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Discussion Starter #1
if Silver flake is used in patterns over a silver base and the kandy over the top will it still act the same as flake in a clear coat on top of the kandy except be the correct shade of kandy or will the flake effect be lost ??

I plan on having my car painted in the following steps but need to know if its correct:

1) shimrin silver base coat then sealed.
2) mask up patterns and paint blocks pin stripes and also paint some patterns in coarse flake (100% coverage).
3) seal the lot
4) very light coating of mini-flake over the whole car
5) paint the 6 coats of kandy
6) clear.

is this right ? i want to be able to see the coarse flake patterns under the candy or should i just get kandy 'close' to the colour and put i over the top ??

Its very confusing !!!

I'M not painting my car myself but need to be 100% with the process to help my painter as much as possible.
 

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After spraying the flake you should cover with more clear and then color sand to get all of the texture out before spraying candy. Sometimes when you spray candy directly over the flake, the color can can build up around the flake causing darker candied spots around the flake. Dont' get me wrong, you can spray directly over the flake but this way is safer.
 

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Originally posted by TraditionalLowriding@Jul 24 2005, 10:19 AM
After spraying the flake you should cover with more clear and then color sand to get all of the texture out before spraying candy. Sometimes when you spray candy directly over the flake, the color can can build up around the flake causing darker candied spots around the flake. Dont' get me wrong, you can spray directly over the flake but this way is safer.
[snapback]3469082[/snapback]​
Thats sounds interesting, and it's allways better to be save then sorry................Though I've never had that problem when laying candy right over flake, but then again, I mostly add my flake in the first 1 or 2 coats of candy anyway.... :dunno:



As for the steps.....it sounds all good :thumbsup:

though you could skip step 3, and just go straight to laying down the mini flake right after unmasking your patterns......this will keep your build down........remember, one of the most important things to pay attention to when doing candies, is the build........you don't whant your overall paint job too thick and chipping later.......Candy paint jobs take allot of coats and levels, doing what ever you can to keep the number of coats and layers to a minimun is allways a good idea. Here are some tips that help me out....

I don't use orion silver as a base, or any other base for that matter
I use HOK koseal II silver sealer......It seals and gives me the silver base I need. Any patterns that will be done, I try to do on the same day so I won't have to seal with clear and come back another day. Also, Flake, will be mixed in the first 2 coats of candy, then burried by the next 4+ coats to come, then finely cleard.

This will get rid of 3 levels, and mulitble coats of material, yet there will be virtualy no defrence in the end product, and you will have spent less $$, less time, and have less of a risk of chipping in the future ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thats sounds cool. So your sayingfor the mini flak, the flake will react the same even though its 'silver' and mixed in the candy rather than applying a coloured flake over the top.
The reason i was asking for a base and then a sealer was because masking the patterns up will take me a long long time. I thought it would buy me all the time i need until i am really happy with the patterns.

any more info or thoughts is greatly appreciated as the paint will make or break my car.
 

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Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC@Jul 24 2005, 11:58 AM
Thats sounds interesting, and it's allways better to be save then sorry................Though I've never had that problem when laying candy right over flake, but then again, I mostly add my flake in the first 1 or 2 coats of candy anyway.... :dunno:
As for the steps.....it sounds all good :thumbsup:

though you could skip step 3, and just go straight to laying down the mini flake right after unmasking your patterns......this will keep your build down........remember, one of the most important things to pay attention to when doing candies, is the build........you don't whant your overall paint job too thick and chipping later.......Candy paint jobs take allot of coats and levels, doing what ever you can to keep the number of coats and layers to a minimun is allways a good idea.  Here are some tips that help me out....

I don't use orion silver as a base, or any other base for that matter
I use HOK koseal II silver sealer......It seals and gives me the silver base I need.  Any patterns that will be done, I try to do on the same day so I won't have to seal with clear and come back another day.  Also, Flake, will be mixed in the first 2 coats of candy, then burried by the next 4+ coats to come, then finely cleard.

This will get rid of 3 levels, and mulitble coats of material, yet there will be virtualy no defrence in the end product, and you will have spent less $$, less time, and have less of a risk of chipping in the future ;)
[snapback]3469199[/snapback]​
:thumbsup:
 

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Originally posted by Unity_Jon@Jul 25 2005, 02:39 AM
thats sounds cool. So your sayingfor the mini flak,  the flake will react the same even though its 'silver' and mixed in the candy rather than applying a coloured flake over the top.
The reason i was asking for a base and then a sealer was because masking the patterns up will take me a long long time. I thought it would buy me all the time i need until i am really happy with the patterns.

any more info or thoughts is greatly appreciated as the paint will make or break my car.
[snapback]3473067[/snapback]​

Even when using an actual base, you'r respray window is still reletivly short.......If you think you will need more then a day to lay the silver and patterns, then do the silver sealer and then.......

1. Apply 1 wet coat of clear to seal it, come back the next day and simply scuff it and start masking out your patterns (easest)

OR

2. Apply 2 wet coats of clear to seal it, come back the next day and blocksand it flat with 400-600, and start masking out your patterns (for best resolts) ;)

When doing custom patterns or art work..........time is a huge factor..........at the end of any day, any base that has been sprayed needs to be sealed in clear befor calling it a day.

For biggeners or for complecated art work........it's best to lay down your base and clear it one day........scuff and mask out any patterns the next day, then come back and start painting the patterns the day after that........this gives you plenty of time to finish painting all the patterns befor having to clear them at the end of the day.
 
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