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ok guys dont go makin fun of me ..aight! im setin up a dodge shadow with hydroes ,a real simple set up ok...but my problem is how do i set up the front struts with regular cylsi wanna use the factory springs and all.. but ive never done a strut set up..the tech section didnt real help so any help would be appreciated thanx guys
 

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Ditch the springs and run with straight cylinders with a power ball on the piston end up into the top of each strut tower to act like the rubber/metal OE strut mount that you had. Then just have another bracket at the bottom (with the fluid line) that bolts up to your spindle.

For shock absorbtion just run a set of accumulators off of the cylinder lines.
 

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my girl has a juiced altima neways we simple cut and holled the strut casings boared them out slid the cylinder in them the oem mounting perch reinnforced with powerballs... the bottom of the strut was untouched just bolted back up to the control amrs and shit.... no springs 4 accums sits low as fuck seems to work good only thing that sucks is when o rings go bad u have to take apart ur whole fuckn suspension, and thats beat
 

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There is a cood Tech article on the main page regarding Mac Struts on a newer Caddy and a Honda. Since True-Mac struts are almost all identical...these should help you get and idea of how to work it.

Just don't forget that the cylinder in the top of the strut tower has to be able to pivot totally when the spindle is rotated in steering.

The rear can just be a single axis joint since that is all the movement there is
 
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I am getting ready to do the same thing to my Import. I have a 2000 Eclipse which has McPherson struts not the Honda type struts.

I see someone mentioned using a powerball at the top of the strut. This sounds better than mounting my stock bearing plate. I have already ripped through one of the bearing plates with my air cylinders due to the pressure of the air cylinder and bouncing around. For me I do not want to risk the stock bearing plate with hydraulics because there is a lot more pressure and force with this application as opposed to air cylinders.

If anyone has any pics of a Mcpherson strut setup using the powerballs etc.. could someone post them. I already saw the other ones on the site. Not bad but when I do mine I will take extensive pics and post those on the site for people to see, in the event someone else likes the idea.

Cheers..
 

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I really like that setup using the original strut. The only thing I worry about is the travel limitations of the stock struts. But with it set up that way, I'd assume that the strut would act like a shock absorber and the accumulator a soft spring, making the ride perhaps even better than with reverse flows, no struts and accumulators. Am I close here?
 

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It is not wise to use factory springs. First you got to gut the factory strut towers and have just the casing. There are cycliders with side ports. Meaning that the fitting does not go into the top end of the cyclinder it fits in the side. This way, you don't loosen the fitting when you turn the wheel. Cut a hole at the bottom part of the strut casing in relation to where the fitting is on the cyclinder. The cyclinder will sit upside down in the casing. This will save you money on buying a reverse flow cyclinder. Same principle. Don't forget to get a piece of pipe to fit around the cyclinder to hold it steady inside the casing so there is no play. Take a donut, place it on top of the casing, make sure it is centered and weld it to the casing. This will replace where the factory coil would sit. Get a mini coil and cut it to the length that you want it and set it on top of the donut. Then take another donut and place it on top of the coil and set the cyclinder down in the assembly. Bolt the cyclinder to the piece that the factory strut piston was bolted to. You wil then be able to bolt the cyclinder assembly back to the car.
 

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This is one way ive done using a showball, and a Rev Cyl----









Last edited by edmunds costoms hyd at Dec 28 2003, 11:09 AM
 

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you might want to check out the cce strut set up,I have used it and I think it is the best in the states. :biggrin: real similar to what edmunds customs posted. :cool:
 

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Originally posted by edmunds costoms hyd@Dec 28 2003, 12:08 PM
 



What I'd like to know is how does that work without blowing the fluid out of the ball/socket joint?

Cause that would be perfect to take all of the rotational stresses off of the strut tower. AND not have to worry about plumbing your lines all over the place.



Last edited by Skuce2 at Dec 28 2003, 02:38 PM
 

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Originally posted by Skuce2+Dec 28 2003, 01:37 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Skuce2 @ Dec 28 2003, 01:37 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--edmunds costoms hyd@Dec 28 2003, 12:08 PM
 



What I'd like to know is how does that work without blowing the fluid out of the ball/socket joint?

Cause that would be perfect to take all of the rotational stresses off of the strut tower. AND not have to worry about plumbing your lines all over the place.[/b][/quote]
the ball is welded to the end of the cyl--also the tip is machined down about the whith of the ball and the ball is drilled to that size , so it acts like a stopped so that the ball will slide down so much , just look at the pic , of the cyl- shafts and youll will see what i mean
 

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Originally posted by Skuce2@Dec 28 2003, 10:24 PM


AHHH!!! ...I see it now. ;)

that's pretty slick :cool:
What kind of car you have , i can hook you up with conversion on the showballs , and you can adapted them to your car,
 

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Originally posted by Volv_lo@Dec 28 2003, 11:46 PM
On some cars the fitting might hit the hood....

Looks good tho...

:biggrin:
naaaaa , it clear , this one i did for a Galaunt , i know thats spelled worng - need a spell checker --- and the brass fitting in a live swivel , so that the elbo fitting doesnt bind or back off
 
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