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Any one have the new iwata gun? My jobber is going to drop off a iwata ls400 super nova so i can try out ..Cant wait to see how it lays down silvers.I have a hard time with silvers :mad:
 

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Originally posted by sic713@Feb 9 2010, 02:52 PM~16562136
i seen a brochure at my local store..
keep us posted.. thats gun looks bad ass..

anyone know the price tag on it
I seen it priced around $550.00 one site said $518.00 and another said $589.00
 

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I use an LPH-400 for all my clears, it's a fantastic clear gun but I don't like it
much for base, especially silvers. I had a lot of striping with it, I have read
lots of others having the same problem on other forums so it's not just me.
I even got a special base cap and still no difference.
I just don't think it's a good base gun. I still use my el-cheapo Astro for base
and it does so much better, but for clear, the Iwata rules.
A lot of Iwata users turn the pressure up to about 25 psi at the gun to help
on spraying base, that's what my buddy does and he gets it to do alright.
I just use whats easier.
 

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Originally posted by jcclark@Feb 9 2010, 05:17 PM~16563582
I use an LPH-400 for all my clears, it's a fantastic clear gun but I don't like it
much for base, especially silvers. I had a lot of striping with it, I have read
lots of others having the same problem on other forums so it's not just me.
I even got a special base cap and still no difference.
I just don't think it's a good base gun. I still use my el-cheapo Astro for base
and it does so much better, but for clear, the Iwata rules.
A lot of Iwata users turn the pressure up to about 25 psi at the gun to help
on spraying base, that's what my buddy does and he gets it to do alright.
I just use whats easier.
I've never used my Iwata LPH for base only clear, but i've heard that they arent so great.. it's an awesome clear gun but I use my devilbiss GTI for base
 

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Originally posted by jcclark@Feb 9 2010, 05:17 PM~16563582
I use an LPH-400 for all my clears, it's a fantastic clear gun but I don't like it
much for base, especially silvers. I had a lot of striping with it, I have read
lots of others having the same problem on other forums so it's not just me.
I even got a special base cap and still no difference.
I just don't think it's a good base gun. I still use my el-cheapo Astro for base
and it does so much better, but for clear, the Iwata rules.
A lot of Iwata users turn the pressure up to about 25 psi at the gun to help
on spraying base, that's what my buddy does and he gets it to do alright.
I just use whats easier.n
i do have the same problems with base..
candies it works fine for me
 

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Originally posted by sic713@Feb 9 2010, 05:52 PM~16563935
i do have the same problems with base..
candies it works fine for me
I also heard that too... :wow: that shit is weird,,
 

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It just breaks the paint up very well. So clears and candies lay down great. But it breaks the metallic up too much for silvers and others. I use the lph400 with the orAnge cap for base and it's a great gun. I wouldn't mind checking out this new one though.
 

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what do you mean by you have aproblem laying silvers? you talking about leaving tiger stripes? if so try laying the base out dryer, i like to do all my metallic bases like medium/dry and never ever have any problems with striping or any other metallic problems
 

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Originally posted by FlipFlopBox@Feb 9 2010, 09:28 PM~16565156
what do you mean by you have aproblem laying silvers? you talking about leaving tiger stripes? if so try laying the base out dryer, i like to do all my metallic bases like medium/dry and never ever have any problems with striping or any other metallic problems
Actually it seams like the opposite. At least that's been my experience with my iwatas. The slower let's it settle and metallics lay down.
 

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Originally posted by Big Doe@Feb 9 2010, 03:57 PM~16564728
It just breaks the paint up very well. So clears and candies lay down great. But it breaks the metallic up too much for silvers and others. I use the lph400 with the orAnge cap for base and it's a great gun. I wouldn't mind checking out this new one though.
i was thinking the same thing..over atomizing?
 

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Originally posted by FlipFlopBox@Feb 9 2010, 04:28 PM~16565156
what do you mean by you have aproblem laying silvers? you talking about leaving tiger stripes? if so try laying the base out dryer, i like to do all my metallic bases like medium/dry and never ever have any problems with striping or any other metallic problems
shooting bases 2 dry will lead to modeling..try playing with your reducers...if you tack rag your base and it comes off on to the rag its not stable and should be shot more wet thats why most bc call for a med wet coat :cool:
 

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There is really no way to over atomize the paint.Most reducers are made up of 3 types of solvents,frontal,mid,&tail.Frontal does the job of getting it out of the gun,mid helps with the transfer to the surface,tail helps with the coverage on the car ie...metallics and pearls.Cheap reducers leave out some of these solvents in order to be cheaper than a competitors.The higher priced solvents are worth the money in the long run.Remember that the temp of the solvent will only work within a certain temp range.You can use a slower solvent with metallics and pearls to get the color to melt in properly,try not to use in too cool of a spray temp-may cause wrinkling,darker shade and even fisheye if the car sheetmetal is too cold.Not trying to step on anyones toes,just trying to put some info out.
 

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Originally posted by The CadiKingpin@Feb 10 2010, 09:05 PM~16576419
There is really no way to over atomize the paint.Most reducers are made up of 3 types of solvents,frontal,mid,&tail.Frontal does the job of getting it out of the gun,mid helps with the transfer to the surface,tail helps with the coverage on the car ie...metallics and pearls.Cheap reducers leave out some of these solvents in order to be cheaper than a competitors.The higher priced solvents are worth the money in the long run.Remember that the temp of the solvent will only work within a certain temp range.You can use a slower solvent with metallics and pearls to get the color to melt in properly,try not to use in too cool of a spray temp-may cause wrinkling,darker shade and even fisheye if the car sheetmetal is too cold.Not trying to step on anyones toes,just trying to put some info out.
Look it up. It even says on the iwata forums that it over atomizes the metallics.
 

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just paid my 200 for a demo gun....i have not used it yet i have a mail box i might try to shoot this weekend. i wish a had a hood or something

over atomizes? is that from IWATA or from some one on a forum that is staing an opinion? or is this manufacturer fact? the lvb lph-400 does a great job atomizing pearls and metallics but a common problem is that painters like to HEAR the spray and crank the Iwata up and it likes to spray at lower air volume, hence the reaason every one that sprays water(waterbourne-based paints) uses an iwata to do so. you Spray water at 16 psi to 21 psi and that is for base and metallic. also the Iwata likes to be no more than 6 inches from the panel and moved slow.
Most painters are not used to that and cannot change their spray style. that is why when we convert a shop to water it takes about 3weeks of hitting them in the head with a mixing stick to get them to change their style.
that is why so many guns.......so you can force one to adapt to your style.....lol
 

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i dont know, it has been a few years since i bought my iwatas. I read up on the guns several different places including the iwata forums and got that same info from several sources.


Thats why i ended up getting a lph400 lvx for base. Its not much of an issue when compaerd to the regular LV (silver cap)

But i wouldnt mind picked up either a super nova or sata 3000 later this year. Ill let some others try this new iwata out before i decide :cool:
 
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