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Long time ago, back when the Mad Modeler Forum was around, i was a little into model lowriders. Life moves, hobbies change, whatever. I'm a noob, not making any kind of claims about knowing what's up.

Eventually I got into 1/14 scale radio control Trucking and Construction equipment. It's all about scale realism, making stuff look, move, work as accurate as possible. Couple times a year we take over a building for a weekend, set up roads, some buildings, bring in dirt or crumb rubber for the excavators and stuff to play in. Most guys run Semi trucks and work trucks and stuff, my style is a bit different.

Anyway, thought some of you might think this project looks kinda cool. Relax, i give in and accept that its a lowrider once i make it more driveable.
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Noobs can't post links, no pics or content this post
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Maybe now?

My 1/14 scale VW Bay-window bus (a "Dickie" brand rc conversion) looked a little lonely, so after much deliberation a Maisto "1/16" scale Split-window truck was tracked down. Uh, because reasons...

We'll start off with a nice new (already crap rc) Maisto "Type 2 VW Double-cab pickup" truck in "1/16 scale" that sure looks to be the same size, or slightly bigger, than my 1/14 Dickie VW van that i've found measurements and done the math on which is exactly 1/14 of real one.

So first off, there's room for improvement. A lot...



But what '50 year old' car made it through time exactly how you wanted?



Let's see that smile.



Not a bad starting point.

I was originally thinking something custom like all yellow, or blue over silver, white over green, or white over purple. The deeper into the stock options i looked, the more I like pearl white over mouse gray. Maus Grau ist schon!

It's running a ground and high centering on everything. Cool on static that i can just park up, not on a driver.
First let's start to fix that suspension!
Front starts with a knuckle flip, and some clearancing, but needs the lower mounts milled lower. Rear gets some milling at the chassis to bumper interface. That gets me rear is static here, with that much possible lift at front so far.



Pulling several screws and wiggling the chassis free doesn't seem right for a hobby grade up-conversion to me. So a set of strange headed screws are put in at the back body mounts, then the chassis screw posts are modified to take magnets and become pads. The front still will use an original tab and slot.



Since it's not a suicide rear door, it's not the earlier Binz coach-built version, so it looks like this custom 'Doka' is a factory VW somewhere between 1958-61.
The factory Doppelkabine Pritschewagen (double cab pickup truck) didn't come out until 1958, and the small Bullet front turnsignals went to the bigger Fisheye signals in 1961.

The taillights are odd, since for those years they should have been small round, and they didn't go oval until 1962 and later. Maybe it's custom, and owner got tired of people trying to ram it at stops from 'not seeing' tiny lights...
That's a better story than shave them and redo it. Plus the back window is wrong, should be smaller.

I dunno about wheels, i'm open to suggestions. I've always really liked these bus and trucks on stock Steelies with babymoons, Fuchs, Porsche 'gas burners', Empi wide 5 spoke, or Empi 8 spoke... Something that looks 'right' classic custom stuff. Never really saw them on spokes. If anybody has a set of pulloff wheels from a Dickie VW, let me know.

Plan to cut and change windows to clear, then probably make some interior. The rear window seems to need the current trim shaved, filled, then recut to be shrunk back toward stock, the bed floor needs better/flatter detail probably installing wood floor. Since i can't easily get up to stock ride height, maybe underbody lights, blue or purple might look good with grey/white.

And then some time much later, i'm gonna finish research on 1960s tilt deck or ramp loading car-hauler trailers. I'm really liking the single-axle racecar haulers that could pull with a sedan, station wagon, or truck. Because i think with a trailer and some paint this would be a cool outfit rolling down the strip.

Tin Bandai vw type 1 from 1960s

Took it to a meet just to snag couple pics.
I need more speed...







The chrome dual-port VW engine in the bed is actually an old Avon aftershave "dunebuggy" bottle cap cover.
 

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Let's strip that limo tint off! (With a dremel...)



So i made another concession to Kustom and kept the 1966-up big back window. It will show off an interior better once i make one, it already had the trim step-down. I'm not going to get all the Lowrider back out of the truck anyway, so why not leave a little show-car there. Small window is cuter, but i'd rather drive something with more rear visibility.


Using a dial caliper i scaled that pic on my phone to actual size on the truck, then figured out the lights center and step drilled to a snug fit on 5mm leds.



I like lights, so we might as well roll with it...


Looks like i need to either rough up the LEDs on my Underglow, or take a file and knock the 'lenses' off to help even out the pattern a little more. Looks much better in person, as my phone is certainly not a DSLR.

Anybody else like chrome?



Several guys i work with kept telling me how great Molotow liquid chrome is... i'm impressed.

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Cruising at another RC meet Jan 2019

My vws driver wanted to play too, so loaded up the VW truck bed with some scale RCs. Got a LaFrance pumper, T1 VW, Cat wheelloader, Cat excavator, 2 stick radios, 2 pistol radios








Yo i heard ya like VWs, so i got ya a VW to put in your VW...

Some brass came out and got turned into some odd parts.



Hitch added to the back of the pan, going to need a riser for the trailer



Strange hinged parallel lever setup above my steering knuckles. Any guesses what that might do?

Nose at full lift
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks man!

Originally I couldn't find anything about movable suspension on a 'junk toy grade car'. If i had a pan car or something 4 wheel ifs, there's TONS of ideas...

Started with a brass L shape that mounts to chassis, added a tube onto that. Slid a brass rod through tube for pivot, mounted brass rod arms on pivot rod. One arm rod extended to where servo arm sits, necked down an area fo hold string. Added side plates to pivot to keep arms centered over knuckles. Made some brass pins with smooth bottoms that push on top of knuckles down to lift chassis.

Brass hingey thing ties to chassis at front steering gearbox mounts. Equipped with knuckle pushrods, and side plates to keep it over knuckles. Some mechanical advantage, string, metal gear servo.

Blue vertical servo does steering.
Black laydown servo does attitude adjustment. Eventually gets a metal mount bracket to chassis.

Also pinned the draglink onto the knuckles so if can't pop free with the vertical travel



Pfffftsss


Wrrrrrssssssss




The Doka gets 8-spoke hubcaps. Looks close enough to a set of big Empi 8 spokes i'm ok with these for now. Yes one this age should be on some kind of Wide 5 wheels instead of 4 lug.

Chopped a tamiya M-wheel at the inner-bead wall of outside, chop the stiffener ribs, chop the wheel hex, trim the inner bead off, sand to thickness. Then some adjustment to the maisto wheels to make it work around the spinners and different offsets.

It's not perfect for the car, but it's much better!
 

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About this time I took this truck to another meet. Didn't get many pics, but my nose lift worked great! The crowd loved it!
However my departure angle seriously sucks! Even just the transition on or off the hardboard roads is bad and must watch all angles like a hawk. Forget about taking any of the bridges. Really need something for rear lift. Getting stuck isn't cool or awesome.

Got stuck in a traffic jam even up here...


At that meet several people who saw me playing with the front suspension mentioned (with some disappointment) that i "should have made the lowrider hop." Just can't win some days. Most adjustable ride VWs are on air anyway. Plus the hopper lowrider is gonna be another car anyway, you don't hop a vw unless it's some ridiculous exibition only car. (There's a plan forming here, but it's not todays plan...)

Get low.





Couple buddies go cruising after work one day.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If it's not scraping you're too high.





Stops tailgating cars even faster than using a rear window wiper



So i've a titanium grind block, with a little mild steel grind. Might need to go 1 more 'titanium' , or maybe add a hotter yellow flickering.

I've built in about 0.400" of useable rear suspension travel, it can go from jusc under the ride height of the Dickie bus to laid out, and could tuck wheels up even higher.
I know ya don't care, but i'm going to keep posting. I don't take hints!

I did some math and my tamiya wheels at 1.650" (42mm) hubcaps are scale 23" rims. I got more than "dubs" (20" wheels) on my V-dub.

I think i've got my rear suspension travel figured out. With my front end full up, I get the rear touching hitch on ground, then up to 0.550" (14mm) below hitch.

Here are the extremes




I found an empty area in the lower leading edge of the transaxle that i could mount a transverse rod. Figured out the wheelbase and drilled the chassis so the rod became a hinge pin.
Then cut out the structure below the transaxle, shaved the trans, i resculpted some gaps in it i'd made (using some epoxy putty.)

I took some brass square stock to make a frame around the new chassis cutout, the brass then ties into the trailer hitch and its drawbar plate, and that frame is glued to chassis. None of that actually robs me of any ground clearance from stock.

After i pick up another metal gear servo and made mounts, it'll be hitting Front and Back. It's not ever going to be full-motion, and not gangster enough to ever hit a standing 3. It's not about that life.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I bought a bunch of 3mm led Lens bezels from Truescale RC back in Sept, probably should start putting them in stuff...



Also got the rear end set up pretty well squared away.
Let's see some moves!

 
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