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Discussion Starter #1
a buddy wants to wrap his frame and hes not 100% on WHAT to wrap
i told him everything that isnt boxed.

anyone got a detailed discreption for him

its for a regal if it matters
 

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quick and easiest detailed description is a full frame wrap is putting on at minimum 1/4 thick plating on the entire frame (ALL 4 SIDES OF IT) best to do if u got the frame off already and its pretty much the best to do period. but if u dont have the know how to remove the frame from the vehicle then what u want to do is box the inside rails in. the arches above the back tire. the front spring pocket and the tower where the A-arm bolts to. the front and bottom of the crossmember. i would also reccommend jack the engine up off the motor mounts and take teh frame mounts off and plate teh top of the cross member then bolt the frame mounts to the engine mounts then weld it in place on top of the plating
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thank you and yes the frame is off the body (well itwll be as soon as he can grab a engine hoist

oh and there is NO engine in it its FULLY gutted
nothing on the frame nothing in th ebody, its just a empty body sitting on the frame waiting to be lifted off
 

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and also install a bridge in teh back over the rear section
 

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Discussion Starter #5
by bridge what do you mean?

oh
and he doenst want hydros i just though tthis would be the right section for a frame wrap topic
he wants to make the frame strong enough for high horsepower + torque.

round 600 hp 600+ tq
 

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oh a bridge would be installed that fits inbetween the rear frame rails for hyraulics. but if he is wanting to do that then i woul definately box in the frame. and plate teh outside frame rail under the door. and some front crossmember work. im sure there are some other places to look into but thats not my fortee. but i love horse power
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks, thats what i was telling him, but he didnt believe me.
so its pretty much just boxing out the ENTIRE frame?
or would that be a little much would it be enough just to att the peices where nothing is or is it better to acutally box it
 

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KTownSwangin
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Id imagine if you started with a solid frame,if you boxed in the c-channel in the center section of the frame and welded up all the factory seams that would be a good place to start for what he's goin for
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks again.

also whats a easy way to get the body off the frame?
i kno you can use a engine hoist what else?
 

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not so much of an easy way to get the body off the frame as much as a safer way. be nice if u had a car lift. we use 2 jacks and a 4 jack stands and just take the whole car up about 4 feet up in the air and put jack stands under the body itself and slowly lower the jacks down until the body is seperated from teh frame
 

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thats going to add alot of weight. 1 sheet of 1/4 plate weights abuot 330 lbs. if he's trying to race 1/4 mile you'll loose .3 secounds just from the weight of the frame. just giving the heads up.
 

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full frame wraps dont need to be 1/4" all the way for one, they can be done with 3/16" and in some areas you would be better going with less than 1/4", for a hopper you want to keep the front of the frame lighter, so i would do 3/16" up front, thicker just on the belly, and in the spring pockets, but if he just wants it beefier for horsepower that would be a complete WASTE of time, just box in the c channel below the doors, and that will keep it from twisting when getting on the gas, a piece of 1/4" box steel connected the rails in the rear behind the rearend wouldn't hurt either, but a full wrap would be retarded for that application.
 

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Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS@Nov 1 2007, 11:38 PM~9136735
quick and easiest detailed description is a full frame wrap is putting on at minimum 1/4 thick plating on the entire frame  (ALL 4 SIDES OF IT)  best to do if u got the frame off already and its pretty much the best to do period. but if u dont have the know how to remove the frame from the vehicle then what u want to do is box the inside rails in. the arches above the back tire. the front spring pocket and the tower where the A-arm bolts to.  the front and bottom of the crossmember. i would also reccommend jack the engine up off the motor mounts and take teh frame mounts off and plate teh top of the cross member then bolt the frame mounts to the engine mounts then weld it in place on top of the plating
damn it!!, i used 3/16" cold rolled t4 on mine, i guess its not a full frame wrap then eh???? :uh:
 

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Originally posted by bsandhu@Nov 1 2007, 11:45 PM~9136771
by bridge what do you mean?

oh
and he doenst want hydros i just though tthis would be the right section for a frame wrap topic
he wants to make the frame strong enough for high horsepower + torque.

round 600 hp 600+ tq

if its a performance car he is building not a hydraulic car. then dont wrap the frame the stock frame will be strong enough to handle the power.

you will want to put traction bars on the rear end to help put the power to the road, replace all the susp bushings and ball joints .not add weight to the vehicle with un-necessary plate steel.

if the frame has some weak areas Rust holes ect, then just cut out and replace the bad section with 1/8" steel.
 

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The Great White Hype
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Originally posted by 6Deuced@Nov 3 2007, 01:24 AM~9144383
damn it!!, i used 3/16" cold rolled t4 on mine, i guess its not a full frame wrap then eh???? :uh:


thats what I have for mine :0
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Originally posted by milkweed@Nov 2 2007, 11:46 PM~9144510
if its a performance car he is building not a hydraulic car. then dont wrap the frame  the stock frame will be strong enough to handle the power.

you will want to put traction bars on the rear end to help put the power to the road, replace all the susp bushings and ball joints .not add weight to the vehicle with un-necessary plate steel.

if the frame has some weak  areas Rust holes ect, then just cut out and  replace the bad section with 1/8" steel.
uhhh from high torque applications, the frame does twist n shit
so youd think that youd want to reenforce the frame
 

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Originally posted by bsandhu@Nov 14 2007, 04:13 PM~9228459
uhhh from high torque applications, the frame does twist n shit
so youd think that youd want to reenforce the frame

the frame is only going to twist in the middle where the C channel section is

just plate the inside of the frame rail in that section.

if the vehicle is a high torque/power as you say then it should have a role cage installed that attaches to the frame this will stop alot of flex aswell.
 

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Originally posted by bsandhu@Nov 14 2007, 05:13 PM~9228459
uhhh from high torque applications, the frame does twist n shit
so youd think that youd want to reenforce the frame
if you have so much torque that it will twist the frame, you have A LOT of power and GREAT traction. and if this is the case you have a high performance car with slicks and it needs a role cage to eliminate flex.
 
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