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Does anyone have the link to the diagrams for a 4 dump 1 pump for standing three wheels having trouble finding it
 

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the plumbing is basically the same any way, but theres a few different ways to wire it, you dont have to use solenoids for each side
 

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Originally posted by AndrewH@Jun 19 2009, 08:54 PM~14243279
the plumbing is basically the same any way, but theres a few different ways to wire it, you dont have to use solenoids for each side
no individual solenoids? How do you pull that? I just have a basic 10 switch box so I had to.
 

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Originally posted by CoupeDTS@Jun 19 2009, 07:58 PM~14243300
no individual solenoids?  How do you pull that?  I just have a basic 10 switch box so I had to.
isolate the power to each switch, or simpley use diodes to keep the current from backtracking to the other dump.
 

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Ron at black magic has some dumps that specifically designed to be used as blocker dumps so that you can have individual control over th corners. I forget the whole specifics of the dumps but something you might want to call and ask about
 

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This is the diagram I was speaking of in the other topic. This diagram is (originally) DUMPS. He told me that to keep the set-up more reliable, he uses dedicated batteries; If you have a 6 battery set-up, use 4 f/ the pump(s) and two f/ the switches only. W/ switches wired at 24 volts. When DUMPS sent me this diagram, he had this set up on the rear of his Cutlass. Credit where credit's due.
 

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Originally posted by Jimmy C@Jun 20 2009, 09:32 AM~14246846
This is the diagram I was speaking of in the other topic.  This diagram is (originally) DUMPS.  He told me that to keep the set-up more reliable, he uses dedicated batteries; If you have a 6 battery set-up, use 4 f/ the pump(s) and two f/ the switches only.  W/ switches wired at 24 volts.  When DUMPS sent me this diagram, he had this set up on the rear of his Cutlass.  Credit where credit's due.
Thanks bro. :thumbsup:
Also, the check valve coming out of the block is not necassary with the newer gears and the newer tanks. Also, the dedicated batteries increases the life of the solenoids. :biggrin:
 

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Originally posted by AndrewH+Jun 19 2009, 10:09 PM~14244765-->
isolate the power to each switch, or simpley use diodes to keep the current from backtracking to the other dump.
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You can do this but it also requires you to rewire everything. My way uses the original wiring on a 4 pump switch box.

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@Jun 19 2009, 10:46 PM~14245088
Ron at black magic has some dumps that specifically designed to be used as blocker dumps so that you can have individual control over th corners. I forget the whole specifics of the dumps but something you might want to call and ask about
Hmm, I am not doubting he has them but I have been using standard, normally closed deltas for all my setups, even the cheaper newer ones, with no problems.
 

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Originally posted by Dumps@Jun 21 2009, 12:48 AM~14251059
You can do this but it also requires you to rewire everything. My way uses the original wiring on a 4 pump switch box.
Hmm, I am not doubting he has them but I have been using standard, normally closed deltas for all my setups, even the cheaper newer ones, with no problems.
yea the black magic ones he says open at 10v so supposedly they open faster. But all deltas are 12v and we run 24v to them so they should be opening fast enough already
 

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Originally posted by Dumps@Jun 20 2009, 10:41 PM~14251018
Thanks bro. :thumbsup:
Also, the check valve coming out of the block is not necassary with the newer gears and the newer tanks.  Also, the dedicated batteries increases the life of the solenoids. :biggrin:
DUMPS,
I hadn't seen you on here in quite sometime, although I haven't been super current on LIL lately as I'm into building a 383ci motor f/ my 'Vette. When I read that first post, it reminded me of the info I received from you last September. When I found that diagram in one of my Hydraulics folders, I got online, saw "this" topic and inturn saw your diagram, the one I had in-hand. I right away posted the specifics that you stated in the note and knew that I needed to add the fact that the diagram is your's. I'm glad that you saw the topic and added to it. It was appropriate and "right on time." Proves also to me that I was directed to "the source" when I asked f/ info to do w/ multi-dump set-ups.
 

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Originally posted by Dumps@Jun 20 2009, 11:48 PM~14251059
You can do this but it also requires you to rewire everything. My way uses the original wiring on a 4 pump switch box.
Hmm, I am not doubting he has them but I have been using standard, normally closed deltas for all my setups, even the cheaper newer ones, with no problems.
ya ive havent done a 4 dump 1 pump setup like that myself..thats why since i had suggested he check in with those dumps on the off chance that they were better to use than the regular ones being used..cuz i myself wasnt sure..
 

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I drew this up tonight.

I know theres many other ways to wire it and plumb it with different checks and slowdowns. But...

Its kind of how mine is setup with the checks and slowdown. Mines positioned differently with different fittings to look better and with accumies but this is a simple way to do a setup like this.

I use regular deltas with no problems.
 

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Tx Lowridin
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I did da diagram as pictured

Ok I got all setup perfect I can move each wheel individual problem is when I come down from a 3 wheel stand my cylinders drops hard like rock I have my slowdown barely cracked open to allow minimum fluid if I raise both cylinders and drop evenly it drops as it should nice and slow but wen I raise for instance back right cylinder it raises perfect but wen I drop it it collapses I have a hex slowdown on both return lines from da tee should I place another...helppppp or are my dumps bad checks are good because I closed da slowdown and tried dumping n no dumping occurred no leaks neither
 

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Biscaynedenny
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Ok I got all setup perfect I can move each wheel individual problem is when I come down from a 3 wheel stand my cylinders drops hard like rock I have my slowdown barely cracked open to allow minimum fluid if I raise both cylinders and drop evenly it drops as it should nice and slow but wen I raise for instance back right cylinder it raises perfect but wen I drop it it collapses I have a hex slowdown on both return lines from da tee should I place another...helppppp or are my dumps bad checks are good because I closed da slowdown and trie


Soud dumping n no dumping occurred no leaks neither
Sounds like ur slo is on backwards
 

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Tx Lowridin
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image.jpg 2 pumps 1 to da nose and 1 for the rear plumbed with 4 dumps thanks 2 da homies Dumps n Cadillac CTS :yes: it gets higher but I need a lil more weight to lean it more I'm on 6 batts 3 on each side and if I go push a corner down it will get up der still dropping like rock dough wen I dump da cylinder dat is extended and dat is with a rapid hit of da switch..flipped slow down and still dropping hard...I will add a 2nd slow down, and let y'all know wassup cause I'm loving da stand :roflmao:
 

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View attachment 816817 2 pumps 1 to da nose and 1 for the rear plumbed with 4 dumps thanks 2 da homies Dumps n Cadillac CTS :yes: it gets higher but I need a lil more weight to lean it more I'm on 6 batts 3 on each side and if I go push a corner down it will get up der still dropping like rock dough wen I dump da cylinder dat is extended and dat is with a rapid hit of da switch..flipped slow down and still dropping hard...I will add a 2nd slow down, and let y'all know wassup cause I'm loving da stand :roflmao:
Did you get it from dropping back down so fast or like a rock like you mentioned?
 
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