LayItLow.com Lowrider Forums banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
had a litle rouble wih bitch ass verizon talking about it takes 10 days to set up my dsl

bu it's up now.
what have i missed?

i replied to your pm's b diddy1 i was kinda late but whatever
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,552 Posts
Originally posted by joebomber52@Sep 12 2005, 03:58 PM~3799352
had a litle rouble wih bitch ass verizon talking about it takes 10 days to set up my dsl

bu it's up now.
what have i missed?

i replied to your pm's b diddy1 i was kinda late but whatever
If you are gonna be away for an extended period of time, I expect a heads up!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Originally posted by b_diddy1@Sep 12 2005, 04:31 PM~3800494
If you are gonna be away for an extended period of time, I expect a heads up!
did you take care of all that stuff you needed?
 

·
Asspirating Poster
Joined
·
3,677 Posts
You bring any updated pics? If not, go away again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
856 Posts
yeah joe, with out layitlow you must have had some extra time on your hands. please tell us you got some work done on that 52.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,552 Posts
Originally posted by joebomber52@Sep 12 2005, 06:35 PM~3800522
did you take care of all that stuff you needed?
Yep. I figured it out, by re-reading our original discussion about the valve wiring from about a month ago.

Project Progess Update ...

1.) York Installed, Wired to Relay, Filled with oil, Intake filter installed, and airline ran to trunk. (Tested and clutch engages when 12V sent to relay)
2.) Both driver side and passenger side air lines ran to trunk as well as the incoming air line from the compressor
3.) Pressure switch and switch box power wire ran from accessory power fuse, through a toggle switch, and out back to the trunk
4.) "Signal" wire ran from pressure switch to relay under hood
5.) Trunk "liner" made of wood carpeted and installed in floor trunk.
6.) Tank mounted to "liner"
7.) Pressure guage mounted on left hand port of tank
8.) Adjustable 400 psi pressure switch ran to top of tank, via a L-shaped fitting which allows switch to sit horizontally / parallel to the top of tank
9.) Pressure switch wired
10.) Drain cock installed
11.) All 8 vavles plumbed, and wired to switch box.

Still need to ground my valves, hook up my check valve, pressure relief valve, and coalescing filter to the incoming airline and connect to tank. And the major part ... install some fucking bags. I am putting in the 13" bags this weekend. I am a little intimidated by the front end, so I am a dragging my feet on ordering them. I am not sure if I can handle the front install.

- Brad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Originally posted by b_diddy1@Sep 12 2005, 04:50 PM~3800641
Yep. I figured it out, by re-reading our original discussion about the valve wiring from about a month ago.

Project Progess Update ...

1.) York Installed, Wired to Relay, Filled with oil, Intake filter installed, and airline ran to trunk. (Tested and clutch engages when 12V sent to relay)
2.) Both driver side and passenger side air lines ran to trunk as well as the incoming air line from the compressor
3.) Pressure switch and switch box power wire ran from accessory power fuse, through a toggle switch, and out back to the trunk
4.) "Signal" wire ran from pressure switch to relay under hood
5.) Trunk "liner" made of wood carpeted and installed in floor trunk.
6.)  Tank mounted to "liner"
7.) Pressure guage mounted on left hand port of tank
8.) Adjustable 400 psi pressure switch ran to top of tank, via a L-shaped fitting which allows switch to sit horizontally / parallel to the top of tank
9.) Pressure switch wired
10.) Drain cock installed
11.) All 8 vavles plumbed, and wired to switch box.

Still need to ground my valves, hook up my check valve, pressure relief valve, and coalescing filter to the incoming airline and connect to tank. And the major part ... install some fucking bags. I am putting in the 13" bags this weekend. I am a little intimidated by the front end, so I am a dragging my feet on ordering them. I am not sure if I can handle the front install.

- Brad
didn't you buy the brackets from dan?

making the correct brackets is the hardest part

aside from trimming the pockets if you don't have the right tools

and taking out the coils

i always ciut the coils out in peices with cutting wheel
on old cars
or torch them out

or the jack under the lower arm
and disconnect the shocksa and upper balljoint

torch is fun
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,552 Posts
Originally posted by joebomber52@Sep 12 2005, 07:08 PM~3800804
didn't you buy the brackets from dan?

making the correct brackets is the hardest part

aside from trimming the pockets if you don't have the right tools

and taking out the coils

i always ciut the coils out in peices with cutting wheel
on old cars
or torch them out

or the jack under the lower arm
and disconnect the shocksa and upper balljoint

torch is fun
yeah I bought brackets. they worked great (with a little modification) I am just not sure what all needs to be done in order to take apart the front end and put it back together. I am not exactly johnny backyard mechanic over here!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by yodawagon@Sep 12 2005, 04:39 PM~3800560
yeah joe, with out layitlow you must have had some extra time on your hands. please tell us you got some work done on that 52.
well i got them skirts to fit with some trimming and new mounting bracketry
but that is about all that's been done to the 52 aside from powder coating a pair of dropped spindels for it that i havn't put in yet
i just realized two nights ago
i'f i'm gonna take this seriouse my car is gonna have to wait
don't make money working on it
until it's done a nd becomes a rolling advertisement




my time has been more into searching for parts for customer cars

ordering wiring harnesses and suspension parts for the 49

and i spent a day getting the 49 ready to pop the engine out

i have everything in good condition if anyone is searshing for anything under the hood

for 49-54 chevy

i'm picking up a mototr for it this week 350 sbc
th400 trans 10 bolt rear

waiting for a 4 link kit to arrive

also gonna be putting the body back on that 65 frame

after these are done i have
a 54 chevy coming in for bags
35 chevy for a 12 volt conversion
and 48 fleetline for a full restoration
a 61 caddy for bags
and maby a 37 chevy for bags
so yeah the 52 is puched into late nights after hours and freetime

looking to get that $$$$$$$ together
the shop is coming soon :biggrin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
856 Posts
nice to here things are starting to fall in place for you joe. ill also be putting up a shop on my land. kind of a side job, pocket money making, support my habit kind of shop. a 30 by 60 shop probably.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Originally posted by b_diddy1@Sep 12 2005, 05:12 PM~3800841
yeah I bought brackets. they worked great (with a little modification) I am just not sure what all needs to be done in order to take apart the front end and put it back together. I am not exactly johnny backyard mechanic over here!
front end
hmmm
sway bar is 4 bolts on frame
and two on each end to the lower arms

lower arms are 4 bolts to frame and a ball joint

upper is two bolt to frame and ball joint

steering just take a picture
or ditch it all and do a box conversion
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
856 Posts
ditch the sway bar. it really doesnt do much it seems like. atleast with air anyways. once i took mine off, i could hit some wicked sides.to get the spring out, i would just us a jack under the arm, jack it up a little to compress the spring, then un bolt the ball joint. then slowly lower the jack. if you get worried about the spring hopping out of there and giving you a little kiss, just run a chain through some of the turns and then chain it to the frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Originally posted by yodawagon@Sep 12 2005, 06:49 PM~3801545
ditch the sway bar. it really doesnt do much it seems like. atleast with air anyways. once i took mine off, i could hit some wicked sides.to get the spring out, i would just us a jack under the arm, jack it up a little to compress the spring, then un bolt the ball joint. then slowly lower the jack. if you get worried about the spring hopping out of there and giving you a little kiss, just run a chain through some of the turns and then chain it to the frame.
or torch it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Originally posted by yodawagon@Sep 12 2005, 07:00 PM~3801655
have fun with the ball joints. i had a hell of a time getting those out.
yeah i seen some guy try to take out b- joints with the wrong tools
it was like watching a retard trying to fuck a door knob

tools needed will be
pickle fork on an air hammer is good but ok with manual hammer

or if you can get the assembly off the frame byt the arms and still not able to get the b joints loose, hit them out with a hammer
your gonna be getting some new ones anyways
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,552 Posts
Originally posted by joebomber52@Sep 12 2005, 09:09 PM~3801713
yeah i seen some guy try to take out b- joints with the wrong tools
it was like watching a retard trying to fuck a door knob

tools needed will be
pickle fork on an air hammer is good but ok with manual hammer

or if you can get the assembly off the frame byt the arms and still not able to get the b joints loose, hit them out with a hammer
your gonna be getting some new ones anyways
Are there bushings in the front end that are going to need to be pressed in by a machine shop?
 

·
tippin' on 3
Joined
·
5,078 Posts
Originally posted by yodawagon@Sep 12 2005, 07:00 PM~3801655
have fun with the ball joints. i had a hell of a time getting those out.

NO SHIT RIGHT!!! even after you grind off the rivets they still won't come out!
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top