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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If extending the upper a-arms increases positive camber the wheels should stick out at the top \ / Bulldog/Pitbull look…. My uppers are extended one inch but my wheels still have negative camber / \ when I lift my car….. Not sure if this is normal

I have a V-6 Cutlass with 3.5 ton springs up front… The springs are about 2 to 3 turns short of a full stack… can’t remember exactly how many turns were cut… when the car is dumped I have about 5 inches of space between the top of tire and the fender trim… I have 8 inch cylinders up front and can get the car up pretty high… almost 12 inches of space between the fender trim and the tire when the front is locked up

Anywayz now that you have some background… on to my question…

Most cars with extended uppers seem to have positive camber through out the full suspension range; with serious positive camber when the car is dumped and decent positive camber when the car is locked up….

Well my car has mild positive camber when it’s dumped and significant negative camber when it’s locked up… Besides looking GAY it steers real bad when it is locked… and I’m assuming it probably affects my hop

Any ideas why my car has negative camber when it’s locked while other cars with similar setups are able to maintain the bulldog/pitbull look even when they are locked???

Do I need to add washers between the frame and bar that mounts upper a-arm??? Not sure I can even do that??? Can’t remember which side of the mounting tabs on the frame the a-arm mounting bar sits… outside or inside How can I achieve the bulldog/pitbull look through out the suspension range???

Thanks in advance for any info… it will be greatly appreciated… and to anyone that thinks I should just cut more of my springs up front I am still occasionally slamming the fuckin cross-member when I hop… maybe I don’t know what I am doing at the switch but it makes me cringe when I hear the belly hit the ground
 

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you know it sounds like your belly is collapesde its typical of g bodys not reinforced...if the belly caves the extension will go away....i hate to say it because i think its shit but you may have to split the belly to acheive the right camber..and proper reinforcement....or you could just plate it and and go ghetto and extend the a arms like 2 inches....then it will be like you want...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by ROCKSOLID84@Aug 17 2005, 08:03 AM~3641487
you know it sounds like your belly is collapesde its typical of g bodys not reinforced...if the belly caves the extension will go away....i hate to say it because i think its shit but you may have to split the belly to acheive the right camber..and proper reinforcement....or you could just plate it and and go ghetto and extend the a arms like 2 inches....then it will be like you want...

I guess it could happen... something I never even considered.. but I doubt that's the case with my car... the belly on my frame is reinforced... all four sides are wrapped with 1/4 in plate steel... actually a real nice job (The frame was reinforced before any of the suspension work was done)

Any other ideas???
 

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bent a amrs horns..it has to be reienforced properly...just because stell on it doesnt mean it wont bend ..it will bend eventually especially if you slam the belly you may need more coil there to stop it from slammin while your learning..
 

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Check the a-arm bases, they might be cracked or the bolts might be loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I will definitely take a closer look at the cars frame and a-arm mounting points later this afternoon... although I know all of it was reinforced before the hydraulics were installed... and I may be biased but I have seen a lot of cars at shows and I can honestly say the frame under my car appears to be reinforced a lot better than the average hopper... the a-arms are chromed and if they were bent it would probably be fairly easy to see... everything lines up perfect... door jambs, hood, trunk, and even space betwwen oil pan an dcross member appears square and perfect.... where should I look to see if I have a bent or tweaked fame???

A friend of mine thought it might be becauce I have too much lift... He thinks almost a foot of space between the top of the tire and fender trim with the car locked is way too much and my front should probably be chained so the suspension doesn't extend beyond the point where the wheels start to show negative camber :dunno:
 

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Originally posted by Crazy Bruce@Aug 17 2005, 03:37 PM~3641393
If extending the upper a-arms increases positive camber the wheels should stick out at the top \  /  Bulldog/Pitbull look…. My uppers are extended one inch but my wheels still have negative camber  /  \ when I lift my car….. Not sure if this is normal

I have a V-6 Cutlass with 3.5 ton springs up front… The springs are about 2 to 3 turns short of a full stack… can’t remember exactly how many turns were cut… when the car is dumped I have about 5 inches of space between the top of tire and the fender trim… I have 8 inch cylinders up front and can get the car up pretty high… almost 12 inches of space between the fender trim and the tire when the front is locked up

Anywayz now that you have some background… on to my question…

Most cars with extended uppers seem to have positive camber through out the full suspension range; with serious positive camber when the car is dumped and decent positive camber when the car is locked up….

Well my car has mild positive camber when it’s dumped and significant negative camber when it’s locked up… Besides looking GAY it steers real bad when it is locked… and I’m assuming it probably affects my hop

Any ideas why my car has negative camber when it’s locked while other cars with similar setups are able to maintain the bulldog/pitbull look even when they are locked???

Do I need to add washers between the frame and bar that mounts upper a-arm??? Not sure I can even do that??? Can’t remember which side of the mounting tabs on the frame the a-arm mounting bar sits… outside or inside    How can I achieve the bulldog/pitbull look through out the suspension range???

Thanks in advance for any info… it will be greatly appreciated… and to anyone that thinks I should just cut more of my springs up front I am still occasionally slamming the fuckin cross-member when I hop… maybe I don’t know what I am doing at the switch but it makes me cringe when I hear the belly hit the ground
Sounds like you've bent the upper a-arm mounts, check that area for cracks or bent stuff. To get the "pitbull stance" you'll need to do a belly split + extend the uppers...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You all have me concerned... I will have to get under it and take a good look later today

Although I am still somewhat sceptical the front-end is bent or damaged… primarily because of the symmetry… I am sure if I had a bent frame, a-arm, or upper mounting point the sides would be uneven (one side damaged more or less than the other)

Highly unlikely both sides would bend exactly the same amount…

The wheels have the exact same angle of positive camber with the car dumped and the same negative camber when it’s lifted

Are their any other things that could cause the negative camber when a car is locked up… is it possible my a-arms are not extended enough for the amount of travel I am getting with 8 inch cylinders and nearly a full stack???

Damn I hope nothings bent, cracked or collapsed
 

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Originally posted by Crazy Bruce@Aug 17 2005, 07:05 PM~3642315
You all have me concerned...  I will have to get under it and take a good look later today

Although I am still somewhat sceptical the front-end is bent or damaged… primarily because of the symmetry… I am sure if I had a bent frame, a-arm, or upper mounting point the sides would be uneven (one side damaged more or less than the other)

Highly unlikely both sides would bend exactly the same amount…

The wheels have the exact same angle of positive camber with the car dumped and the same negative camber when it’s lifted

Are their any other things that could cause the negative camber when a car is locked up… is it possible my a-arms are not extended enough for the amount of travel I am getting with 8 inch cylinders and nearly a full stack??? 

Damn I hope nothings bent, cracked or collapsed
Pop the hood and check the areas around the motor mounts, did you hop the car alot?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by StrongIVLife@Aug 17 2005, 08:53 AM~3641702
post pics of the frame

I'll see if I can get some pics... Although I am sure you have already seen the car

It's white Cutlass with blue and gold pearl... three pumps and lots of chrome...

It was imported by Clint a few years ago and after he got bored with it he sold it to Stu in Vancouver who basically just bought it and parked it for 8 months...

When I got my hands on it I brought it over to the Island... cleaned it up and little and fixed a few small problems... overall the car is very solid... ever since it came to Canada it has been advertised as a car built by Pro Hopper... Not sure if it really was or wasn't doesn't really matter to me... but the paper work I got with the car does say it is from Van Nuys California and everything in the car is Pro Hopper
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Originally posted by badass 64@Aug 17 2005, 11:08 AM~3642353
Pop the hood and check the areas around the motor mounts, did you hop the car alot?

What should I look for around the motor mounts??? I haven't hopped it a lot... but I didn't build it... everything lines up like a stock car... none of the body lines, doors, hood, trunk or anything seem to be off... doesn't come across as a car that has really been worked... pretty much a babied Cutlass
 

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Originally posted by Crazy Bruce@Aug 17 2005, 07:21 PM~3642456
What should I look for around the motor mounts??? I haven't hopped it  a lot... but I didn't build it... everything lines up like a stock car... none of the body lines, doors, hood, trunk or anything seem to be off... doesn't come across as a car that has really been worked... pretty much a babied Cutlass
Look at the a-arm mounts that holds the uppers, those are weak as fuck on stock frames but really easy to reinforce. Check those and the upside of the crossmember against them...
 

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Originally posted by Crazy Bruce@Aug 17 2005, 12:21 PM~3642456
What should I look for around the motor mounts??? I haven't hopped it  a lot... but I didn't build it... everything lines up like a stock car... none of the body lines, doors, hood, trunk or anything seem to be off... doesn't come across as a car that has really been worked... pretty much a babied Cutlass

maybe something was overlooked its ok it can all be fixed...get some pics so we can all diagnose the problem...the horns are often ignored when people do quick reinforcing
 

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take those shims out that you got in there , it could easily give you another 1/2'' out there . More degree of + camber too.
 

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Originally posted by G-body4life@Aug 17 2005, 02:37 PM~3643591
just take your A-arms off, cut em and extend them another 4 inches.... :biggrin:  :biggrin:
Yah thats more like it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I just thought of something when I was looking at a earlier today... do you think it could be because I reconnected the sway bar??? Looking at a lot pics online and don't see anyone running a sway bar :dunno:

Just a guess everything else suggested seems to be ok... cross member is reinforced on all four sides... the bottom has real real heavy guage steel on it twice as thick as the front, top, and back... the points where the a-arms bolt up are also reinforced with gussets on either side
 
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