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Discussion Starter #1
I have two l7 15s in ported boxes and it is so bad all you can hear on the outside is rateling though. Im looking into geting a sound deadnor and i was wondering what i should get i dont want the spray on stuf eather. I might get dynomat. any other suggestions.
 

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Sound deadening isn't designed for eliminating rattles. While it probably will get rid of a few, the only real way to get rid of rattle is to tighten whatever parts are moving. First, make sure all screws are tight. Then locate the source of the noise. I use a lot of double-sided padded tape, and sometimes, add screws to panels. One major source of extra noise is from the licence plate. If tightening it doesn't help, you will have to put something between the body, plate, and frame ( i.e. sticky tape) to stop the vibration. Sometimes, I have had to stuff felt and even silicone behind tail lights.
 

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is there any way to get the bass to travel through to the car instead of being stuck in the trunk? like... cutting something behind the seat or something?
 

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bolt the box to the car. Perferable to anykind of solid piece of metal (frame) you can. That way it vibrates and sends the bass out for a couple blocks.
 

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Originally posted by Stealth@Sep 21 2003, 12:32 PM
is there any way to get the bass to travel through to the car instead of being stuck in the trunk? like... cutting something behind the seat or something?
port it through the rear deck. no bass would be lost in your trunk and 100% of it will be in the cabin of the vehicle
 

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also if you planned on using dynamat after finding all your rattles get the stuff they use for roofing....its the same stuff just a whole hell of a lot cheaper...just check a building supply store and describe it to them and they will point you in the right direction
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I do have these boxes bolted down to the car. My ports and subs are pointing up towards the trunk lid.any other sugestions.
 

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ports are going right into one of the biggest rattles known lol....trunks have all sorts of shit that can rattle in them...cut it up enough to rattle and kill every rattle you find..its a bitch
 

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fiberglass and mould it in ...that should stop flexing and give more spl ... as for the first step check your trunk lid is still tight to the reinforcing panel inside ...

one or two cans of caulk and a new trunk seal couldn't hurt ..
 

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another easy way to rid your ride of rattles is if you have the clips that hold on like you door pannels and shit like that you should take the part off and take a foam strip wrap it around the clip and duct tape around the clip and foam it works wonders and is real cheap. i have had problems with rattles so i tried it and it really works no rattles from that part. i worked for me hopefully this helps. :puffin: :guns: :ugh:
 

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Originally posted by Stealth@Sep 21 2003, 11:32 AM
is there any way to get the bass to travel through to the car instead of being stuck in the trunk? like... cutting something behind the seat or something?
hey homie if you have a coupe like i do,
you take off your back seat and take off this black insulation
that separates your trunk and your back seat and the bass will
be way better hopes this helps

brian

p s the gas tank lid on the coupes makes some mean rattles
some pluming clay takes care of that
 

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Originally posted by 1ofaknd+Sep 21 2003, 04:03 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (1ofaknd @ Sep 21 2003, 04:03 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--Stealth@Sep 21 2003, 12:32 PM
is there any way to get the bass to travel through to the car instead of being stuck in the trunk?  like... cutting something behind the seat or something?
port it through the rear deck. no bass would be lost in your trunk and 100% of it will be in the cabin of the vehicle[/b][/quote]
yup, thats what i got... and its BEAUTIFUL
 

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Expanding foam from Home depot.
That's what I sprayed in between the frame of my trunk lid and it
hasn't rattled a peep since. The only problem was that I closed the trunk and didn't watch to see how far it would expand... (see where I'm goin with this?) anyway, it expanded around the trunk lock cylinder and I had to have the lock replaced.
Price of the expanding foam from Home depot: $10.00 (three cans)
Price for having trunk lock drilled and replaced: $40.00
Price for having that annoying ass rattling go away: PRICELE$$
;)
 

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Where's the rattle? First the thing I have always done as an installer on any car is to remove all interior and then I personally like extreme dynomat for all of the door skins,trunk skin,floor,roof,and im talking every inch accept where panels go back on at. But it can be costly. another alternative is roofing tar from homedepot, its about 15.00 dollars for 5 gallons just have to be careful not to get on you or the exterior...hope that helps
 

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Originally posted by K-co Jones@Oct 10 2003, 05:42 PM
Expanding foam from Home depot.
That's what I sprayed in between the frame of my trunk lid and it
hasn't rattled a peep since. The only problem was that I closed the trunk and didn't watch to see how far it would expand... (see where I'm goin with this?) anyway, it expanded around the trunk lock cylinder and I had to have the lock replaced.
Price of the expanding foam from Home depot: $10.00 (three cans)
Price for having trunk lock drilled and replaced: $40.00
Price for having that annoying ass rattling go away: PRICELE$$
;)
if you use the great stuff expanding foam it can expand alot and cause flexing and or dents in the panels. But if u use this dap expanding foam it doesnt expand as much
 
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