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Originally posted by NY-BOSSMAN@Apr 16 2008, 09:06 AM~10428708
this is the stock rear set up with a "bridge" that was in the car when i got it :uh:

still again, im talking about the body of the car, its subframing that is built into the body.

what i did when i relocated my mounting points was to put the stock suspension in the car. take some 1x1 tube and weld the axle inplace. when i could remove the stock TAs and cut the stock perches off and bolt the longer TAs to the axle and located where the mounts needed to be and i built them out of 2x2x1/4
 

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Discussion Starter #22
ok so what im thinking is to relocate my uppers arms down to my origonal lower mounts and put a 12" stretch on the lowers and relocate them further ahead somewhere under my rear seat and im gonna drop them mounts down just past the frame think this will do?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Originally posted by Mark@Apr 16 2008, 11:20 AM~10428806
still again, im talking about the body of the car, its subframing that is built into the body.

what i did when i relocated my mounting points was to put the stock suspension in the car. take some 1x1 tube and weld the axle inplace. when i could remove the stock TAs and cut the stock perches off and bolt the longer TAs to the axle and located where the mounts needed to be and i built them out of 2x2x1/4
thanx for the info mark,its very helpful :biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Originally posted by stevie d@Apr 16 2008, 02:11 AM~10427402
do it like this homie extend the lowers an inch or 2 and extend the uppers to the frame rails i always do my hoppers like this and it allows you to run the full lenght of stroke and with a slip yoke you can still roll on full lift n drop


here it is layed

this car has had the lower stretched 3" back and 7" forwards to keep the axle back

this is my old hopper frame with the lowers stretche 1"

hes only got 16s in there at the mo i had 22s on accs it used to sit axle to frame and have over 28" of travel before it started getting tight i had 22s in there with no probs
thanx for sharing brother :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Originally posted by classic customs@Apr 16 2008, 04:55 PM~10431036
:wave:  yo gringo
hey whats up buddy,what you think i should do?
 
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Originally posted by NY-BOSSMAN@Apr 16 2008, 04:00 PM~10431067
hey whats up buddy,what you think i should do?

going to be honest Todd.

i have no clue



























































:biggrin: listen to what mark is saying. that way you will keep the factory wheelbase :cool:
 

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Originally posted by Mark@Apr 16 2008, 11:20 AM~10428806
still again, im talking about the body of the car, its subframing that is built into the body.

what i did when i relocated my mounting points was to put the stock suspension in the car. take some 1x1 tube and weld the axle inplace. when i could remove the stock TAs and cut the stock perches off and bolt the longer TAs to the axle and located where the mounts needed to be and i built them out of 2x2x1/4
you could faborcate some periches by cutting them out of 3/16" steel plate .cut the radiuos for the axel then cut a peice "circle" alittle larger than the power ball
and weld it to the the perchies then weld them to the axel . and go back and fill in the frount and back of the perchies to renforce them this will work realy grate and a lot better than squair tube and give you less problams and wear on the bolts and the bolt holes . It'll also give you the pivot needed for the cyclenders . and you could also streach your your lower triling arms foward a few inches relocating the
hangers futher towards the frount of the car. for the uppers thers a stop on the frount fo the Or ear shave that down smooth . by doing this will alow the upres to swing futher for more travel . note on the pearchies make them sit twords the frount of the axel with the radios actuley rooling to the bottom center of the axel
this will help the cyclender stay out of the back of the seat and aim the top of the cyclnder towards the back of the package tray and sit a little more staight when locked up . I deffently recamend tella's for the cyclnders :biggrin:
 

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Originally posted by sweet63rolln@Apr 16 2008, 06:57 PM~10432850
you could faborcate some periches by cutting them out of 3/16" steel plate .cut the radiuos for the axel then cut a peice "circle" alittle larger than the power ball
and weld it to the the perchies  then weld them to the axel . and go back and fill in the frount and back of the perchies to renforce them this will work realy grate and a lot better than squair tube and give you less problams and wear on the bolts and the bolt holes . It'll also give you the pivot  needed for  the cyclenders . and you could also streach your your lower triling arms foward a few inches relocating the
hangers futher towards the frount of the car. for the uppers thers a stop on the frount fo the Or ear shave that down smooth . by doing this will alow the upres to swing futher for more travel . note on the pearchies make them sit twords the frount of the axel with the radios actuley rooling to the bottom center of the axel
this will help the cyclender stay out of the back of the seat and aim the top of the cyclnder towards the back of the package tray and sit a little more staight when locked up . I deffently recamend tella's for the cyclnders :biggrin:
:scrutinize:
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Originally posted by classic customs@Apr 17 2008, 05:58 AM~10436482
:dunno:  :roflmao:
start over mark  :0
:0 :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:
 

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Originally posted by sweet63rolln@Apr 16 2008, 05:57 PM~10432850
you could faborcate some periches by cutting them out of 3/16" steel plate .cut the radiuos for the axel then cut a peice "circle" alittle larger than the power ball
and weld it to the the perchies  then weld them to the axel . and go back and fill in the frount and back of the perchies to renforce them this will work realy grate and a lot better than squair tube and give you less problams and wear on the bolts and the bolt holes . It'll also give you the pivot  needed for  the cyclenders . and you could also streach your your lower triling arms foward a few inches relocating the
hangers futher towards the frount of the car. for the uppers thers a stop on the frount fo the Or ear shave that down smooth . by doing this will alow the upres to swing futher for more travel . note on the pearchies make them sit twords the frount of the axel with the radios actuley rooling to the bottom center of the axel
this will help the cyclender stay out of the back of the seat and aim the top of the cyclnder towards the back of the package tray and sit a little more staight when locked up . I deffently recamend tella's for the cyclnders :biggrin:
can we have that in english please haha :biggrin:
 

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Originally posted by westsidehydros@Apr 27 2008, 09:40 AM~10513491

Right around the corner from ya homie...
:biggrin:
whats the specs on this? amount extended to the lowers, amount the lowers mounts where moved up and are there any coils in the rear and cylinder size. :biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Originally posted by westsidehydros@Apr 27 2008, 11:40 AM~10513491

Right around the corner from ya homie...
:biggrin:
:0 damn pete ,you build that?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Originally posted by Mark@Apr 27 2008, 01:39 PM~10514082
whats the specs on this?  amount extended to the lowers, amount the lowers mounts where moved up and are there any coils in the rear and cylinder size.  :biggrin:
x2more info please :biggrin:
 
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