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Good info on here... Thanks to everyone who puts their 2 cents.... What master cylinder and proportioning valve is the best for this ? I plan on keeping it manual brakes with tha scarecrow brackets... The instructions with the scarecrow plates call for a late 70's Malibu master cylinder for a manual and a 80's cutlass master for power brakes.. Anybody try these?

Thanks for any help homies!!
 

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I'm having this same problem of the brakes feeling like they have air in them. I have a cpp brake booster with wildwood master cylinder. Bled the brakes a bunch of times still can't get the brakes to work . No leaks either. Thinking about getting that hydro boost now for sure I hope it works

bleed the master again maybe there is air in it but befor you do that make sure there are no leaks get a spray bottle put some dishwasher soap in it with water shake and spray a little at the connections have some one pump the brakes if you you see bubbles form then you know that connection is not tight . if you change the brake lines from back to front like I did then you need to check every connection. one problem area is where the hoes that goes between the axle and the hardline air gets trap there was hard for me to get the connection tight for me I have big hands might need to bleed from that spot.

if you didn't do any of that only check the areas you mess with check the brake caliper remove them and bleed them a different angles put a woodblock in between so you wont fuckup the brake piston up install back on bleed again like you normally would hope that helps.
 

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Bench bled the master cylinder again but didn't fix anything. I then adjusted the rod from the booster to where it was tight against the pedal which gave it more travel. Bam problem fixed
 

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Good info on here... Thanks to everyone who puts their 2 cents.... What master cylinder and proportioning valve is the best for this ? I plan on keeping it manual brakes with tha scarecrow brackets... The instructions with the scarecrow plates call for a late 70's Malibu master cylinder for a manual and a 80's cutlass master for power brakes.. Anybody try these?

Thanks for any help homies!!
I have power steering on my 64. I checked out the cutlass master but the cup is too shallow for the stock power setup. I ended up buying the bendix 10-1496
 

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I was wondering when doing the caprice spindle swap does it effect your turning radius at all?
 

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I just finished bleeding my system out today. I used the scarebird brackets and I bought everything else at the autoparts. If anyone is interested I can give you the part #'s to complete the project.
 

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Bringing this back from the dead but I'm to the point of needing to do my A-arms on the 64 and I've gotten everything needed for this drum to disc swap using caprice spindles, but now im hearing the caprice spindle pushes the stock arms out as is so what length upper Aarm extension are you guys running on your 64 with the caprice spindle swap 3/4"? I don't want to wear tires like crazy lol it's not a hopper it's partial wrap lay and play with a standing 3 wheel.pics would be great thanks homies!
 

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I have a question about the combination/proportion valve that is used with front disc conversions:

The rear break inlet has a threaded fitting with a pressure o ring. Is this fitting adjustable?

I ask because when the fitting is tightened it doesnt allow fluid pressure to the rear brakes. When i back the fitting out the pressure increases and the rear brakes are fine. I checked the brake switch with a test light and the metering valve is centered so i ruled out that common problem and the brake pressure is good when i bleed the breaks......anyone have this experience?

Thanks​




 

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I have a compete set up to do a Caprice conversion for sale if anyone is looking for some.the lowers come with the lower ball joint pockets already welded in with Moog ball joints,complete spindles,rotors,and break calipers
 

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I bought a Right Stuff drum to disc conversion kit for the front and back of my 4-door 64 impala and my 13s will not spin on the front without scraping. The back are fine. However, I purchased some 15s instead because the instructions stated that 14s were the minimum they supported and now my rims sit way too far out. When I turn it scrapes the edge of the fender. Anyone have any ideas on how I can fix this without having to buy more rims or new spindles? I just need about 1/2 an inch so that it doesn't scrape the fender when I turn but if I can get an inch that would be much better because I want to cut the coil about 2" to lower the front a bit.



Rim Gap.jpg


impala.jpg
 

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