candy PINK civic?
    [snapback]3245785[/snapback]
    NA NO PINK CIVIC. I ACTUALLY WANTED TO DO CANDY PINKISH ON THE TREY AT FIRST, BUT TIME ANY MONEY CAME UP SHORT WHEN THE WIFE GOT PREGNANT.NOT SURE WHAT COLOR YET ON HER CIVIC, BEING I DRIVE IT TO WORK DAILY,JUST WANT TO PLAY AROUND WITH SOME COLORS ON IT
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    Personally, I always start out with a tack coat, instead of a full wet coat. Some might do it differently. There's a million ways to skin a cat- just gotta find out what suits you the best, get a system going, and stick to it.
    you should bang her and make the kid watch - Cadillac Ed

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    great topic

    my input, is to completly mask off door and trunk jams,,,cause ANY overspray in there gives you dark edges

    and i suggest starting at the bottom on one side of the car, and going up over and down the other side,,start on the oppisite side for the next coat
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    Good point........the 3m foam tape does a great job of sealing agenst overspray in the jams, but it never hurts to fully mask off the jams both on the car side and door side.
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    Originally posted by Xx_de_xX@Jun 9 2005, 08:06 AM
    Personally, I always start out with a tack coat, instead of a full wet coat.* Some might do it differently.* There's a million ways to skin a cat- just gotta find out what suits you the best, get a system going, and stick to it.
    [snapback]3248147[/snapback]
    Exactly, it's all a matter of prefrence.

    Just remember that not all paint steps are to be wet coated.......

    Metalics, pearls, flakes, and candies should be medium to light coats

    Topcoat clears, primers, and solid color single stages should end with wet coats.
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    Okay So After Reading All That And Learning A Couple Stuff..

    Besides Practice And Time With Patience, Would U Think Going To A College/University For Auto AirBrushing May Help?

    I Wanna Be An AirBrush Artist And I Know It's Not Gonna Be Easy For Me. I Wanna Do Full Body Painting But Also Some Firme Arte. Like Images U See On LowLowz.. Ladiez, Graphicz, Roses, U Know, Stuff Like That. I Already Got Skillz, Imaginationz, And Creationz On Paper And Wood.. But Now I Wanna Move Up OnTo Auto'z.. I've Experience With AirBrushing But I Know It's Not The Same As AirBrushing An Auto Professionally Or Skillfully As To What I've Done..

    Question Iz.. Would It Be Worth My Time Going To College/University For This Kind Of Course In AirBrushing?

    My Brother Suggested One In Houston, The Univeristy Of Techinical Institute And He Told Me That They Teach U EVERYTHING ABOUT AND ONLY AUTO'Z In There.. So I Been Looking Into That..

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