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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, I'm going to keep my Panasonic CQ-C7103U headunit for now. I'll be using a Sundown Audio SAE-1000D amp to power a single Fi Q15 subwoofer. I'll be using a Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 amp to power my 5.25" CDT components up front and a set of speakers in back. I haven't decided on the speakers for the back, but I want them to give me some midbass. Does anyone have ideas? They need to handle around 100 rms watts each. I usually shop on Techronics.com - Online Electronics Store - and WoofersEtc.com - The Online Car Audio Super Store, The largest selection at the lowest prices!

SAE-1000D $285 shipped

The SAE-1000D is Sundown's "entry level" subwoofer amplifier and is designed as a very compact bass amplification solution. This amplifier packs 1000 watts into a chassis that is over 5 inches shorter than that of the SAZ-1500D. As with the SAZ-1500D sound quality was a paramount concern with the SAE-1000D and it will not disappoint those looking for a crisp and clean bass amplifier. The SAE-1000D is also made with the future in mind as two units can be linked together to produce a staggering 1800 watts into a 2 ohm load.

SPECIFICATIONS:

* 1000 x 1 watts @ 1 ohm
* 600 x 1 watts @ 2 ohms
* 300 x 1 watts @ 4 ohms
* 0.2v - 6v adjustable input sensitivity
* 10 Hz - 350 Hz Frequency Response
* > 90 dB S/N Ratio
* 4-Way Protection Circuit (Thermal, Overload, Speaker Short, and Over Current)
* Linkable to another SAZ-1000D for 1800 watts @ 2 ohms
* 35 Hz - 300 Hz adjustable 24dB Low-Pass Crossover
* 10 Hz - 60 Hz adjustable 24dB Subsonic Filter
* 0 - 180 degree adjustable phase shift
* 0 - 18 dB adjustable bass boost with 45 Hz center frequency
* Wired Remote Control unit included
* 3x 30 Amp Internal Fuses
* 4 AWG power and ground terminals
* 11.5" L x 10.2" W x 2" H
* $399 US Dollars - MSRP
* $439 Canadian Dollars - MSRP



SAX-100.4 $300 shipped

The SAX-100.4 is the second "X" series multi-channel amplifier to come from Sundown Audio. This model is built to the same exacting standards as the SAX-100.2 but adds another set of channels and more advanced crossovers. It's flexible crossovers allow the user to run a 2-way active speaker setup with no external processing. It packs enough punch that one could also run a set of front speakers with one pair of channels and a subwoofer, bridged, on the other pair of channels for use as a total system amplifier where high power is not required.

SPECIFICATIONS:

* 100 x 4 watts @ 4 ohms
* 160 x 4 watts @ 2 ohms
* 320 x 2 watts @ 4 ohms bridged
* Damping Factor > 200 @ 4 Ohms
* 0.2v - 6v adjustable input sensitivity
* 10 Hz - 40,000 Hz Frequency Response
* Channel Separations: 75 dB
* > 90 dB S/N Ratio
* 4-Way Protection Circuit (Thermal, Overload, Speaker Short, and Over Current)
* Selectable HP / LP / FULL crossover
* CH 1 & 2 Variable HP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB
* CH 1 & 2 Variable LP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB
* CH 3 & 4 Variable HP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB
* CH 3 & 4 Variable LP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB
* 10 Hz - 500 Hz variable subsonic filter (CH 1&2 and CH 3&4)
* Subsonic filter allows for band-passed crossover configuration
* 0 - 18 dB adjustable bass boost
* 35 - 120 Hz Variable Bass Boost Center Frequency
* Wired Remote Control unit included
* 3x 30 Amp Internal Fuses
* 16.5" L x 9.9" W x 2" H
* $449 US Dollars - MSRP
* $495 Canadian Dollars - MSRP


Fi Q15 $279 shipped

The Q Series of subwoofers is our sound quality reference line. Featuring a hefty double stack motor structure with a heavily bumped t-yoke, the 27mm of Xmax allows for incredibly detailed, tight, and powerful bass. Dual progressive spiders keep the incredible linear excursion of this sub under control, while the extra heavy lead wire feeds the giant voice coil. Working well in both small ported and sealed enclosures, you do not have to give up your trunk to have strong bottom octave foundation for the rest of your system. The Q series is the new bottom octave benchmark.

Q Series: 12”, 15”, and 18”
Dual 1 and Dual 2 Ohm
Cast basket
Wrap around gasket
Kraft pulp fiber reinforced cone
Single layer wide foam surround
Push terminals
Extra heavy lead wire
FEA optimized motor
3” diameter 4 layer coil
Double stack magnets
Dual progressive spiders

DUAL 1 | DUAL 2

Fs: 25.9 Hz | 24.9 Hz
Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil
Qms: 5.64 | 5.72
Qes: .54 | .54
Qts: .49 | .49
Mms: 257g | 279g
Cms: 0.15mm/N | 0.15mm/N
Sd: 810cm^2 | 810cm^2
Vas: 135 l | 135 l
Spl: 88.2dB 1W/1m | 87.7dB 1W/1m
Bl: 10.4 N/A | 15.1 N/A
Xmax: 27mm
Rms: 1000W
Sealed box: 2-2.6 cuft
Ported box: 2.8-4 cuft @ 28-33Hz
Sub OD: 15.625”
Cut ID: 14.125”
Mounting depth: 8.500”
Displacement: 0.19cuft
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, I guess I'm not very impressed with CDT. They get loud but they can't take any bass at all. I have to keep my speaker bass at -4. I don't know if that's just 5.25" components in general, or what. What size CDT drivers have you guys used?
 

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Originally posted by themerc@Oct 19 2007, 01:53 PM~9039953
Yeah, I guess I'm not very impressed with CDT. They get loud but they can't take any bass at all. I have to keep my speaker bass at -4. I don't know if that's just 5.25" components in general, or what. What size CDT drivers have you guys used?
I've never been impressed with 5.25" drivers bass at all. 6.25" are much better in my ears, but they're not really meant to hit too low anyway.

My buddy had some 6.25" in his full size van that sounded ok. We took the door off and sealed up all the holes with tape/sound deadening and they sounded much better.

I built a box for some 6.25"s a long time ago that in a small room sounded damn impressive how low they got.

Just thinking out loud here...have you played around with your crossover settings?
 

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with the cdt's, you have to seal your doors pretty good.. which ones are you using by the way?.. .they make a number of components.

I use the EF 6.5's with satnet 480 cross's and the mid bass is pretty smooth and punchy. I have them crossed at ~100hz, and set my pana HU up correctly (i love the eq and filter features on my HU). the ID's help fill in that freq. band as well

You know how with subs, you can't just throw them in a box and expect them to be sick?... same thing with comps, you cant just throw them in your door and think they're gonna be at their best.
 

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Originally posted by themerc@Oct 19 2007, 02:53 PM~9039953
Yeah, I guess I'm not very impressed with CDT. They get loud but they can't take any bass at all. I have to keep my speaker bass at -4. I don't know if that's just 5.25" components in general, or what. What size CDT drivers have you guys used?
sounds like an install issue
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Originally posted by Sporty@Oct 19 2007, 04:54 PM~9040431
with the cdt's, you have to seal your doors pretty good.. which ones are you using by the way?.. .they make a number of components.

I use the EF 6.5's with satnet 480 cross's and the mid bass is pretty smooth and punchy. I have them crossed at ~100hz, and set my pana HU up correctly (i love the eq and filter features on my HU). the ID's help fill in that freq. band as well

You know how with subs, you can't just throw them in a box and expect them to be sick?... same thing with comps, you cant just throw them in your door and think they're gonna be at their best.
CL-S50A with TW-25mm Tweeters and SatNet-400 crossovers...

What did you set to 100Hz? The crossover on your amplifier? Your headunit HPF?
 

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Originally posted by themerc@Oct 21 2007, 03:04 PM~9051331
CL-S50A with TW-25mm Tweeters and SatNet-400 crossovers...

What did you set to 100Hz? The crossover on your amplifier? Your headunit HPF?
my HPF on the HU is at or near 100 (The closest band starting at 100, i cant remember exactly), and yes to the cross on the amp.

i would think you would want to go to 80hz being that you dont have anything else for midbass... but it is a 5.25".

if you wanna get serious... get some 6.5" cdt midbass drivers in the doors, and put your comps in some kicks...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah I don't think I want to make kick panels, but I'm thinking about some 6.5" CDT midbass drivers in the rear deck... or modifying my rear doors for some 6.5's. The rear doors don't have speakers in my car, but theres a large section on the bottom of the door with carpet on it.
 

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Originally posted by themerc@Oct 21 2007, 10:25 PM~9053778
Yeah I don't think I want to make kick panels, but I'm thinking about some 6.5" CDT midbass drivers in the rear deck... or modifying my rear doors for some 6.5's. The rear doors don't have speakers in my car, but theres a large section on the bottom of the door with carpet on it.
i think your gonna do whatever your gonna do and then afterwards attempt some kickpanels :biggrin:

in a car, thats what i would do. woulda have done it like that in my truck but just so happens i stumbled along better :puffin:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Originally posted by Sporty@Oct 21 2007, 11:28 PM~9053803
i think your gonna do whatever your gonna do and then afterwards attempt some kickpanels  :biggrin:

in a car, thats what i would do. woulda have done it like that in my truck but just so happens i stumbled along better :puffin:
Yeah you're probably right. Here's a modified rear door of a crown vic...


My door basically looks like that except the gray leather is tan carpet with no speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Originally posted by Sporty@Oct 21 2007, 11:35 PM~9053849
you'll be WAY better off with option #1 and you know it. kicks arent that difficult, try it out. or better yet, you can prolly find some for your specific car, but i mean, if you can make it you can save a ton
Yeah they don't make kicks for a grand marquis lol.



There's my front door.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Originally posted by Sporty@Oct 22 2007, 02:31 PM~9057358
i forgot you mounted the tweeter up there... n/m

put a 5.25" midbass driver in the kick then... that should be even easier
If I did do that, which I'm not promising I will, which set of speakers would you run off the headunit, the pair in the rear deck? or the pair in the kick panels? The components in the doors would definitely run off of the amp.
 

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Originally posted by themerc@Oct 22 2007, 02:39 PM~9057796
If I did do that, which I'm not promising I will, which set of speakers would you run off the headunit, the pair in the rear deck? or the pair in the kick panels? The components in the doors would definitely run off of the amp.
i wouldnt have anything in the rear deck, and i would amp the mid bass drivers... get some cdt 6.5's and make some kicks for them... aim the passenger kick and the driver and driver kick at the passenger.

anyone agree/disagree? he's already got a hole in his doors for the tweeters so putting the comps down in the kicks is a lil out of the question
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Originally posted by Sporty@Oct 22 2007, 03:57 PM~9057936
i wouldnt have anything in the rear deck, and i would amp the mid bass drivers... get some cdt 6.5's and make some kicks for them... aim the passenger kick and the driver and driver kick at the passenger.

anyone agree/disagree? he's already got a hole in his doors for the tweeters so putting the comps down in the kicks is a lil out of the question
I think whitepapi had some kicks made for his car that attached to the door in place of that giant pocket.
 
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