Any one have the new iwata gun? My jobber is going to drop off a iwata ls400 super nova so i can try out ..Cant wait to see how it lays down silvers.I have a hard time with silvers
I seen it priced around $550.00 one site said $518.00 and another said $589.00Originally posted by sic713@Feb 9 2010, 02:52 PM~16562136
i seen a brochure at my local store..
keep us posted.. thats gun looks bad ass..
anyone know the price tag on it
cool.. pretty sure i can get it for 500 thenOriginally posted by pi4short@Feb 9 2010, 04:10 PM~16562973
I seen it priced around $550.00 one site said $518.00 and another said $589.00
I've never used my Iwata LPH for base only clear, but i've heard that they arent so great.. it's an awesome clear gun but I use my devilbiss GTI for baseOriginally posted by jcclark@Feb 9 2010, 05:17 PM~16563582
I use an LPH-400 for all my clears, it's a fantastic clear gun but I don't like it
much for base, especially silvers. I had a lot of striping with it, I have read
lots of others having the same problem on other forums so it's not just me.
I even got a special base cap and still no difference.
I just don't think it's a good base gun. I still use my el-cheapo Astro for base
and it does so much better, but for clear, the Iwata rules.
A lot of Iwata users turn the pressure up to about 25 psi at the gun to help
on spraying base, that's what my buddy does and he gets it to do alright.
I just use whats easier.
i do have the same problems with base..Originally posted by jcclark@Feb 9 2010, 05:17 PM~16563582
I use an LPH-400 for all my clears, it's a fantastic clear gun but I don't like it
much for base, especially silvers. I had a lot of striping with it, I have read
lots of others having the same problem on other forums so it's not just me.
I even got a special base cap and still no difference.
I just don't think it's a good base gun. I still use my el-cheapo Astro for base
and it does so much better, but for clear, the Iwata rules.
A lot of Iwata users turn the pressure up to about 25 psi at the gun to help
on spraying base, that's what my buddy does and he gets it to do alright.
I just use whats easier.n
I also heard that too... :wow: that shit is weird,,Originally posted by sic713@Feb 9 2010, 05:52 PM~16563935
i do have the same problems with base..
candies it works fine for me
Actually it seams like the opposite. At least that's been my experience with my iwatas. The slower let's it settle and metallics lay down.Originally posted by FlipFlopBox@Feb 9 2010, 09:28 PM~16565156
what do you mean by you have aproblem laying silvers? you talking about leaving tiger stripes? if so try laying the base out dryer, i like to do all my metallic bases like medium/dry and never ever have any problems with striping or any other metallic problems
i was thinking the same thing..over atomizing?Originally posted by Big Doe@Feb 9 2010, 03:57 PM~16564728
It just breaks the paint up very well. So clears and candies lay down great. But it breaks the metallic up too much for silvers and others. I use the lph400 with the orAnge cap for base and it's a great gun. I wouldn't mind checking out this new one though.
shooting bases 2 dry will lead to modeling..try playing with your reducers...if you tack rag your base and it comes off on to the rag its not stable and should be shot more wet thats why most bc call for a med wet coatOriginally posted by FlipFlopBox@Feb 9 2010, 04:28 PM~16565156
what do you mean by you have aproblem laying silvers? you talking about leaving tiger stripes? if so try laying the base out dryer, i like to do all my metallic bases like medium/dry and never ever have any problems with striping or any other metallic problems
Yup that's exactly what happens.Originally posted by gramma@Feb 10 2010, 04:05 PM~16573293
i was thinking the same thing..over atomizing?
Look it up. It even says on the iwata forums that it over atomizes the metallics.Originally posted by The CadiKingpin@Feb 10 2010, 09:05 PM~16576419
There is really no way to over atomize the paint.Most reducers are made up of 3 types of solvents,frontal,mid,&tail.Frontal does the job of getting it out of the gun,mid helps with the transfer to the surface,tail helps with the coverage on the car ie...metallics and pearls.Cheap reducers leave out some of these solvents in order to be cheaper than a competitors.The higher priced solvents are worth the money in the long run.Remember that the temp of the solvent will only work within a certain temp range.You can use a slower solvent with metallics and pearls to get the color to melt in properly,try not to use in too cool of a spray temp-may cause wrinkling,darker shade and even fisheye if the car sheetmetal is too cold.Not trying to step on anyones toes,just trying to put some info out.
Originally posted by gramma@Feb 10 2010, 03:11 PM~16573348
shooting bases 2 dry will lead to modeling..try playing with your reducers...if you tack rag your base and it comes off on to the rag its not stable and should be shot more wet thats why most bc call for a med wet coat
I must say 2 each is own..ive seen guys do some crazy shit come out cherry..how? i dont know..I can see too wet striping and shit but the only time i shoot little on the dry side is if a blend isnt going in then i bump my pressure and speed it up to lighten the silverOriginally posted by FlipFlopBox@Feb 10 2010, 05:36 PM~16577501
i never have any problems what so ever laying any metallics, i lay all my bases at a medium dry not medium wet, but i guess everyone does it there own way. laying out metallics to wet gave me problems with modeling and striping, when the tech rep showed me once how he did it i never had a problem since