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WHATS THE BEST WAY TO GET THE FLAKE TO LAY DOWN EVEN AND NOT BLOCHY???
 

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Make sure that your air pressure is correct, and maintain an adequate speed while spraying it. Just fundamentals really. Personally, I think that it is really simple to do a flake paint job.

Oh yeah, hold the gun close to the body or whatever you are spraying. I'd say around 3 to 6 inches away.
 

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the worst thing that you want to do it to make flake lay down completely flat!!!! it will not sparkle as much as it should because it will only catch the light that will hit it straight on---and that does not happen to often..as far as making sure that it is evenly distributed yes you have to make sure that you have sprayed all panels uniformly........ as far as the psi that you use i use approx 45-60 psi at the most----usually towards the lower-----and as far as distance i "disagree" w/ locomaz---------3-6 inches is way to close----you will end up w/ runs as well as most of the flake boucing off of the panels-----the easiest way to figure distance is to extend you pinky and thumb to either side on both hands like you are doing a hang loose sign--and then put one pinky on the panel and the other on the first hands thumb----that should be the right distance from what ever you are spraying---for me it would be 10-14 inches from the panel--------and always keep you gun at 90 degrees from the panel------peace



Last edited by lowriderlife at Oct 23 2003, 07:41 AM
 

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I found the best way for '>ME<' is around 6 - 8 inches from the panel to the end of the nozzle tip and '<gradually>' building your coat over several passes to an eventual wet film so it's not layin it '>flat<' but lays it slightly into the clear on an '>angle<' ..
but like lowriderlife mentioned any sprayin is basically how uniform your spray pattern is set up and how uniform you spray the panels and also keep the flake well mixed ..



Last edited by sabre at Oct 24 2003, 01:26 PM
 

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Originally posted by lowriderlife@Oct 23 2003, 08:40 AM
and as far as distance i "disagree" w/ locomaz---------3-6 inches is way to close----you will end up w/ runs as well as most of the flake boucing off of the panels-----
Different strokes I guess. I have never had a problem with runs in flake. Actually, I never have a problem with runs because I make sure to never put on a full trigger pull which is most people's problem with runs. And, as far as I go, the farther away you are from your object the more that you are apt to get a dry spray. The trick with most paint types (in my experience) is to stay fairly close and to turn your fluid nozzle down. But, most of the time, there is more than one way to skin a cat. :biggrin: ;)



Last edited by locomaz at Oct 23 2003, 07:54 PM
 

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Originally posted by locomaz+Oct 24 2003, 12:52 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (locomaz @ Oct 24 2003, 12:52 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--lowriderlife@Oct 23 2003, 08:40 AM
and as far as distance i "disagree" w/ locomaz---------3-6 inches is way to close----you will end up w/ runs as well as most of the flake boucing off of the panels-----
Different strokes I guess. I have never had a problem with runs in flake. Actually, I never have a problem with runs because I make sure to never put on a full trigger pull which is most people's problem with runs. And, as far as I go, the farther away you are from your object the more that you are apt to get a dry spray. The trick with most paint types (in my experience) is to stay fairly close and to turn your fluid nozzle down. But, most of the time, there is more than one way to skin a cat. :biggrin: ;)[/b][/quote]
I dead agree with you with the runs I never have a problem and I use the fluid feed the same way ..
But with anything mettalic or pearl in clear coat I always found you have to get a good lying angle .. otherwise you will loose brightness , and have found wettin it to quickly with pigments in the clear coat won't hold it in place properly because of the physical properties and flow of clear coats compared to base coats ..
 
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does anyone recommend a paint guy that does good paint jobs and knows how to do flakking the right way i live in philly, pa so any thoughts would help me out a lot i'd travel to nj,del, and md
 

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Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT@Oct 24 2003, 09:13 AM
locomaz is pretty good ;)
Hey, thanks for the compliment homie! :biggrin: I'm in the southernmost part of West Virginia right now, so it would be a long drive for him. But, if he wants to drive down here, I could hook him up. ;)
 

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Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT@Oct 31 2003, 03:24 PM
i would drive anywhere for quality....you know your shit ;)
Thanks bro. Hey, if you were not so far away I would have to hook you up on your candy job. ;)
 

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One time I heard that the best way to get your flake to shine the best was to do 3 different coats.One side to side,one up and down,then diagnal.Obviously Ive never done this before,but it made sense to me.
 

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Originally posted by joe206@Dec 17 2003, 06:52 PM
One time I heard that the best way to get your flake to shine the best was to do 3 different coats.One side to side,one up and down,then diagnal.Obviously Ive never done this before,but it made sense to me.
yes, this is true, its also to make sure you got everything even. the eyes can pick up irregularitied on the up and down and side to side. But all perception is lost on the diagonal. We spray like that at work and never have a blotching or striping problem. I also paint the sides bottom to top, but that's just preference!
 

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Originally posted by joe206@Dec 18 2003, 02:52 AM
One time I heard that the best way to get your flake to shine the best was to do 3 different coats.One side to side,one up and down,then diagnal.Obviously Ive never done this before,but it made sense to me.
very good info here i am going to try this next time i shoot flake :cool:
 
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