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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys heard alot of good stuff about this website, figured i'd come and get some help here. I got a 1967 Lincoln Continental(suicide doors, to give an idea for some who don't know what one looks like, big metal boat, with lots of room on the inside)

I am starting with the interior and moving to the trunk, my first and most important thing is the interior speakers, i love clearity in speakers. I lisn to all type of music, instrumental (flute, drums, clarinet, sax) some r&b.

I currently have two brand new amps from Phoenix Gold "XENON" series:
x100.4
x200.4

My Component Options are as Follow.

DLS MS6
ID Chameleon
Diamond Hex
Focal PolyGlass K3's
JL XR's
Alpine Type X
Adire Koda

Then my Second Question was when i'm putting up the top of the line from a certain brand to the step right below, like Alpine Type X vs. Alpine Type R's how big of a diff do i notice?

I hope i provided enough info.

As far as subs and amp go, i will put that together later on down the road, but the amp i would imagine be somewhere between 800 to 1000 watts.
 

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Do yourself a favor and go listen to each of those speakers and make your own decision. You seem to have pretty good taste in speakers so don't go and do something stupid and buy shitty subs :) Don't listen to what someone else thinks about speakers you're going to listen to all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by quadmasta@Aug 18 2005, 07:26 PM~3654058
Do yourself a favor and go listen to each of those speakers and make your own decision.  You seem to have pretty good taste in speakers so don't go and do something stupid and buy shitty subs :)  Don't listen to what someone else thinks about speakers you're going to listen to all the time.
Thats a good point, the thing is, out of 20+ components that i've listened too these are the once i narrowed it down to, all of those i like, i just wanted peoples imput(once that dealt whith atleast one of these comps) to let me know the good and the bad that they KNOW of .... i should of specified i didn't want people just guessin, i would appreciate help from once that have owned a pair of my top choices.
 

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Originally posted by Scorpion@Aug 18 2005, 08:30 PM~3654090
Thats a good point,  the thing is, out of 20+ components that i've listened too these are the once i narrowed it down to, all of those i like, i just wanted peoples imput(once that dealt whith atleast one of these comps) to let me know the good and the bad that they KNOW of .... i should of specified i didn't want people just guessin, i would appreciate help from once that have owned a pair of my top choices.
I've only heard the Hex and the Focals. Both sounded awesome. In my opinion if you take JL and Alpine out of those, you can't go wrong.
 

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DLS MS6 - I've never heard them
ID Chameleon - midbass (6.5) tweets ( 9.5) 60hz up
Diamond Hex - midbass (6) tweets (8) 65hz up
Focal PolyGlass K3's never heard - nut I KNOW tweets are HARSH
JL XR's - midbass (3.5) tweets (7)
Alpine Type X midbass (6.5) tweets (8) 60hz up
Adire Koda midbass ( 9 ) tweets (5) tweets are VERY laid back 50hz up

Also if you dont know how to install them on baffles and make it airtight and deaden the door properly midbass will be lacking anyways , even on the higher rated ones .

If you were to step down from type-x's to type-r's the difference would suck
if you've never heard either , type-R's aren't bad at all
Type-X's handle about 150 rms of clean power ( no clipping ) so skip their rating in general . Hezes about 200 rms , chameleons about 175 rms
Koda about 150-200 depending how well you set the amp up ( how clean power is ) and if no added artificial bass boost is added and crossovers aren't set TOO low
The hex and the XR JL use the same LPG made tweet
Chameleons use a VERY similar tweet to the Max-Fidelity I run ( made by max-fi )
BADASS tweets !
I like ID chams cause you can get the 2 ohm version and pull more power from your 2 ch amp or if you run them active , pull more power for mids and leave tweets running 80-100 watts safely and a little more laid back

~~ Question for you though - you have 2 4 channel amps why ? - are you going to bridge it or run your components active ? 2 sets ? 1 front 1 back ?
If so I would go with the chameleons and run them active . Run the tweets with the 100.4 and the gains set lower than normal and the midbass with the 200.4 gains set lower . cross tweets over hpf about 2500-2700 and mids bandpass x-over at 60hz lp and 200 hz lower than your tweet hpf
 

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I'd take Alpine Type-X, I dunno if Alpine is designing or even making them, but they are EXTREAMLY good quality for the money. $200 bucks on ebay get you a nice set. The x-over they come with is also setup so you can use seperate amps for the mid and tweet, that's just bad ass...... (meaning you don't have to use the AMPs or any thing more inferior to seperate the tweets and midbass, this is what Papi means by active)

If you used your amps to power them all seperatly, that'd be tight. (active)

If you don't have a good place for a tweeter the ID's with horns work surprizingly well, it's odd but they work. I would rather use Type X over the ID's unless you go with a horn version for no mounting tweet reason.

If you want to get crazy do the Alpine Type X with seperate amplifcation of the tweets and midbass, put them in kicks or some thing, and then get some midbass specific speakers, 8 inchers...... Make a 3 way! You could have POWERFUL midbass using a good 8 inch and dedicating one of those amplifers to them.... Midbass rocks if you like stuff other then rap.

(Type R sucks)

Headroom never hurts on your highs! :)

If you place the front speakers well, putting in back ones just destroys the sound stage, don't bother. Who cares about any one but you, aim those speakers in the kicks at your temples.
 

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I too would've mentioned soundstage issues and rear speakers but he has two 4 channel amps so I'm sure he is planning on doing spkrs in front and rear regardless of what anyone tries to tell him otherwise .
CastAway - active is not using crossovers at all . The way Alpine has their xovers set up to accept input for high/mid seperately is called passive bi-amping , not active by any means
 

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Originally posted by Papi_J@Aug 27 2005, 12:48 AM~3700196
I too would've mentioned soundstage issues and rear speakers but he has two 4 channel amps so I'm sure he is planning on doing spkrs in front and rear regardless of what anyone tries to tell him otherwise .
CastAway - active is not using crossovers at all . The way Alpine has their xovers set up to accept input for high/mid seperately is called passive bi-amping , not active by any means
Er, ok. I suppose I butchered that explination. Active uses the amplifiers crossovers (active crossover, it's powered), so actaully you are using crossovers. He doesn't have to use the ones on the amplifier. To clarify when you say active, I don't think he realizes you mean seperate amp channels per driver, and the amplifiers active crossover (you didn't even mention that). I know perfectly well you wouldn't try to run tweeters and midbass full range frequencies, out of both..... so saying no crossover at all doesn't make sense.

I don't know about the amps, but if you can just plane turn off the crossover, I'd take the passive crossover for the alpine Type X in this case. I'd rather not mess with the signal, pre amplification. Particularly when the crossover is designed for the speakers and will feature a nice roll off. Most componets cross overs don't offer this feature.... I'm going to assume you can't turn the active crossover on the amp off, I'd just set for the midbass where ever you are going to have the subwoofers take over or the larger midbass if you went that route, make the alpine's midbass a midrange. Unfortunatly no way around using active crossover on the amp in that situation, however for the tweets I'd want zero interpherance between them and the midrange/bass via active crossover on the amp. Also with out using the passive crossover you may need some thing to limit the frequencies up to where the tweeter takes over..... That is unless you want to depend on the natural roll off being amazing of the midbass/range, but you'll probably just get some crappy attempts at bass beats. This is of course unless the amplifier allows a hi and low crossover point. If it has a crossover for both your set. However I'd still prefer the nice roll off crossover points of the passive with the alpine set.
 
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