LayItLow.com Lowrider Forums banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
as most know, im still rolling with a single 05CompVr 12" kicker behind the seats...

the truck wedge im rocking with now measurements are:

the volume of the sealed box is 1.25cuft

26.5(width).....9.5(height 1).....6.25(height 2)........13(depth).......3/4(wood thickness)




i want to build a 2.25cuft sealed enclosure with these demensions


42(width).....9.5(height 1).....6.25(height 2)........15(depth).......3/4(wood thickness)


the specs on the sub are as followed:

sensitivity..........86.5dB
Vas(liters).........95.37
Fs(Hz)...............26.1
Qts...................0.527

im not sure how to go about saying how a sealed box would sound just going off of its measurements, any comments or suggestions would help... i want a bigger and polyfil isnt cutting it at all...

and no i CANT go ported, i dont believe in tube porting, and i dont have enough space to do a slot vented enclosure...(plus accuracy and SQ over SPL is my goal)


-qs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by quadmasta@Aug 18 2005, 10:51 PM~3654247
Why can't you fit a slot port in there?
the deepest box that will fit behind my seats would be 6.25(top depth), and 9.5 (bottom depth)...

also with the slot vent, you cant have anything in the way of the vent within however many inches related to the port lenth... it wouldnt work unless the port is firing from the top...the box would be surrounded in leaned back "backrest", seat, and side panels....

-qs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Originally posted by 1ofaknd@Aug 18 2005, 10:58 PM~3654280
port it out the side maybe
in the rear, from panel to panel, the max. amount of space is 59"... even with a 38" wide box, when its centered i have 10.8 inches on each side left... the thing is, is that my kicker ks's are housed in the rear panel about 4 inches off of the cabin floor... if i have a vent blasting at them, they are not gonna perform well AT ALL...i had to wrap my doors in the shiny stuff just so that the coaxils behave with just the sealed, i dont know what i would have to do if a vent is within a foot infront of it, blasting at it...

also, my amp does 460x1RMS, if i port the kicker, it cuts the powerhandling of the sub down to 300watts(atleast thats what the manuel tells me)...i am positive that somewhere along the line, i will turn it up a tad too much for a tad too long and i will have a melt down...

but i wanna stay sealed for this one, im sure if i REALLY wanted the box ported, you guys would prolly get together and draw something up and it would work, but i want this box sealed....

thanks for the thoughts though..

-qs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
562 Posts
Originally posted by CuttieBuddie@Aug 18 2005, 09:15 PM~3654363
in the rear, from panel to panel, the max. amount of space is 59"... even with a 38" wide box, when its centered i have 10.8 inches on each side left... the thing is, is that my kicker ks's are housed in the rear panel about 4 inches off of the cabin floor... if i have a vent blasting at them, they are not gonna perform well AT ALL...i had to wrap my doors in the shiny stuff just so that the coaxils behave with just the sealed, i dont know what i would have to do if a vent is within a foot infront of it, blasting at it...

also, my amp does 460x1RMS, if i port the kicker, it cuts the powerhandling of the sub down to 300watts(atleast thats what the manuel tells me)...i am positive that somewhere along the line, i will turn it up a tad too much for a tad too long and i will have a melt down...

but i wanna stay sealed for this one, im sure if i REALLY wanted the box ported, you guys would prolly get together and draw something up and it would work, but i want this box sealed....

thanks for the thoughts though..

-qs
The vent doesn't have to be straight. You can have the vent drop in from the top of the box and then curve onto the bottom of the box.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,562 Posts
i have a side ported box with a L7 sounds good
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Originally posted by quadmasta@Aug 19 2005, 07:43 AM~3655924
The vent doesn't have to be straight.  You can have the vent drop in from the top of the box and then curve onto the bottom of the box.
okay, i see your view on this, but what do i do about the powerhandling dropping from 400w to 300w and still running an amp that does 460w(in reality probably only 400w) ???

if i were to port it, i would need 1.75cuft, and a port that is 2.5"x12.5" and 20" long...

if i wrap/snail the port, there are a couple different areas it can fire from (top, above the sub woofer firing in the same direction, below the sub firing in the same direction, or on either side of the sub woofer firing in the same direction)

if you got a good idea of how to get around the powerhandling issue (without saying "buy another amp") then im game for the compact ported enclosure...

-qs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by 1ofaknd@Aug 19 2005, 12:23 PM~3656702
turn the gain down....problem solved.
hmmm, never thought of that...

firing from the top would prolly yeild best results right? the sub enclosure will be pressed against the rear wall and the vent would fire against the rear panel alongside the rear windshield(hopefully hitting the head liner and just distributing out towards the front windshield)..


some how this question was turned frow a "how will it sound" to a "sealed or ported"... even now with the new "ported" idea presented, are the demensions to the enclosure "too radical"? is the enclosure "proportioned" enough to go hand and hand with the sub and perform well>?

-qs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
alright, i came up with a new lay out...

outer demensions...
45(width).....9.5(height 1).....6.25(height 2)........14(depth).......3/4(wood thickness)



that will give me a volume of roughly 1.75cuft after port & driver displacement...

the port will drop in from the top (in the center), run down the back panel, and curve out 6" on to the bottom panel... that means that the opening of the port (from the inside) would only be a lil more then 2" away from the front panel (is that acceptable? or in other words, do i need to map out another port layout?)

-qs
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top