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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i found this place that sells it for $80 a gallon with the cyatalist
i need to know how good it works for block sanding and shit like that thanks
 

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Zip it cunt!
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2k is primer is the shizz-nizzle. excellent for blocking, and can be applied over small spots of bare metal. just make sure you clean your gun up immediatly, cause that shit will turn into a rock.
 

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Originally posted by hot$tuff5964@Oct 8 2006, 07:17 PM~6330047
2k is primer is the shizz-nizzle. excellent for blocking, and can be applied over small spots of bare metal. just make sure you clean your gun up immediatly, cause that shit will turn into a rock.
yep! I love that shit! It builds and sand/blocks easy! :cool:
 

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I just bought some Evercoat 2K "Slick Sand" But I have not sprayed it yet....I paid $71 for a Gallon at the Carpaint store. I was warned by them also to spray it quick and clean the gun right away....You got like 30 minutes to work with the pot...Then it becomes a mess....The hotter the ambient temperature the less time you have to work.
 

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Evercoat 2K "Slick Sand" But I have not sprayed it yet
I've sprayed a little of the stuff.
You should use at least a 1.8 tip, preferably a 2.2 tip.
Make sure you spray it on wet, and sand it within a day, or you'll be like me and have to sand the pebble like orange peel with #36 grit just to knock it down.
 

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Originally posted by Threadjacker@Oct 9 2006, 11:40 AM~6334393
I've sprayed a little of the stuff.
You should use at least a 1.8 tip, preferably a 2.2 tip.
Make sure you spray it on wet, and sand it within a day, or you'll be like me and have to sand the pebble like orange peel with #36 grit just to knock it down.
make sure the can WELL shaken. u probably will spend @ half hour stirring it up if it sits too long. can use 3 coats to fill in door dings, scratches.
 

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I use slicksand all day everyday. Best primer ever. I block 320, and then 600 wet. Wears the sand paper like hell, but is good shit. I finish the filler 80 grit for this stuff. Filled 40 grit a few times, but barely saw scratch marks after a month after. I do not use finishing putty unless doing small repairs (door dings, sratches).
 

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Originally posted by caddeville@Oct 9 2006, 08:59 PM~6337496
I use slicksand all day everyday. Best primer ever. I block 320, and then 600 wet. Wears the sand paper like hell, but is good shit. I finish the filler 80 grit for this stuff. Filled 40 grit a few times, but barely saw scratch marks after a month after. I do not use finishing putty unless doing small repairs (door dings, sratches).
dam your killing yourself with that 320 to start blocking,i usually shoot 3-4 HEAVY coats then block it down with 120-220 grit then shoot it again with 3 heavy coats and finish it off with 400 grit.leaves the car lazer straight
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
so i should wait then to apply this stuff to my car until it`s ready for paint?
cause my plan was to 2k primer it then paint it as soon as this nw.ohio winter weather breaks
 

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do it in a datsun!!
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Originally posted by flynbrian@Oct 9 2006, 12:27 PM~6333831
I just bought some Evercoat 2K "Slick Sand" But I have not sprayed it yet....I paid $71 for a Gallon at the Carpaint store. I was warned by them also to spray it quick and clean the gun right away....You got like 30 minutes to work with the pot...Then it becomes a mess....The hotter the ambient temperature the less time you have to work.
i only use it if the surface is really bad, its too thick for most aplications
 

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I just bought a brand new 1.8 nozzle HVLP primer gun to spray it with. I plan to use it all over the whole car....I had a vinyl top that I removed and alot of the factory 1974 paint is still on the car...The body is very straight for the most part except the hood and roof...I have got many little gouges in the roof from razor scraping the roof glue....Lots of spots with factory dark red GM primer still adhered....But I have not sanded yet at all....I also scraped alot of the old factory paint with razors where the sun had made it brittle....But right around the door handle height the paint starts getting more solid...from there down. I planned on hitting all the horizontal surfaces with 80 grit D&A to get rid of old surface rust and loose paint/primer....Then shoot it with the slick sand.

The car is super clean really with zero door dings down either side of the car but it has some suttle panel ripples that are factory from 1974 build quality....I plan on blocking till its perfect since I am shooting the car Black single stage all over.

I will have alot of spots where the metal is bare and where it will still have original primer....The slick sand I am told is very good for bare metal and it is not supposed to even have etch prime or anything under it...But I am told that if the factory primer is still solid and adhered good not to worry about it affecting the 2K since its been there for 32 years already...
 

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at work we sometimes get that 2k five star primer "direct to metal" i've noticed that sometimes it shrinks back, after we've painted the cars, why's that,,, has anyone had similar problems
 

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I just shot a CCS direct to metal 2k. I loved the way it went on, I havent sanded it yet.
 
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