 An 8" Showtime competition hydraulic cylinder and a regular metal pipe. |
 To fit over the cylinder, the inside of the metal pipe had to be slightly cut out with a lathe. |
 The pipe makes up the difference when the cylinder gets put into the factory strut. |
 The hydraulic fittings that will be used: 1/2" to 3/8" straight, 3/8" to 3/8" elbow, and 3/8" to #6 elbow. |
 The top was cut off of the factory strut, the shock inside was taken out and then a 7/8" hole was drilled at the bottom in the side to have access to the fittings. |
 After the pipe and cylinder were slid into the strut and the fittings were put on and tightened down, the cylinder was welded in the strut securely. |
 The cylinder was welded about an inch down from the collar to leave open future access for changing seals. |
 The strut was primered and painted black to make it look good and prevent it from rusting. |
 The hydraulic strut could have been put back on the car with the factory spring and factory mounting hardware. |
 But, to let the car sit as low as possible, I opted to delete the spring. A cup is used to distribute weight. |
 A regular spring cup was used under the upper mounting plate to distribute the weight. |
 The cup was put upside down in a piece of rubber to help keep it quiet. |
 Here it is installed on the strut/cylinder. |
 And how it looks bolted on the car. |
 Since no spring would be used, accumulators were added to the front pump off the dumps in the trunk. |
 The hydraulic hose was run from the trunk to the top side of the strut housing up under the hood. |
 The hose is then put through the housing with fittings and an 18" hose runs down to the hydraulic strut. |
 The hydraulic strut is bolted back in (a grade 8 bolt was used up top) and then hooked up to hose. |
 Low... |
 ...or high |