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Discussion Starter #1
has anyone else been having problems with house of kolor clears peeling? i've had to redo two rides now and i have heard of many other local shops having this same problem
 

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Originally posted by old_school_48@Jul 26 2003, 02:23 AM
has anyone else been having problems with house of kolor clears peeling? i've had to redo two rides now and i have heard of many other local shops having this same problem
did you shoot the adherto agent on before you shot the clear on if not thats your problem
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by sabre@Jul 26 2003, 03:37 AM
dosn't sound good ,, R u letting the base dry to much before applying the clear ..
no the clear is apllied well within the window. i have heard from a couple other people that is it a problem from HOK and their clear does not want to stick to their paint.
 

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there clear is crap. every painter I know that has used does npt like it. we will use any of the products that hok sells, but we use our own intercoat clears and clears.
 

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i agreee with skandalouz..we never use HOK clear..their kandys and other shit yea..but the clear we use is PPG...
 

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at my homies shop, doesnt use HOK clear because according to him, "overpriced and has had better results with PPG". havent heard many people using HOK clear.
 

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Ok ,, So HOK have shit clear ,, Have any of you tried the glasurith clears ,, I don't use them but have been told they are exceptional and flow out highly smooth ,, another I've used is the MIPA which I don't know If you have their Its only a small brand from germany but they also make an exceptional clear for very cheap ...
I use a special clear you can't buy over the shelf so I've never had much problem with tryin to find a good clear ..
 

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:uh: hello did anyone read my post in here you have to shoot hok's adherto agent on before you shoot the hok clear on and after your final paint coat and its clear also so it wont mess up your precious paint jobs this helps the clear stick
 

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Originally posted by sabre@Jul 27 2003, 11:50 PM
Ok ,, So HOK have shit clear ,, Have any of you tried the glasurith clears ,, I don't use them but have been told they are exceptional and flow out highly smooth ,, another I've used is the MIPA which I don't know If you have their Its only a small brand from germany but they also make an exceptional clear for very cheap ...
I use a special clear you can't buy over the shelf so I've never had much problem with tryin to find a good clear ..
The glasurit clear is ok, we used to use it at our other shop for a little while as a trial. Out of all the clears I have been around, Sikkens has some very durable and good clears. Our painters at work swear by the Ditzler clear coat as being able to lay down very flat and smooth. the HOK clears are too yellow from all the uv crap they got in them!
 

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ya, it flows out real nice, but if you need to polish it you need to get to it within a couple of days because it gets hard fast. It has to be one of the most durable clears out there.
 

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Originally posted by skandalouz@Jul 28 2003, 02:35 PM
ya, it flows out real nice, but if you need to polish it you need to get to it within a couple of days because it gets hard fast. It has to be one of the most durable clears out there.
It's a shame your not from Aussie land ,, I'd of sent you some of my clear for you to try out ..
 

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DAMMIT i'm hatin this topic the more i read it i didn't paint my car yet but i bought EVERYTHING HOK!!!


so you people are all saying their clear sucks?????!!!!

wouldn't this void my warranty if i shot on a ppg clear instead of theirs and what is this stuff i hear that their clears are too yellow???!!!

someone clear this up because my car will be in primer soon and i need to know this shit before i spray it!!! :angry:
 

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Everyone has a preference on a product to use, you might use the KOK clear and have very good results and love it. For example if I was at the stage of primering the bare metal on my car and was going to use an expoxt primer, I would use use ppg's DPLF primer, because it is the best epoxy out there, but their NCP primer surfacer sucks ass. On the other hand The sikkens primer surfacer can be put down with up to 6 coats and sands very easy fills excellent.
You see where I am going with it. unless you have really tried a product you can't say weither or not it is good or not. It will eventually come down to what you like and what works better. In theory you really should use a productr line from start to finish. We Use all Sikkens at work, but we use PPG pearls And Hok Kandy's, pearls, flakes, bases, etc. We never have a product failure unless its a bad batch of product which will get a warranty any way you look at it. If you do all your prep right and follow the directions for each product you will not have any problem!
 

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dead right ,, Like I use the motospray epoxy primer ,, gives good high build sticks beautifull and sands easy with up to 6 coats and cheap as hell ,, then I use standox bases ,, Spieshecker for candy ,, and flake from the manufacturer ,, and topped with an off the shelf clear ..
never had problems ..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
the last one we had to redo we spayed dupont clear on it. so far so good. all u can do is wait and see
 

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i know each person will have different results but if i spray the hok clear and it peals on me i am going to be pissed i used ppg for everything in school and i loved it!!

but i just love the hok candies.........so i chose them.....but i love the ppg clear but then again i have also heard of this clear pealing problem .....................


but i just don't want to void my warranty by hok if i shoot a ppg clear on top of the whole deal..........DAMMIT
 

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A lot of people underestimate the importance of a quality prep job. I see a lot of shitty paintjobs out there as a result of poor prep work. But those people blame the products they used, because it couldn't possibly have been anything they did wrong... The ONLY reason that clear would peel is half assed prep work. Don't worry, HOK clear is good stuff. I spray UFC-35 all the time. Insiders tip : use KU-500 hardener instead of the recomended KU-150.... It sands and rubs a lot better...
 
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