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Discussion Starter #1
I'm pulling the body off my blazer soon, and before i pull my leaf mounts off to start making templates, I want to mock up my 4 link.

Let me start off by saying I've never done a 4 link before, and it confuses me as to why there are so many different types.

My strokes are mounted on the axle, on a bridge. I'm looking to lay low,get at least a 12-14" lockup and hella side moves (problly run 16" strokes for 3 wheel) and be able to drive! (wheels centered in wells,no horrible pinion,etc)

Best I can figure, I need a triangulated setup, since it'd be like a normal car rear end,but I guess theres still a million options.

Now I'm always up for doing things my own way, but I'm just lost here. I cant even vision what setup I would need without some pictures or something. I dont want to order some parts and spend forever trying to make sense of all the angles, lengths and travel if someone can point me in the right direction to narrow things down for me. I was seriously thinking a triangle 2 link with a panhard bar would be easiest, but I dunno. I want to keep my stock floor and lay pretty low (no notched frame or anything) and still drive with a good lockup for hopping.

Can anyone point me where I'm wanting to go?
 

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triangulated 4 link or use a wishbone mock it up before you remove your leaves once you have it welded on remove leaves and your done
 

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Originally posted by AndrewH@Oct 1 2007, 07:32 PM~8910550
I'm pulling the body off my blazer soon, and before i pull my leaf mounts off to start making templates, I want to mock up my 4 link.

Let me start off by saying I've never done a 4 link before, and it confuses me as to why there are so many different types.

My strokes are mounted on the axle, on a bridge. I'm looking to lay low,get at least a 12-14" lockup and hella side moves (problly run 16" strokes for 3 wheel) and be able to drive! (wheels centered in wells,no horrible pinion,etc)

Best I can figure, I need a triangulated setup, since it'd be like a normal car rear end,but I guess theres still a million options.

Now I'm always up for doing things my own way, but I'm just lost here. I cant even vision what setup I would need without some pictures or something. I dont want to order some parts and spend forever trying to make sense of all the angles, lengths and travel if someone can point me in the right direction to narrow things down for me. I was seriously thinking a triangle 2 link with a panhard bar would be easiest, but I dunno. I want to keep my stock floor and lay pretty low (no notched frame or anything) and still drive with a good lockup for hopping.

Can anyone point me where I'm wanting to go?
Why not use a G-body rearend and then all you have to do is make 4 mounts on the frame. I'll check on the widths of the 2 and see.
 

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is it a 2-door or 4-door?

I have a 2-door and I'm running a forward triangulated 4-link from www.suicidedoors.com

my cylinder are mounted on the lower bars...tons of lift and rides great.

and I didn't have to cut through my floor.
 

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how many leaf springs do you have now? Keep it at 2 and get rid of the coil spring on the cylinders, thats how I did my blazer and the ride qualty was great. If you want to get low then you have to notch out the frame
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm riding 13's and it'll be in the 40s-50's so its not gonna have to be THAT low. I'm keeping the cylinders on the axle, just using long ones to get my lift.

I want a forward triangulated 4 link, I know that much. but the stuff I dont get are things like I see some setups with the links starting at the pumkin and going outwards to the frame (at varying angles from setup to setup) and other setups that start towards the outsides of the axle and go inward on the frame. I dont get all of this.

Its a 89 2 door. the chassis is mono leafed right now.
 

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get a tiangulated(ajustable)4 link like said above -get the kit that has top links towards middle of differential and go to each frame side with the strait bottom links-box your frame while leafs are still on weld your 4 link in(at least top-on some the leaf mounts will be in the way for the bottom ones)-take off leafs-ajust top links so the u joint doesnt grind when u raise or drop it(if your not notching frame shouldnt grind low just lifted youll have to adjust the pinion angle on your rear end so its not bindin up on ya)plus youll have to put spring pockets of some sort on your frame
 

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Discussion Starter #8
sounds cool, I got a bridge i the back and i think I'm just going to tack everything in placer and get it all wheer i want it, take the leafes off and make sure its all working, then pul it back apart to finish wrapping the frame. I decided adjustable uppers are what i need from what a few guys a tellin me.
 

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just use the triangulated four link from suicidedoors with the superpivots best setup ive seen yet and as far as the top bars going out or in doesnt really matter as long as they are angled the angle is to keep you pinion angle in place and keep the rearend from swaying side to side
 

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Originally posted by AndrewH@Oct 9 2007, 05:40 PM~8962830
So would a 45degree angle be best? or does it not matter in a hydraulic situation.
thats why you get ajustables-put it on drive it lifted and lowered if it binds ajust it so it dont-u want to get your pinion as strait as possible to your driveshaft so there in the straitest line possible-u can also do it by sight by liftin and lowering and crawlin under and seeing how much its off-it wont be strait-just get it as strait as u can :cool:-plus a 45 degree angle would be way way to much-it wouldnt even be drivable it wouldnt move
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yeah, dont know what i was thinking about 45degs. I guess its not that important really, just enough to keep side sway from ripping mounts off...?

I'm getting adjustables for sure..

It's not that im totally dumb, I just have no idea if my uppers are 18" if my lowers should be 30" or 10". I mean obvious it will make a diffeence...

Airbag guys are telling me the lowers should mount the same distance from the axle as the uppers.. which would make my lowers a couple inches shorter...

oh well i guess i can go ahead and get my uppers as long as I can, then get to tacking and cutting lower mounts for a few days until i figure it out.

I just dont want to end up with something I cant adjust out because i tried getting a few extra inches of lift.
 

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oh no doubt man-id never call ya stupid thats what this shit is suppose to be for exept a few smart fuckers that know it all on here its a good place to ask questions-just look in like truckin magazine or something like that they sell the 4 link weld in kits(triangulated ajustable)that would be your best bet unless u can fab up some nice tube ones and mounts ya know-hope it goes good for ya :cool:
 

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Here is how we did the 4 Link in an S10. Hope this helps out a little bit. The rods we used were 1" cold rolled steel. If you are gonna put it through some abuse I would go with 1 1/2" cold rolled.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
how much does the pinion change on that s-10 and what kidn of lift does it get? its real close to what I'm trying to come up with ecept i cant mount anything above the pumkin (for floor reasons)

but just pics like that help out alot.

At this point I'm trying to decide wether i want to drop 450 bucks into a solid kit or come up with my own...
 

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The truck got about 12" lift cause of the chains, it would get all 16 and still drive. The pinion angle was off a little, but not so much you couldnt drive. We had about $180 in that 4 link with the rod ends and bars and all. No to mention it had a nasty ass 3 wheel. :biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
:) I'm digging that. I was wondering if you could still 3 good with the top bars going inward at the frame. If you can remember, how long are your uppers from bolt center to center? The design I'm looking at right now gives me length around 15-16" wich i think will be good.
 

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If you can give me a week I can get you exact measurments. Im in Nevada right now and the truck is in Sout Carolina. Here is decent picture of the 3.
 
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