epoxy primer over etch primer?
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  1. #1
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    would I run into problems spraying nason epoxy primer over nason etch primer? will be spraying onto bare metal.

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  3. #2
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    no no no
    epoxy then primer
    never epoxy over etching

  4. #3
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    Besides.......Epoxy alone will give you more protection and better hold out then etching.

    So skip the etching, and stick to just epoxy.
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  5. #4
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    etching gets into the metal tho while epoxy sits on top thats what i was told anyways just etch and use a good poly surfacer like k36

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    About to use this from HOK, see how it works.

    KD2000 DIRECT TO METAL PRIMER - PART A
    KDA2000 DIRECT TO METAL ACTIVATOR - PART B


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  7. #6
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    Originally posted by tofnlow@Mar 24 2006, 01:54 AM~5110550
    etching gets into the metal tho while epoxy sits on top thats what i was told anyways just etch and use a good poly surfacer like k36
    Yes, creating a good bond with the metal, but thats it. You are not getting any significant protection.

    Epoxy will also bond just as well over a properly preped serface, but best of all you will get excellant protection as well.

    etching primer is a bit old school now. It just can't compeat against epoxy.
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  8. #7
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    Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC@Mar 24 2006, 02:48 PM~5113378
    Yes, creating a good bond with the metal, but thats it.* You are not getting any significant protection.

    Epoxy will also bond just as well over a properly preped serface, but best of all you will get excellant protection as well.

    etching primer is a bit old school now.* It just can't compeat against epoxy.
    Hey MI Estilo CC

    I have a buddy here that asked me the difference in primers, I tried to explain a little to him but you are SOOO much better at that than me(damn Bikers), could you please elaborate a little on epoxy, etching, high build and the uses for each, I'm sure that others on here would also benefit as there are so many types nowadays and causes alot of confusion,thanks

  9. #8
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    fuck i'll break it down for ya the fastest way........


    etch primer is really not that useful in my opinion...........all it does is create a bond to bare metal.........


    NOT Needed because 2k epoxy has self etching properties in it so you can eliminate the etch primer.........not alot of shops really use it anymore......except in industrial painting


    now by high build i am going to assume you mean polyester primer............

    this is basically a sprayable body filler.............very nice.........i have used,

    evercoat slicksand, and a product called Sandy..............there is also one that smart shoppers sells it is mar hyde Quicksand........i wanna try that one because at $40 the damn price can't be beat


    Sandy around here costs $75 a gallon

    and slicksand costs $60 a gallon to give you an idea.........







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  10. #9
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    thank you, and that Mar-hyde is GREAT.......I've used thier products for years with great results

  11. #10
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    Man there are all kinds of primers, and no I don't know about all of them, but here are a few that I do know about....

    Starting with a basic lacquer primer that comes in 2 main forms.....sealer and serfacer...This is the same stuff you get in a spray can.......and not really recommended in custom painting, but it does have it's uses.

    1k Urethane - I've only seen it in a 1 part sealer, and I was not impressed at all.

    2k Urethane - I've tried it in sealer, serfacer, and highbuild ......I like using 2k highbuild my self

    Polyester - A true Highbuild 2 part primer...better described as spray on filler. Also has direct to metal properties.

    Acrylic - I've only used it in a 1 part sealer and love it.

    Etching primer - A 2 part direct to metal primer with a catalyst that is actually a mild acid that helps it dig into metal for better adhesion.

    Epoxies - Always a 2 part primer. It comes in all forms, Sealer, serfacer, highbuild and all 3 are direct to metal. Not only does it have excellent adhesion to just about anything, but it has the greatest overall protection against moister and solvents......It's only draw back is the price.

    I'm sure I'm missing some but these are the ones I'm familiar with.

    Now for the deferent forms in order of use..


    Direct to metal - Gives you good adhesion to metal and acts as a ground coat for all other materials. Best applied in one medium/wet coat. Followed by a serfacer or high build

    High build - A must when doing body work, its just like serfacer but thicker and can fill up to 60 grit scratches. Best applied in 1 to 2 wet coats. Should be left to fully dry then block sanded with 220 followed by 400 or serfacer primer.

    Serfacer - The most used form of primer. If fills up to 220 grit scratches. Best applied in at least 2 wet coats. Should be left to fully dry before block sanding with a finer grit such as 400.

    Sealer - Main purpose is to give you a neutral uniform color for your basecoat to go over. It also fills up to 320 grit scratches, and gives your base color better coverage with fewer coats. Best applied in one wet coat, let it flash and go directly to basecoat, no sanding needed.


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  12. #11
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    Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC@Mar 27 2006, 01:22 AM~5126912
    Man there are all kinds of primers, and no I don't know about all of them, but here are a few that I do know about....

    Starting with a basic lacquer primer that comes in 2 main forms.....sealer and serfacer...This is the same stuff you get in a spray can.......and not really recommended in custom painting, but it does have it's uses.

    1k Urethane - I've only seen it in a 1 part sealer, and I was not impressed at all.

    2k Urethane - I've tried it in sealer, serfacer, and highbuild ......I like using 2k highbuild my self

    Polyester - A true Highbuild 2 part primer...better described as spray on filler. Also has direct to metal properties.

    Acrylic - I've only used it in a 1 part sealer and love it.

    Etching primer - A 2 part direct to metal primer with a catalyst that is actually a mild acid that helps it dig into metal for better adhesion.

    Epoxies - Always a 2 part primer. It comes in all forms, Sealer, serfacer, highbuild and all 3 are direct to metal.* Not only does it have excellent adhesion to just about anything, but it has the greatest overall protection against moister and solvents......It's only draw back is the price.

    I'm sure I'm missing some but these are the ones I'm familiar with.

    Now for the deferent forms in order of use..
    Direct to metal - Gives you good adhesion to metal and acts as a ground coat for all other materials.* Best applied in one medium/wet coat. Followed by a serfacer or high build

    High build - A must when doing body work, its just like serfacer but thicker and can fill up to 60 grit scratches.* Best applied in 1 to 2 wet coats.* Should be left to fully dry then block sanded with 220 followed by 400 or serfacer primer.

    Serfacer - The most used form of primer.* If fills up to 220 grit scratches.* Best applied in at least 2 wet coats.* Should be left to fully dry before block sanding with a finer grit such as 400.

    Sealer - Main purpose is to give you a neutral uniform color for your basecoat to go over.* It also fills up to 320 grit scratches, and gives your base color better coverage with fewer coats.* Best applied in one wet coat, let it flash and go directly to basecoat, no sanding needed.


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  13. #12
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    Man now see, that is what I'm talking about!!!!!!!!!..........or rather what I could not talk about


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