the last thing you do is put the rim in the kit. First the rim is glued on the inner lip of the rim so that the shell sticks to it! Let it dry for a couple of days and then on the back of the rim we welded a small metal bracket that was longer than the rim. So say the back of the rim lip to lip is 14 inches long then the metal piece is about 30 inches or so long. Bend the remaining bracket down into the back of the shell once welded in. So after the lip it will bend down and we curled the tips and bent it to the inner back of the shell of the kit. This puts pressure on the back of the shell which really keeps the shell firmly on the back of the lip of the rim! then make a custom locking devise that mounts to your bumper. In most cases will have to cut your back bumper so the rim sits down in place!
1) YOU HAVE TO TAKE THE KIT APART. WHEN YOU HAVE REMOVED THE HUB CAP OUT OF THE FIBERGLASS SHELL, YOU 2) CUT A HOLE FOR THE RIM TO FIT.
IF YOU ARE USING A 13 OR A 14 INCH RIM YOU MUST CUT THE BACK OF THE RIM OFF APPROX. 1 INCH FROM THE BACK OF THE SPOKES.
3) TAKE SOME FLAT STEEL AND MAKE A BAR THAT RUNS ACROSS THE BACK OF THE KIT AND RUN A BOLT THROUGH EACH END OF THE BAR INTO THE KIT.
4) NOW YOU HAVE A BAR TO BOLT ON THE ADAPTER FOR THE WHEEL.
5) YOU ALSO NEED TO TAKE MORE FLAT STEEL AND BEND BRACKETS THAT GO FROM THE TO BOLTS YOU JUST INSTALLED, STRAIGHT DOWN THE BACK OF THE KIT TO THE TWO LOWER HOLES ON EACH SIDE OF THE BOTTOM OF THE FIBERGLASS SHELL....NOW YOU HAVE SUPPORT FOR THE WHEEL WEIGHT.
6) YOU NOW ARE READY TO BOLT IN THE WHEEL, NOTE; YOU MIGHT HAVE TO USE SPACERS BETWEEN THE BACK BAR AND THE ADAPTER FOR PROPER WHEEL ALIGHNMENT.
Now For The Base
FIRST THERE IS A BRACKET THAT ANGLES UPWARD THAT HELD THE STOCK LATCH ASSEMBLY. YOU NEED TO CUT THIS OFF AT THE BASE.
NOW YOU NEED TO MOUNT THE BASE ONTO THE VEHICLE TO FINISH THIS.
ONCE THE BASE IS MOUNTED, BOLT THE FIBERGLASS SHELL BACK ONTO THE KIT. NOW YOU WILL NOTICE THAT WHEN YOU TRY TO FLIP THE KIT UP, IT HITS THE BAR THAT RUNS ACCROSS THE BASE. YOU NEED TO NOTCH THIS SO THAT YOU HAVE WHEEL CLEARANCE. IF EVERYTHING IS GONG WELL, YOUR KIT WILL NOW CLOSE. IF IT DOES NOT?
DEPENDING ON THE VEHICLE......YOU MIGHT ALSO HAVE TO NOTCH THE BUMPER FOR WHEEL CLEARANCE, NOW IT SHOULD CLOSE.
FROM HERE ITS GUESS WORK, DEPENDING ON YOUR VEHICLE, YOU NEED TO CONSTRUCT A LATCH ASSEMBLY, I CANT REALLY TELL YOU HOW TO DO IT BECAUSE EVERY VEHICLE IS DIFFERENT.
I HAVE HERE A E&G CONTINENTAL KIT LIKE NEW NEVER BEEN MOUNTED ON ANYTHING HAS CLOTH AROUND THE CHROME LOOKS AND SHINES GOOD THE BACK UP LIGTH PERFECT.HAS THE ELECTRIC WIRE FOR THE TRUNK.
NEEDS TO GO,ALL GOOD OFFERS ARE WELCOME THE HIGHEST POSTER GETS TO TAKE IT.BUT I REALLY WOULD LIKE TO GET...
I'm kind a new to this wheel/tire thing so got to ask something that might be basics, also living outside of US and lowriders not so common here.
I got '76 Coupe Deville which is a 5000+ lbs car so that's 1250 for a wheel. Also got 14x7 daytons with reverse offsets that I need tires...