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Is that drive shaft combo a necessity? I had a new rear end seal put in, so far so good but i hear some binding when i have the rear slammed and the front cocked up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #322 ·
Is that drive shaft combo a necessity? I had a new rear end seal put in, so far so good but i hear some binding when i have the rear slammed and the front cocked up.
I've limped along with the stock drive shaft on both my 64's for some time, but it has always put my carrier bearing in compromising positions, and I have been through 4 carrier bearings in 2 years between the two cars. To do an air ride properly with full up/down travel in the rear, it really is necessary to have a reliable ride. Here is the link to the place that had very affordable shafts:

http://www.show-cars.com/13_Rear-End_01.html

I also had to buy a front shaft from them because the previous owner of my car fucked up my whole drive shaft situation, and nothing was the correct length. They have shafts available for virtually any transmission swap as well. So far, so good with mine! My set-up was $390 shipped, and i purchased the HD bearing from Ebay for $105 shipped. So just under $500 for a complete conversion. Most people will be able to skip the front $159 shaft, making the conversion even more affordable.
 

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Dang thats fast...how is it coming along since the wreck?
 

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Just caught this thread. Attached are a couple pictures of the 61 bagged belair I have been working on. Front tabbed shock towers. Running a RideTech air system, with RidePro digital controls .25 airlines. 16" Torq Thrust rims. Rear: CPP control arms upper and lower. Front: CPP tubular upper arms and stock lower.

I ended up smoothing out the spring pockets in the front so there was no chance of interference

View attachment 1219330 View attachment 1219338 View attachment 1219346
 

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Just caught this thread. Attached are a couple pictures of the 61 bagged belair I have been working on. Front tabbed shock towers. Running a RideTech air system, with RidePro digital controls .25 airlines. 16" Torq Thrust rims. Rear: CPP control arms upper and lower. Front: CPP tubular upper arms and stock lower.

I ended up smoothing out the spring pockets in the front so there was no chance of interference

View attachment 1219330 View attachment 1219338 View attachment 1219346
Can't see the pic's would like to see the rear setup I have the cpp arms also.
 

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I'm planning put air ride to my '60 Bel Air. Because of Finnish vehicle inspections, I would like to keep the car as original as I can. So, I would like to avoid any frame cutting etc and if necessary, put my car back to original suspension.

I have looked for complete kits and found plenty of them in many shops. But one I'm interested is exairride.com air ride kit. Is that direct bolt-on kit like they say in their website? Is that kit good or should I look for something else.

Thanks and sorry for my bad english :)
 

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I have a LS1 bagged 63, I went with SS 8's in the front and SS 7's in the rear. Initially I had SS 7's in the front. From MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, the 7's take too much air for lift. After switching to the 8's, I get more and a faster lift with less air. I did have to do some trimming, but it was worth it. If anyone needs/wants me to post any pictures, I will. My setup is FBSS, with stainless steel lines, 2 Air Zenith compressors, 8 gallon tank and Smart Ride Air system (pressure and height based).
 

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I have a LS1 bagged 63, I went with SS 8's in the front and SS 7's in the rear. Initially I had SS 7's in the front. From MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, the 7's take too much air for lift. After switching to the 8's, I get more and a faster lift with less air. I did have to do some trimming, but it was worth it. If anyone needs/wants me to post any pictures, I will. My setup is FBSS, with stainless steel lines, 2 Air Zenith compressors, 8 gallon tank and Smart Ride Air system (pressure and height based).
Absolutely we would like to see some pictures of your ride
 

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20140603_123251.jpg This is how I trimmed out the pocket. I had this on the car for about 3 years now and never had an issue with rubbing. 20140603_123114.jpg I know it's dirty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #336 ·
Are the plates on topside of the frame necessary on the rear? I'm trying to piece a setup together and don't recall seeing any of them.
Those plates are typically used when the vehicle was previously equipped with hydraulics, because a large hole is cut right there in the frame for the cylinder to pass through.
 
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