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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok well i decided to put my 2 more 15's in the back chamber of my huge ass box, and i'm cutting the front chamber and making it a couch. the 2 15's i have in the chamber now cause that chamber to flex. what are my options as for bracing? I seen some talk about using threaded rod but how does that help i don't fully get the concept.
 

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use small sections of 2x4 or double up on your layers of panels. ... or at best, redo the install out of 1" thick birch, that shit WONT flex, plus its water/air tight. not cheap but best wood for building cabs out of. i've seen all sorts of tricks for deadening and SPL applications... red clay in A/B pillars, sprayfoam in doors/trunks/etc. even diamondplate and concrete filler strengthening boxes. even used 2x2 box steel to keep ceilings from flexing. if it moves, it absorbs sound pressure.
 

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Originally posted by hearseballa@Sep 10 2006, 09:41 PM~6144491
ok the rod thing makes sence now. how think should i go like the same thinkness as a bic pen work? and also should i use the widest washers i can find? and have no clue about the strut brace
I'd do 1/2 inch or larger, 3/4 is the common for large box surfaces...

Yes, large flat washers and lock washers should be used...
 

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steel plates with allthread at each corner would do pretty damn good. plus you could strengthen it more without stressing one small area out. also gives you a surface to make it airtight once more, like with BeatsTheNails or Liquid Nails for that matter. also, coat your cabinet with thompson's water seal to make sure moisture and air dont seep.
 

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Originally posted by GrandPrixOnThree@Sep 10 2006, 10:20 PM~6144798
steel plates with allthread at each corner would do pretty damn good. plus you could strengthen it more without stressing one small area out. also gives you a surface to make it airtight once more, like with BeatsTheNails or Liquid Nails for that matter. also, coat your cabinet with thompson's water seal to make sure moisture and air dont seep.
it's ported :0
 
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