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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok can someone help me out here..last night i was out and about in my chevy and when i got home to put her back in the garage all of a sudden my front headlights went out but my rears were still on they worked fine, so this morning like a good boy i checked all of my fuses and i found a burnt fuse put i replace it and that was not the problem...So my guess here is somthing is wrong with my relay switch???? can some help me please ,
THANKS,
SUNNYD
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by ROBERT71MC@Aug 22 2006, 01:19 PM~6018823
check the plug by the firewall in the engine compartment that goes to the head lights
thanks brotherman, i have already shook the plug around several times but i am at work right now so i will take another look when i get home thanks for the reply.....ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS ANY ONE??
 

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Originally posted by ROBERT71MC@Aug 22 2006, 03:19 PM~6018823
check the plug by the firewall in the engine compartment that goes to the head lights

yeah that thing is infamous for headaches like that!
 

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ALWAYS check the grounds first ;)

There should be one on each side
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok fellas, today i kept playing with the firewall plug of the front headlight harness, but still nothing, but what i did notice was that the plug next to it ( engine harness) was very very hot and i know that is not right, so i followed the engine harnest going all along the top of my firewall and i noticed the wires were touching a ground connection and all the wires were as crisp as can be stuck together so i started pulling them all apart.. :( :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
so i guess i might as well get a new front light harness and a new engine harness and get that fixed and go from there...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Originally posted by ALOW1@Aug 23 2006, 10:16 AM~6024979
Your headlight switch is bad, or your dimmer switch may be shot......... just a couple suggestions.
i kinda elminated the switch cause if it were to be the switch then why do i still have my rear tail lights working and all my lights in my instrument panel work.. :angry: man what a headache
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by 1 LO 64@Aug 23 2006, 11:50 AM~6025640
ALWAYS check the grounds first ;)

There should be one on each side
i sure did, everything was grounded properly nice firm connections
 

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Originally posted by SUNNYD@Aug 23 2006, 09:59 PM~6029478
i kinda elminated the switch cause if it were to be the switch then why do i still have my rear tail lights working and all my lights in my instrument panel work.. :angry: man what a headache
How did you "kinda eliminate" the switch ?. There is a main feed into the headlight switch and from there is goes to different area's in the switch (one to the parking light circuits, another to the dimmer circuit, and another to the headlight circuit).
Since you are getting dash lights and rear running lights (parking lights) are you also getting front parking lights ?. If you have front parking lights then I would be thinking still possibly a partially bad switch just in one area headlight switch, a bad dimmer switch, connections to either one, a bad firewall connections, poor headlight grounds, poor headlight connections, or even possibly both headlights are burnt out.
This kinda stuff can be checked wih a basic test light. By grounding the alligator clip end to a clean metal spot on the dash you can take the pointy probe end of the test light and see which terminal on the headlight switch lights it up. This is your battery 12 volt input. There should be one other wire this same size in the headlight switch plug that should light up the test light when the hedlight knob is pulled all the way out. There will be smaller wires that will light up the test light but these are probably parking light outputs and dash dimmer output wires.
If you get a headlight output off of the switch then go down to the floor dimmer switch. There should be the same colored wire down there along with two other colors. Test the same colored wire as what was on the headlight switch. Now one of the remaining two should also light up the test light. Now click the dimmer switch once and release and the third wire should light up the test light.
If you have power this far then inside the engine bay probe into those same colored wires at the back of the headlights. If nothing is there then it's a connection on the firewall connector by the brake booster/master cylinder.
Headlight switches have contacts inside that do wear out. Some also have circuit breakers inside of them. By using a test light (or meter) you should be able to track down the problem.
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Originally posted by Custom Jim@Aug 24 2006, 12:24 PM~6034176
How did you "kinda eliminate" the switch ?. There is a main feed into the headlight switch and from there is goes to different area's in the switch (one to the parking light circuits, another to the dimmer circuit, and another to the headlight circuit).
Since you are getting dash lights and rear running lights (parking lights) are you also getting front parking lights ?. If you have front parking lights then I would be thinking still possibly a partially bad switch just in one area headlight switch, a bad dimmer switch, connections to either one, a bad firewall connections, poor headlight grounds, poor headlight connections, or even possibly both headlights are burnt out.
This kinda stuff can be checked wih a basic test light. By grounding the alligator clip end to a clean metal spot on the dash you can take the pointy probe end of the test light and see which terminal on the headlight switch lights it up. This is your battery 12 volt input. There should be one other wire this same size in the headlight switch plug that should light up the test light when the hedlight knob is pulled all the way out. There will be smaller wires that will light up the test light but these are probably parking light outputs and dash dimmer output wires.
If you get a headlight output off of the switch then go down to the floor dimmer switch. There should be the same colored wire down there along with two other colors. Test the same colored wire as what was on the headlight switch. Now one of the remaining two should also light up the test light. Now click the dimmer switch once and release and the third wire should light up the test light.
If you have power this far then inside the engine bay probe into those same colored wires at the back of the headlights. If nothing is there then it's a connection on the firewall connector by the brake booster/master cylinder.
Headlight switches have contacts inside that do wear out. Some also have circuit breakers inside of them. By using a test light (or meter) you should be able to track down the problem.
Jim
thanks jim very helpful inforomation :worship: :worship: i appreciate you taking the time to type all that up and help me up..i will let you know what happens :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Originally posted by ALOW1@Aug 23 2006, 10:16 AM~6024979
Your headlight switch is bad, or your dimmer switch may be shot......... just a couple suggestions.
ok fellas i am in idot...all this time and all it was, was just my dimmer switch :twak: :twak: it was stuck in the down position ever since i had my new carpet put in for several months now and it finally just gave out :biggrin: dumbass interior shop covered the entire swith in carpet glue :uh: :angry:
 
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