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battery isolater, bigger alt or second alt, a kinetik or stingeror optima battery and some good wiring
 

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Originally posted by badcayne@Oct 29 2007, 09:33 PM~9111229
battery isolater, bigger alt or second alt, a kinetik or stingeror optima battery and some good wiring
a couple of inline fuses wouldn't hurt either.. it's stop the wire from buring up your shit should something happen and it arcs.. just put 1 on each end of the cable that's running between the 2 batteries..
 

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actually as long as you have both the same batteries....such as two optima red tops.....you don't need the isolator.....just an inline fuse within 12 inches of each battery (so I was told and never had an issue with doing it that way)
 

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I WOULD BUY ONE OF THE ISLOATORS, OR A RELAY. STINGER MAKES BOTH. I LIKE ISOLATOR BECAUSE ONCE THE PRIMART BATTERY IS CHARGED, IT WILL DIRECT VOLTAGE TOO THE SECONDARY BATTERY. WELL IN THEORY.
 

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Originally posted by BIG DIRTY@Oct 30 2007, 09:49 AM~9113809
I WOULD BUY ONE OF THE ISLOATORS, OR A RELAY.  STINGER MAKES BOTH.  I LIKE ISOLATOR BECAUSE ONCE THE PRIMART BATTERY IS CHARGED, IT WILL DIRECT VOLTAGE TOO THE SECONDARY BATTERY. WELL IN THEORY.
Yeah I would recommend getting the isolator.....Stingers isolator is very small and simple to hook up.......but if need be you can get by without it for a little while.
 

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Originally posted by 79 cutty@Oct 30 2007, 12:33 PM~9114143
Yeah I would recommend getting the isolator.....Stingers isolator is very small and simple to hook up.......but if need be you can get by without it for a little while.
YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TOO JUST RUN A WIRE FROM THE FRONT TOO BACK, AND IT SHOULD WORK OKAY. I HAVE USED BOTH, A ISOLATOR, AND A RELAY. I LIKED THE ISOLATOR, BUT MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT ISOLATOR FOR YOUR ALTERNATOR, LIKE IF YOU GOT A 150 AMP ALTERNATOR, GET THE 210 ISOLATOR, NOT THE 95 AMP
 

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Originally posted by BIG DIRTY@Oct 30 2007, 03:11 PM~9116065
YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TOO JUST RUN A WIRE FROM THE FRONT TOO BACK, AND IT SHOULD WORK OKAY.  I HAVE USED BOTH, A ISOLATOR, AND A RELAY.  I LIKED THE ISOLATOR, BUT MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT ISOLATOR FOR YOUR ALTERNATOR, LIKE IF YOU GOT A 150 AMP ALTERNATOR, GET THE 210 ISOLATOR, NOT THE 95 AMP
That is pretty much all I did........with the isolator and the two batteries....but I was told, and had in line fuses with 200 amp ANL fuses within 6 inches of each battery. :biggrin:
 

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Id get 2 new batteries and skip the isolator/solenoid/relay bullshit they eat voltage.......

run the bats + to + and - to -
 

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Originally posted by Pitbullx@Oct 30 2007, 07:32 PM~9117186
Id get 2 new batteries and skip the isolator/solenoid/relay bullshit they eat voltage.......

run the bats + to + and - to -
YOU WILL NEVER SEE THE DROP, IT IS VERY LITTLE.
 

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Originally posted by BIG DIRTY@Oct 31 2007, 09:12 PM~9126588
YOU WILL NEVER SEE THE DROP, IT IS VERY LITTLE.
any voltage drop is bad and it can be quite substantial in some instances.....

relays are only good if using different batteries or want to crank your shit all the time without the car running (which isnt a good idea to begin with)
 

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if its just a regular setup like 2 12s and like a good brand name 400-600 watt amp(or a cheaper amp that says 1000-1500 watts) id just run strait wire from battery to battery if its a huge system then id do the add ons :cool:
 

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Originally posted by danp68@Nov 1 2007, 06:14 PM~9132902
if its just a regular setup like 2 12s and like a good brand name 400-600 watt amp(or a cheaper amp that says 1000-1500 watts) id just run strait wire from battery to battery if its a huge system then id do the add ons :cool:
if that were true he wouldn't even need a second battery
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, well here's my set up 2-12's Audiobahn Flame Q's and a Lanzar VIBE286 - Lanzar 2 Ch 4000 Watt Viberant MOSFET Amplifier it pushes my great but it drains my electrical system in the car. I thought that might be the way to go, but can get some more help and ssome pics of what u are talkin about.. thanks again....
 
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