sanding between coats ?
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  1. #1
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    Hey guys, in a couple of weeks I will be painting my car. I am going with a black metallic acrylic enamel and an enamel clearcoat because I am on a low budget, and ive also heard that ss blacks come out real nice! -so my question is if (and when) i get a run in my paint or get any orange peel. will it be ok to wet sand my orange peel/runs down with this paint?? -and what grit should I use for orange peel and or runs??

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  3. #2
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    Shoot your black dry, and your first 2 coats of clear medium. Do your last coat of clear wet, if your clear drips, you can wetsand. But if your black runs, I recomend to stop. Wait till it cures. Fix it and try again

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    ive never used enamel clear, but it should all work the same.

    if you get runs in the clear you can take them out with a small sanding block and 800 grit wet paper. you can also use 600 or 1000, but 800 is a safe bet. and you will very likely have orange peel. so after the clear dries for a couple of days, wetsand with 1000, 1500 and 2000 then buff it out, then you will have a mirror like shine. make sure you lay more than one coat of clear too.
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  5. #4
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    -Thanx for the response but im not to concerned about the clear, just the paint. If it runs or orange peels can i wet sand the actual paint ???(black), or do i have to respray the whole thing when it cures?? -i am not confident that i can get the whole 1-2 wet coats down with no runs, or underspray in places...HELP

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    its really hard to run paint, it dries almost instantly. you could probably sand it though after it has dried, then spot paint the sanded area, then clear.

    just saw this, metallic basecoat, might prove tricky to do that.

    you should be more concerned about the clear, not the base.....
    I don't apologize. I'm sorry, but that's just the way I am.

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    RIP- Joe "JC" Carrisalez, 1945-2007, pinstriper extraordinaire

    San Antonio Rollerz Only c. 2003



  7. #6
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    sounds good, why would the clear be tough to do?? what do i have to worry about??

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    I disagree hotstuff, acrylic enamel can run pretty easily, its that old-fashioned paint. Also this is a metallic, so sanding a run out of the actual black-metallic is a problem and may mean the panel or car has to be re-shot. I'd really consider Urethane, even a cheapo one over Acrylic Enamel. Are you using the Acrylic Enamel Hardener??
    Black Acrylic Enamel with an Enamel Clear isn't called single-stage is it? sounds like 2 stages to me. How about a Urethane single-stage, Kirker basecoat is only about $38 for a gallon and you don't HAVE to clear over it, you can polish it up nicely...

    http://www.pontiaczone.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9737

    I'm definately no expert, just my .02...

  9. #8
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    Yeah, i didnt realize my ss was going to to turn into me wanting base/clear. I already ordered the paint...and yeah im using hardener

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    Originally posted by barthmonster@Feb 10 2006, 03:07 AM~4816680
    I disagree hotstuff, acrylic enamel can run pretty easily, its that old-fashioned paint.¬* Also this is a metallic, so sanding a run out of the actual black-metallic is a problem and may mean the panel or car has to be re-shot.¬* I'd really consider Urethane, even a cheapo one over Acrylic Enamel.¬* Are you using the Acrylic Enamel Hardener??
    Black Acrylic Enamel with an Enamel Clear isn't called single-stage is it?¬* sounds like 2 stages to me.¬* How about a Urethane single-stage, Kirker basecoat is only about $38 for a gallon and you don't HAVE to clear over it, you can polish it up nicely...

    http://www.pontiaczone.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9737

    I'm definately no expert, just my .02...
    thats why i was saying, ive never done acryllic enamel, i dont really know much about it. thanks for clearing that up, good to know
    I don't apologize. I'm sorry, but that's just the way I am.

    59 chevy truck-hot stuff
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    RIP- Joe "JC" Carrisalez, 1945-2007, pinstriper extraordinaire

    San Antonio Rollerz Only c. 2003



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    Originally posted by barthmonster@Feb 10 2006, 10:07 AM~4816680
    I disagree hotstuff, acrylic enamel can run pretty easily, its that old-fashioned paint.¬* Also this is a metallic, so sanding a run out of the actual black-metallic is a problem and may mean the panel or car has to be re-shot.¬* I'd really consider Urethane, even a cheapo one over Acrylic Enamel.¬* Are you using the Acrylic Enamel Hardener??
    Black Acrylic Enamel with an Enamel Clear isn't called single-stage is it?¬* sounds like 2 stages to me.¬* How about a Urethane single-stage, Kirker basecoat is only about $38 for a gallon and you don't HAVE to clear over it, you can polish it up nicely...

    http://www.pontiaczone.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9737

    I'm definately no expert, just my .02...

    the only acrylic enamels i liked so far is napa crossfire..........then again i only sprayed some car frames with it........i would never use it on a complete unless the car was a daily MAYBE




    the main thing i can tell you is watch the temp you spray these in they run so damn easy when it is not exactly warm in the shop or garage
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    dammit, i live in cleveland and its like 40 degrees here. I was gonna try to warm my garage up to about 60-70 if we get a nice day. would that be good enough??-or should I wait until it is warmer?? -I primed last weekend using a high-build lacuer and it came out good (after all my sanding)

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    Originally posted by ohioswanga@Feb 9 2006, 10:30 PM~4815493
    -Thanx for the response but im not to concerned about the clear, just the paint. If it runs or orange peels can i wet sand the actual paint ???(black), or do i have to respray the whole thing when it cures?? -i am not confident that i can get the whole 1-2 wet coats down with no runs, or underspray in places...HELP
    When your doing a 2 stage paint job, you dont do 1-2 wet coats. Theres just no need too. Shoot the paint dry. Dont worry about making the black shine. Just make sure you got enough paint on the car, you know around mirrors if your leaving them on. On the Bottem, and on the corners is usally were amatures miss of tend to forget

  14. #13
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    first off i have used alot of acrylic enamel i like a single stage black or red they give alot of depth spraying single stage is like spraying clear its not like spraying urethane basecoat at all if i were you i would forget putting any clear on it i would use the a/e with hardner mix as directed then on your last coat over reduce about ten to fifteen percent and becareful when you spray by over reducing it will flow out and have almost no orange peel you will be fine spraying in 60 70 degrees i would still use a medium reducer and medium hardner will allow to flow out a little better as well but remember you cannnot do a dry spray like they are telling you this is not a basecoat even if you do put clear over it you still cannot spray it dry like they are saying or you will have a super rough texture acrylic enamel is like a high solids clear where as a urethane basecoat you dont have to lay on wet it dries almost instantly and you can kind of dry spray it and it wont have any peel in it

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    Originally posted by ohioswanga@Feb 10 2006, 07:02 PM~4818713
    dammit, i live in cleveland and its like 40 degrees here. I was gonna try to warm my garage up to about 60-70 if we get a nice day. would that be good enough??-or should I wait until it is warmer?? -I primed last weekend using a high-build lacuer and it came out good (after all my sanding)


    yes 60 is perfect
    MY GOLD PLATING
    http://photobucket.com/albums/f221/SWITCHCRAFT/


    good work isn't cheap and cheap work isn't good

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    Originally posted by 86camaroman@Feb 12 2006, 04:20 PM~4832118
    first off i have used alot of acrylic enamel i like a single stage black or red they give alot of depth spraying single stage is like spraying clear its not like spraying urethane basecoat at all if i were you i would forget putting any clear on it i would use the a/e with hardner mix as directed then on your last coat over reduce about ten to fifteen percent and becareful when you spray by over reducing it will flow out and have almost no orange peel you will be fine spraying in 60 70 degrees i would still use a medium reducer and medium hardner will allow to flow out a little better as well but remember you cannnot do a dry spray like they are telling you this is not a basecoat even if you do put clear over it you still cannot spray it dry¬* like they are saying or you will have a super rough texture acrylic enamel is like a high solids clear where as a urethane basecoat you dont have to lay on wet it dries almost instantly and you can kind of dry spray it and it wont have any peel in it





    i could post up some single stage napa crossfire black that i sprayed on some comaro a arms,spindles etc.


    that look wet as fuck
    MY GOLD PLATING
    http://photobucket.com/albums/f221/SWITCHCRAFT/


    good work isn't cheap and cheap work isn't good

  17. #16
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    [quote]first off i have used alot of acrylic enamel i like a single stage black or red they give alot of depth spraying single stage is like spraying clear its not like spraying urethane basecoat at all if i were you i would forget putting any clear on it i would use the a/e with hardner mix as directed then on your last coat over reduce about ten to fifteen percent and becareful when you spray by over reducing it will flow out and have almost no orange peel you will be fine spraying in 60 70 degrees i would still use a medium reducer and medium hardner will allow to flow out a little better as well but remember you cannnot do a dry spray like they are telling you this is not a basecoat even if you do put clear over it you still cannot spray it dry like they are saying or you will have a super rough texture acrylic enamel is like a high solids clear where as a urethane basecoat you dont have to lay on wet it dries almost instantly and you can kind of dry spray it and it wont have any peel in it

    So do I still do 1 light coat and then 1 wet coat?? and y should I over- reduce the paint, to get less orange peel??

  18. #17
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    give it 1 light coat then 2 medium wet coats then over reduce your paint and give it a nice wet coat you will need around 4 coats on it if you over reduce your paint will flow out better so you wont have any peel if you dont mind orange peel then dont over reduce on a single stage solid color you can color sand and buff but if its a metalic you cannot do this it willl streak the metalic also i see you are in ohio i live in indiana you may want to consider having me come over and spray it if you dont live to far away i wouldnt charge much just to lay the paint on if its all masked up and ready to go

  19. #18
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    Your going to use enamel............and paint your car in Ohio in the dead of winter???? That stuff is never going to dry.

  20. #19
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    well my friend works at a body shop so if i fuck it up he will help fix it. I have painted before but im just worried about this car because i want it to come out perfect. And yeah im gonna try to paint in the winter, but im gonna wait til a nice day and I have a torpedo heater

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