LayItLow.com Lowrider Forums banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright I have a 83 Cutlass with the 307, and of a sudden it quit charging the battery. I noticed the CHARGE LIGHT come on, then it died. So i charged the batt right back up, put a load test and it was bad. I bought a new one and put it on, and it killed the batt again. I replaced the Alt, and that little clip cause it was all messed up. As soon as I turn the key on the charge light comes on, and of course it kills the batt again. I changed the wire's around and tried it again, this time the charge light dont come on, but it still kills the batt. So i bought a new batt and another alt, and still the same thing:( I put a volt meter on the the alt, and both times its only putting out about 12.5 V, then it starts falling and eventually dies! Everything is on nice and tight. And it still wont charge! has anybody had this problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
876 Posts
Alright I have a 83 Cutlass with the 307, and of a sudden it quit charging the battery. I noticed the CHARGE LIGHT come on, then it died. So i charged the batt right back up, put a load test and it was bad. I bought a new one and put it on, and it killed the batt again. I replaced the Alt, and that little clip cause it was all messed up. As soon as I turn the key on the charge light comes on, and of course it kills the batt again. I changed the wire's around and tried it again, this time the charge light dont come on, but it still kills the batt. So i bought a new batt and another alt, and still the same thing:( I put a volt meter on the the alt, and both times its only putting out about 12.5 V, then it starts falling and eventually dies! Everything is on nice and tight. And it still wont charge! has anybody had this problem?

Is the alternator new or used?? Also if the alternator is only putting out 12.5 Volts that means the alternator is bad you got to have a reading of 14 or more. let me know if it helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I took the alt back off and took it back to get it tested, and it tested fine. I have a a little oil on the the starter, so im gonna wash it off and make sure all my connections are good. Man if they are, im all out of idea's:confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,068 Posts
The starter isn't going to keep it from charging. If its only got battery voltage whether the engine is running or not, then either the alternator is bad or the connections are broken/corroded/ or not correct. You should have the plug for the dash light in the back, then a large wire from the positive on the battery to the big post on the altermator, then the other wire from the plug to the large post on the alternator.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,939 Posts
make sure the "hot" red wire from the rear of the alternator has continuity (currect from one end to the other). If this wire is erroded and not supplied with power from the battery, it will not ignite the internal regulator (diode trio) and the alternator will not charge the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
make sure the "hot" red wire from the rear of the alternator has continuity (currect from one end to the other). If this wire is erroded and not supplied with power from the battery, it will not ignite the internal regulator (diode trio) and the alternator will not charge the battery.
Im gonna check it out. I even ran a jumper wire from the pos post on the batt to the post on the back of the alt and still nothing. My ground is good, it just making me love the damn thing:mad:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,724 Posts
what ground is good? The ground from the back of the engine to the body? Might even be one from the battery to the engine too. If you test it and its not making power on your car but it definately is at the parts store then something aint grounded right. Never hurts to check all fuses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
what ground is good? The ground from the back of the engine to the body? Might even be one from the battery to the engine too. If you test it and its not making power on your car but it definately is at the parts store then something aint grounded right. Never hurts to check all fuses.
Its grounded to the engine, and i also grounded it to the body. I put a test light today on the wires on the clip, and the white wire is barley lighting up that test light. I bet my problom is gonna be in those two wires. I checked the fuses, there good. But thanks for all the info:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Okay I just took the whole instrument cluster out. I got the volt gauge to work some what, and still no charge. i noticed that when I ran a jumper wire from the ground on the volt gauge it would go up to 13. As soon as i took it off if would fall back to 8. I thought about running a jumper wire from the hot side to the ground, maby that would make a complete circuit. Fuck it im just gonna take it to a mechanic.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,724 Posts
gauges dont just need voltage or ohm readings from the sensors they also need power. My gas gauge wasnt working and using a wiring diagram i found out that gauge got its power from the transmission fuse. I checked that fuse and it was blown. Could be something like that with your gauge
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I fixed it. I took the starter off to make sure everything was good. And thier was a wire that was old and brittle. I replaced it and the light is off and its charging:rofl: Thank u all for helping me out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,068 Posts
I fixed it. I took the starter off to make sure everything was good. And thier was a wire that was old and brittle. I replaced it and the light is off and its charging:rofl: Thank u all for helping me out!
Was it the wire from starter to battery? Or from starter to distribution block, because those 2 wires should have a fusible link on them.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top