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Hydraulics Tech - Suspension: Chain Bridge and Coil Over

Click Here to view pictures from a Coil Over install by Lona & Sons

The following tech information and diagrams are from LRM's How-To guide

How to add a rear chain bridge

Standard coil-over
Standard coil-over hydraulic system with the end of the cylinder shafts bolted to the axle tubes (a powerball can be used for cylinder rotation). To make the chain-bridge work, both rear cylinders must be controlled independently, so you need at least a three-pump system (or a two-pump setup with electrical cutoff valves that allows independent lift of the rear wheels). Eight to ten batteries in the trunk should be enough weight to bring either front wheel off the ground.

Chain bridge
A 2-inch box steel tubing brace across the top, welded as a bridge that connects the car's frame rails. Chains (rated at 2650-lbs weight load), positioned 10 inches apart, hang down from the bridge and are bolted to brackets that are welded on either side of the differential. The chain length is determined by extending the 14-inch cylinder about 10 inches. Use grade-8 bolts to connect both ends of the chains. Read through the step-by-step instructions below for details.
Chain bridge in action
This is the chain-bridge in action. Begin with both cylinders completely compressed. When you extend the left cylinder, it pushes down on the left axle raising the left side of the car. Normally, that's all you'd get. But, with the chain now acting as a pivot point, the car tips like a teeter-totter. As the left side of the car goes up, the right side is forced down on its springs, which, in turn, brings the left front wheel high in the air. It's easy and it works like a charm!
Click to enlarge 1. To keep things from coming apart, the coil-over approach is used. This traps the spring between the frame and the custom-made cup, welded up from a water pipe. Click to enlarge 2. The custom spring cup, made from a water pipe, will prevent the spring from flying out when moving the rear side to side and pulling a three wheel.
Click to enlarge 3. A U-bracket is made from two pieces of angle iron and welded to the axle tube. Click to enlarge 4. The end of the hydraulic shaft is drilled, prior to bolting it to the U-bracket on the axle tube.
Click to enlarge 5. The coil-over hydraulic cylinder is bolted to the U-bracket that has been welded to the car's rear axle tubes. Click to enlarge 6. After the cylinder has been bolted to the axle tube, reconnect it to the hydraulic system in the trunk.
Click to enlarge 7. A metal cutting blade makes short work of the 2-inch box tubing or the reinforced I-beam used for the bridge. Click to enlarge 8. Looking from below, you see the bridge connecting the car's rear frame rails. Holes, 10 inches apart, have already breen drilled for the chains.
Click to enlarge 9. Small L-brackets are welded as closely as possible to the pumpkin. Click to enlarge 10. U-shaped brackets are welded on top of the L-brackets to hold the chains.
Click to enlarge 11. Measure the 2650-lb weight load chains (for 14 inch cylinders extend them about 10 inches and then determine the chain length) and bolt them into place with grade-8 bolts. Click to enlarge 12. The chain-bridge easily doubles the height of the three-wheel.

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