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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, how hard would it be to make your own 4 link bars? Assuming making adaptor plates on your rear axle and leaf spring perches won't be that hard. What all would you have to do, and how do you do correct geometry so your driveshaft won't bind when the car is laid out?
 

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ive made them with a tube notcher but its cheaper to buy universal ones then to buiild them
 

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Making your own bars isnt that difficult. Most stores have universal kits that will come with all the necessary bushings and ends so you can build it to suit your needs. You want to try to keep the rear in the same position it was before you pull everything apart. This way, the driveshaft wont move into a position where it will push into the tranny or pull out. You also want to position the links so that you can keep the pinion angle correct. You want to try to keep the bars level at ride height, close to parallel through the travel and the upper links should be shorter than the lowers. You will have to measure the angle of the tranny and use that to angle your rear end. By using adjustable bars, you can play with it a little once it is all welded or bolted in. It does take time and it needs to be set up correctly so try to gather as much info as possible before you tackle the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by nyccustomizer@Oct 1 2007, 09:20 AM~8906702
Making your own bars isnt that difficult.  Most stores have universal kits that will come with all the necessary bushings and ends so you can build it to suit your needs.  You want to try to keep the rear in the same position it was before you pull everything apart. This way, the driveshaft wont move into a position where it will push into the tranny or pull out.  You also want to position the links so that you can keep the pinion angle correct.  You want to try to keep the bars level at ride height, close to parallel through the travel and the upper links should be shorter than the lowers. You will have to measure the angle of the tranny and use that to angle your rear end.  By using adjustable bars, you can play with it a little once it is all welded or bolted in.  It does take time and it needs to be set up correctly so try to gather as much info as possible before you tackle the job.
So assuming we have cut all clearances (frame humps, trunk floor, driveshaft tunnel, ect) Should we just put the car on jackstands, take out the rear leaves and springs, and just crank the axle up with a jack until the tires are level with the framerails? That way, I'm assuming we would get the full range of motion of the driveshaft, and we wouldn't have any surprises when we weld in 4 link bars. How would you recommend doing it?
 

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Originally posted by nyccustomizer@Oct 1 2007, 12:20 PM~8906702
Making your own bars isnt that difficult.  Most stores have universal kits that will come with all the necessary bushings and ends so you can build it to suit your needs.  You want to try to keep the rear in the same position it was before you pull everything apart. This way, the driveshaft wont move into a position where it will push into the tranny or pull out.  You also want to position the links so that you can keep the pinion angle correct.  You want to try to keep the bars level at ride height, close to parallel through the travel and the upper links should be shorter than the lowers. You will have to measure the angle of the tranny and use that to angle your rear end.  By using adjustable bars, you can play with it a little once it is all welded or bolted in.  It does take time and it needs to be set up correctly so try to gather as much info as possible before you tackle the job.
this is true, i usssually tack a bar to the rearend/frame before removing the leaf springs, that way you dont have to worry about alinment issues :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Originally posted by impala_631@Oct 1 2007, 10:30 AM~8907217
this is true, i usssually tack a bar to the rearend/frame before removing the leaf springs, that way you dont have to worry about alinment issues :cool:
Then you just weld on the 4 link brackets, put the bars in, then take the bar off? The thing I'm really worried about is when you get the links welded up and you lay it out and the angle changes, I've heard of driveshafts wrapping up or catching the U-Joint when you lock it up. I'm not looking for hella high lift, but I'm trying to get her to where I can drive her liad out and throw some sparks. I peeped your Snot Rocket build-up. Truely inspiring work must say, came out bad ass!!! My6 other question is: Why should the uppers be shorter then the lowers?
 

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yes make sure EVERY thing is lined up at ride height...we did my 4link and i cant drive with the rear locked up cuz my pinion angle is waaaaaay off..but i do have adjustable bars..just havent messed with em yet

like homie said..gather as much info on a 4link as you can..and measure measure measure before you do any welding
 
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