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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
63 impala
Yesterday i was showing the car to a friend and opened / closed the top a few times then later i tried to close the top and it just wont close.

It starts to close but only goes up a few inches then struggles and wont go any more. still can hear the motor trying to close it.

Had a look at the motor but because the tops down and the difficult the motors are in the 63s its not the easiest to work on.

There is a oil leak but i dont know where from.

ive read on here that u can buy a rebuild kit but i cant seem to find where from.

What ID LIKE TO KNOW IS:

Where can i get a rebuild kit ( which i guess would only be a few O rings)
How can i know what type of oil is currently in the pump (DOT 3 brake fluid or ATF) or should i just empty it then refill.
HOW DO I REFILL IT.?
From here?
Auto part Pipe Muffler Exhaust system Automotive exhaust


or here?
Auto part Rim Automotive wheel system Wheel
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also i need to close the top ASAP. how can i close it NOW?
 

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Dot 3 is clear and ATF is red in fluid color. There is a plug on the pump to fill the fluid. If you need to close ASAP you can hit the vert button to close position and have someone help pull it up to close or disconnect the T-line at the pump to void the vacuum pressure and manually pull it closed. The oil leak is where your problem is causing loss in pressure or fluid to push. You need to locate the leak and see if its the cylinders or the hoses or the fittings leaking.
 

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I had a problem like this also and mine was just low on fluid. I had a very small leak that comes from one of the fittings on the motor. After I sealed it up I used a turkey baster to suck up the atf that I used and then push it in the hole where you took the bolt out of. I used atf because brake fluid smells, like brakes of course. After you fill it up you need to put a towel or something to catch the fuild that comes out of the hole when you move you top up and down a couple of times to get any air out of the system and then bolt it back up and check you top and you should be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Anybody know how much oil I fill the motor up with? Because I turned the motor on it's side, that way I can fill all the way if need be
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I've filled it up full. But once I try to bleed the hoses the motor still pumps out oil+air, where is this air coming from!
IS MY MOTOR FUGGED
 

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I know you want to move the top up and down a couple of times to get the air out. With the pump mounted where its surpose to be if you have the bolt out where you filled it up at and move it up and down a few times untill the air and extra oil gets out. I think after I ran it up and down a few times I stopped it half way and then checked the oil to make sure it was at the bottom of the bolt hole I put the bolt back on , and then tighten it up and clean your mess up i used an old towel to catch the oil coming out of it, then check your top run it up and down make sure its ok. I did it this way and have not had another problem in a year so far
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I know you want to move the top up and down a couple of times to get the air out. With the pump mounted where its surpose to be if you have the bolt out where you filled it up at and move it up and down a few times untill the air and extra oil gets out. I think after I ran it up and down a few times I stopped it half way and then checked the oil to make sure it was at the bottom of the bolt hole I put the bolt back on , and then tighten it up and clean your mess up i used an old towel to catch the oil coming out of it, then check your top run it up and down make sure its ok. I did it this way and have not had another problem in a year so far
thanx but having the pump where its supposed to be, how do i keep the oil from leaking out?, because the bolts not holding the cap on.

thanx for the help
 

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get some air line ( i used fish aquarium clear hose) take one end and keep wrapping electricle tape around it making it larger in diameter and get it to were it fits into the pump opening on the side really tight. put the other end into your container of atf. cycle the top up and down several times. i would only go up and down a few times then wait a min. or two and do it again. that way you will keep the motor from getting to hot. This is the crude way to do it but it works. It will push and pull the atf fluid until it gets to the correct level
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Lol thanks.
I feel like an idiot. Doing things backwards.

It's making sense.

Thanx for the help
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Na. Gave it to guys who know what there doing.
Just pissing oil everywhere, and hard to reach. Takes too long.
I gave up
 
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63 impala
Yesterday i was showing the car to a friend and opened / closed the top a few times then later i tried to close the top and it just wont close.

It starts to close but only goes up a few inches then struggles and wont go any more. still can hear the motor trying to close it.

Had a look at the motor but because the tops down and the difficult the motors are in the 63s its not the easiest to work on.

There is a oil leak but i dont know where from.

ive read on here that u can buy a rebuild kit but i cant seem to find where from.

What ID LIKE TO KNOW IS:

Where can i get a rebuild kit ( which i guess would only be a few O rings)
How can i know what type of oil is currently in the pump (DOT 3 brake fluid or ATF) or should i just empty it then refill.
HOW DO I REFILL IT.?
From here?
View attachment 336158

or here?
View attachment 336161
I'm having the exact same problem with mine. No leaks I will check the fluid and go from there
 

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rollin-sixties
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Convertible Top Pump, cylinder and hose installation instructions


HOW IT WORKS
-Most modern cars use an electric motor to turn a hydraulic pump which supplies pressure to the lift cylinders located on each side of the car. The pump is usually located in the trunk area of the car and will most likely be held in place by 3 or 4 pointed grommets which push into holes in a bracket, the rubber grommets provide a cushion to reduce noise when raising and lowering the top. The pump assembly is a 1 piece unit that consists of an electric motor on one end, a small hydraulic pump in the middle and a fluid reservoir on the other end, the reservoir is held in place by a bolt that goes through the center of the reservoir into the pump, do not remove this bolt! To check the fluid level there will be a 'push in' rubber plug or a slotted screw in plug located on the end of the reservoir above the center line, the fluid level should be to the bottom of the hole when the top is in the down position. When you operate your top switch to make the top move, this turns on the electric motor and the pump will take fluid from the reservoir and pressurize it, it will push the fluid through the lines to the cylinders. The fluid goes to the cylinders (it enters the bottom of both cylinders to make the top go up or to the top of the cylinders to make the top go down) as the fluid enters one end of the cylinder the top will begin to move and fluid is pushed out of the opposite end of the cylinder and returns to the reservoir through the hose. The pump is capable of producing between 300-450 PSI depending on the type of pump and year of car so use caution.

FLUID-Most cars 1967 and newer use automatic transmission fluid, from 1962-67 they may have used either automatic transmission fluid or brake fluid. Brake fluid can be detected by its pungent odor and transmission fluid smells more like oil. Pre 1962 cars almost always came with brake fluid but should be checked because the type of fluid in the system may have been changed, mixing the types of fluid may result in parts failure. If you are replacing the complete system, the use of automatic transmission fluid is recommended, never use silicone brake fluid as this will void any guarantee.
NOTE-Pumps and cylinders purchased from Convertible Top Specialists may be filled with fluid, this fluid will either be Dextron III automatic transmission fluid or mineral hydraulic oil. The fluids are compatible with each other but not with brake fluid. The complete system holds approximately 1 1/2 to 2 quarts of fluid, use extreme caution if your system contains brake fluid as it can damage the paint on your car.
WARNING-Never totally fill your pump reservoir with fluid, fill until fluid runs out the filler hole or until the reservoir is approximately 3/4 full. A meat baster works good to fill your pump, just don't tell your wife you used her turkey baster as it can he hazardous to your health. If you are installing a new pump only, filling the pump reservoir 3/4 full and connecting the hoses and electrical connector should be all that is necessary. However after running the top up and down 2 times it is recommended that you check the fluid level with the top in the 'down' position, you can leave the plug out of the reservoir when testing the top operation as there is no pressure in the reservoir and this will help allow any air bubbles to escape. You should never run the top motor for more than 15-20 seconds at a time to prevent damage. Remember that the cylinders can exert over 1000 pounds of force and can cause considerable damage if you are not careful.
OUR CYLINDERS-For most 1963 and newer cars our top mounted cylinders are designed to be installed without the use of nylon bushings as used on many models, it is one less item to worry about and it results in a much smoother operation.
REPLACING CYLINDERS-Remove the old cylinder and install the new cylinder in its place. The new cylinder will have its piston in the 'retracted' or 'down' position therefore attaching it to the top frame will not be possible at this time. Operating the top pump will fill the cylinder with fluid and extend the piston rod until it can be attached to the top frame. While filling the cylinder the pump should only be operating about 15 seconds at a time to prevent overheating, check the fluid level at this time and refill if necessary. Leave the filler plug out and place a rag under the pump to catch any spillage until the unit is bled out and filled. The piston rod must be watched closely during this process to prevent damage. When the piston rod is extended to the proper position attach it to the top frame, you will now be raising the top frame as you are bleeding the system. The fluid level should be checked and refilled (if necessary) each time the top is returned to the down position. Running the top up and down 3-4 times will bleed the system and the filler plug may now be installed, assuming there are no additional problems your top will be in good working order.
 

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HOW IT WORKS
-Most modern cars use an electric motor to turn a hydraulic pump which supplies pressure to the lift cylinders located on each side of the car. The pump is usually located in the trunk area of the car and will most likely be held in place by 3 or 4 pointed grommets which push into holes in a bracket, the rubber grommets provide a cushion to reduce noise when raising and lowering the top. The pump assembly is a 1 piece unit that consists of an electric motor on one end, a small hydraulic pump in the middle and a fluid reservoir on the other end, the reservoir is held in place by a bolt that goes through the center of the reservoir into the pump, do not remove this bolt! To check the fluid level there will be a 'push in' rubber plug or a slotted screw in plug located on the end of the reservoir above the center line, the fluid level should be to the bottom of the hole when the top is in the down position. When you operate your top switch to make the top move, this turns on the electric motor and the pump will take fluid from the reservoir and pressurize it, it will push the fluid through the lines to the cylinders. The fluid goes to the cylinders (it enters the bottom of both cylinders to make the top go up or to the top of the cylinders to make the top go down) as the fluid enters one end of the cylinder the top will begin to move and fluid is pushed out of the opposite end of the cylinder and returns to the reservoir through the hose. The pump is capable of producing between 300-450 PSI depending on the type of pump and year of car so use caution.

FLUID-Most cars 1967 and newer use automatic transmission fluid, from 1962-67 they may have used either automatic transmission fluid or brake fluid. Brake fluid can be detected by its pungent odor and transmission fluid smells more like oil. Pre 1962 cars almost always came with brake fluid but should be checked because the type of fluid in the system may have been changed, mixing the types of fluid may result in parts failure. If you are replacing the complete system, the use of automatic transmission fluid is recommended, never use silicone brake fluid as this will void any guarantee.
NOTE-Pumps and cylinders purchased from Convertible Top Specialists may be filled with fluid, this fluid will either be Dextron III automatic transmission fluid or mineral hydraulic oil. The fluids are compatible with each other but not with brake fluid. The complete system holds approximately 1 1/2 to 2 quarts of fluid, use extreme caution if your system contains brake fluid as it can damage the paint on your car.
WARNING-Never totally fill your pump reservoir with fluid, fill until fluid runs out the filler hole or until the reservoir is approximately 3/4 full. A meat baster works good to fill your pump, just don't tell your wife you used her turkey baster as it can he hazardous to your health. If you are installing a new pump only, filling the pump reservoir 3/4 full and connecting the hoses and electrical connector should be all that is necessary. However after running the top up and down 2 times it is recommended that you check the fluid level with the top in the 'down' position, you can leave the plug out of the reservoir when testing the top operation as there is no pressure in the reservoir and this will help allow any air bubbles to escape. You should never run the top motor for more than 15-20 seconds at a time to prevent damage. Remember that the cylinders can exert over 1000 pounds of force and can cause considerable damage if you are not careful.
OUR CYLINDERS-For most 1963 and newer cars our top mounted cylinders are designed to be installed without the use of nylon bushings as used on many models, it is one less item to worry about and it results in a much smoother operation.
REPLACING CYLINDERS-Remove the old cylinder and install the new cylinder in its place. The new cylinder will have its piston in the 'retracted' or 'down' position therefore attaching it to the top frame will not be possible at this time. Operating the top pump will fill the cylinder with fluid and extend the piston rod until it can be attached to the top frame. While filling the cylinder the pump should only be operating about 15 seconds at a time to prevent overheating, check the fluid level at this time and refill if necessary. Leave the filler plug out and place a rag under the pump to catch any spillage until the unit is bled out and filled. The piston rod must be watched closely during this process to prevent damage. When the piston rod is extended to the proper position attach it to the top frame, you will now be raising the top frame as you are bleeding the system. The fluid level should be checked and refilled (if necessary) each time the top is returned to the down position. Running the top up and down 3-4 times will bleed the system and the filler plug may now be installed, assuming there are no additional problems your top will be in good working order.
good stuff
 

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Also dont recomend putting speakers on the back below the rear window panels. Pending size a guy had the same problem when he purcased a 64 with them on until I told him to remove them and it worked great right after. Also told him about the layitlow world:thumbsup:
 
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