Low batts, bad connection, bad ground.....
Bad Solenoid
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The Science of Hydraulic Suspension
You need a continuity tester.
Probe on either side of each solenoid and have someone tap the switch for you.
If it BEEBS before tapping the switch = STUCK CLOSED/BAD
if it never beebs = STUCK OPEN/BAD
If it only beebs when you tap the switch = GOOD
It only takes one stuck open noid to stop the electricity from flowing to your motors.
Originally posted by Volv_lo@Aug 16 2005, 06:46 AM~3634076
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The Science of Hydraulic Suspension
You need a continuity tester.
Probe on either side of each solenoid and have someone tap the switch for you.
If it BEEBS before tapping the switch = STUCK CLOSED/BAD
if it never beebs = STUCK OPEN/BAD
If it only beebs when you tap the switch = GOOD
It only takes one stuck open noid to stop the electricity from flowing to your motors.
"Beebs" = :roflmao:
Anyways......going off of this statement "Probe on either side of each solenoid and have someone tap the switch for you. "
Are you referrring to testing all three noids in a series. Another words putting one probe on the noid on the far right, and the other probe on the far left OR one probe on the S and one probe on the I and testing them individually?
I thought that's what you meant but it's early and I might have been off track
Its also a good idea to periodically check to see if one or more of the noids gets stuck as NC (Normally Closed). Typically, they are NO (Normally Open) meaning that hitting the switch causes them to close and connect batt power to the motor. But, you will notice 1 or 2 sometimes will get stuck CLOSED (mechanically, not electrically) and you'll be basically running off of 1 of the 3 in series, then its time to swap a few out
You do this test by simply checking continuity accross the noid being tested, it should be open.
You do this test by simply checking continuity accross the noid being tested, it should be open.
Originally posted by Volv_lo@Aug 16 2005, 05:46 AM~3634076
![]()
The Science of Hydraulic Suspension
You need a continuity tester.
Probe on either side of each solenoid and have someone tap the switch for you.
If it BEEBS before tapping the switch = STUCK CLOSED/BAD
if it never beebs = STUCK OPEN/BAD
If it only beebs when you tap the switch = GOOD
It only takes one stuck open noid to stop the electricity from flowing to your motors.
Okay here's the deal....I jumped the solenoids and when I connected the two on the right the motor started spinning. When I hooked up the two on the left it just clicked...this means that the far left one is the bad solenoid...right??
was thinking the same thing... i had a flash back of when someone on here use to draw their diagrams out in Paint
... still got the message across though...-qs
:0Originally posted by CuttieBuddie@Aug 16 2005, 09:52 PM~3638934
was thinking the same thing... i had a flash back of when someone on here use to draw their diagrams out in Paint
-qs
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