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Discussion Starter #1
Heres the deal, I am running the powerstroke 15" and a rockford BD1000. All my wiring is upgraded (the big 3) with 4 awg wire and excellent connections..

I do have the stock battery still (It is under warranty) and will be replaced soon (by Mitsubishi). So I cant really do much there....

Alternator is a stock 110A alternator... puts out a continous 13.8V and 13.35 when the amp is cranked..

Car stalls when im idling though. I am thinking I just need a battery with more CCA, considering the voltage is not the issue of the stall, 13.35V and stalls... gotta be cca right?

And I do not want a capacitor so dont suggest it (noob's) and I cannot find a stronger alternator...

I am not paying the $330 price for a Excessive Amperage custom alternator..

Any suggestions? Or is my battery idea the right direction?
 

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1. upgrade to 0ga wiring under the hood and make sure you have good connections


2. get a strong battery.... the factory one wont cut it

3. get your alternator tested... 110amps should be enough (test the voltage at the batt and the amp with the car idling)


depending on how things pan out you will either have to stop being a cheapass and get a bigger alt or a smaller system...
 

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or add a battery to your system...like an optima yellow top
 

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Originally posted by EazyE10286@Aug 24 2006, 06:09 PM~6035452
or add a battery to your system...like an optima yellow top
some ppl do run dual batt setups with iso and 0 or 2 awg big 3 upgrade and can run a 2500wRMS system fine on a 120-130alt, but if your alt is in the process of takinga crap, then it doesnt matter how many batts you strap to it, your alt AND batts will just take a crap together...

i dont know if more cold cranking amps (cca) on a batt will do the job... if its as str8 forward as the name, once the car is cranked up, i dont know if cca even matters after that... would like to know though! (stares at brahma brian)

i would do like pitbull said and do the big 3 upgrade and get a strong batt, see what happens...
 

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Originally posted by EazyE10286@Aug 24 2006, 06:09 PM~6035452
or add a battery to your system...like an optima yellow top
adding a second battery wont do shit if his current system isnt up to par.... actually all it will do is cause the alternator to fail faster due to it bein an extra load :uh:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Originally posted by Sporty@Aug 24 2006, 05:06 PM~6035895
some ppl do run dual batt setups with iso and 0 or 2 awg big 3 upgrade and can run a 2500wRMS system fine on a 120-130alt, but if your alt is in the process of takinga crap, then it doesnt matter how many batts you strap to it, your alt AND batts will just take a crap together...

i dont know if more cold cranking amps (cca) on a batt will do the job... if its as str8 forward as the name, once the car is cranked up, i dont know if cca even matters after that... would like to know though! (stares at brahma brian)

i would do like pitbull said and do the big 3 upgrade and get a strong batt, see what happens...

Yea big 3 upgraded to 4 guage already, excellent connectors... and my only real try is going to be to go with a new yellowtop, and possibly a new amp.

I am not forking over the $$ for a custom alt if I am not competing, it is a daily.

I will just not crank it or limit when I use it cranked, I just wanted to see other opinions on alternatives.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Originally posted by Pitbullx@Aug 24 2006, 10:35 AM~6033044
1.  upgrade to 0ga wiring under the hood and make sure you have good connections
2. get a strong battery.... the factory one wont cut it

3. get your alternator tested... 110amps should be enough (test the voltage at the batt and the amp with the car idling)
depending on how things pan out you will either have to stop being a cheapass and get a bigger alt or a smaller system...

It does a full 110A Under load, already tested that first

It hold over 13.8V idle, 13.35 under load (as stated earlier)

Big 3 are upgraded

Stock batt is 550 CCA I believe, so thats why I am going to attempt a yellowtop.

And I dont know if you have seen a mistsubishi under the hood, let alone a Eclipse GTS but there is no extra room for custom brackets and mounts etc, your option would be having a custom one built for you, or do not upgrade the alternator.

I think given the facts above, the alternator is not the issue, it appears to be the battery losing amperage.
 

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If you are going to replace your stock battery, dont put a yellowtop in its place, use a red top. Yellowtops arent necessarily made for starting.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Originally posted by Brahma Brian@Aug 25 2006, 04:23 AM~6039656
Or he could use a good battery...  ;)

Elaborate brian ;)
 

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Yeah i get them for 50 all day.

And to Brahma, i dont need your advice, if you have any input give it to the guy that is asking about it. Im not here to argue about what is best, Im gonna give the guy the advice he is looking for. And dont wink at me.
 

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Originally posted by Brahma Brian@Aug 25 2006, 11:36 AM~6040988
Optima batteries suck ass wind for the price...  :cheesy:
g31's are nice :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Originally posted by Pitbullx@Aug 25 2006, 07:28 PM~6044731
g31's are nice :cool:

Yes but the group 31's I had were 1200 CCA but considered deep cell batteries...

I dont know how fit they would be for continous drain from a amp...

Obviously they perform well>?
 

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what people need to realize is that it's all about what an alternator puts out AT IDLE. I have a 160 amp alternator that I had custom built specifically for my cadillac. It'll put out 160 amps, but at idle it only puts out 110. Which is very impressive for any alternator.

People that buy those "high-output" 250 amp alternators don't understand that you're not going to be idling the engine at 5000 RPM. so you won't be getting 250a out of it constantly. also in my experience the 'higher amp' alternator you get, the less it puts out at idle. you have to find that happy medium, which i found with my 160amp beast
 

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Originally posted by JUICEDEXPL@Aug 25 2006, 03:08 PM~6042170
And to Brahma, i dont need your advice, if you have any input give it to the guy that is asking about it.  Im not here to argue about what is best, Im gonna give the guy the advice he is looking for. And dont wink at me.
I don't recall giving you any advice... ;)

I gave HIM my advice... ;)

I wasn't arguing homie, don't flatter yourself... ;)

;)
 

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Originally posted by impalabuilder.com@Aug 25 2006, 02:59 PM~6043409
where are you getting them for 50$? new?!?
X20829803469276!
 

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Originally posted by Stealth@Aug 26 2006, 09:14 AM~6047032
what people need to realize is that it's all about what an alternator puts out AT IDLE.  I have a 160 amp alternator that I had custom built specifically for my cadillac.  It'll put out 160 amps, but at idle it only puts out 110.  Which is very impressive for any alternator.

People that buy those "high-output" 250 amp alternators don't understand that you're not going to be idling the engine at 5000 RPM.  so you won't be getting 250a out of it constantly.  also in my experience the 'higher amp' alternator you get, the less it puts out at idle.  you have to find that happy medium, which i found with my 160amp beast
thats a good point, but most people change to a smaller pulley to get more rpm's on their alternator so they have an higher output at idle.
 
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