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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I'm pretty new to the model scene.......I used to build them years ago but just recently returned. So for project #1.....The 90'd coupe. After reading the post about stripping the car from BigPoppa.....my Lac is now stripped awaiting aircraft remover. Here's the thing.....I need some help from everyone. I will be using the car as a hopper but will also be keeping the interior. As far as suspension, what is better, T-slider setup or the U-bar setup? I will get pics up soon to keep everyone updated.
 

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Originally posted by BumperKit@Aug 19 2005, 07:07 PM~3659699
Well, I'm pretty new to the model scene.......I used to build them years ago but just recently returned. So for project #1.....The 90'd coupe. After reading the post about stripping the car from BigPoppa.....my Lac is now stripped awaiting aircraft remover. Here's the thing.....I need some help from everyone. I will be using the car as a hopper but will also be keeping the interior. As far as suspension, what is better, T-slider setup or the U-bar setup? I will get pics up soon to keep everyone updated.

ubars are best for hopping, and t-sliders are best for dancing. But if you want to hop the front go with a ubar setup. And if you want to 3-wheel the rearend and have a little side-to-side, put a t-slider in the rear. You should be able to hide 3 motors in the trunk area, but if you have too, you should be able to hide a motor or two in the front engine bay area. If you have them in the trunk area and/or engine bay, you'll beable to keep the interior like you want.

:biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
One more question.......for a diecast car what would be the best motors to use because of the weight?
 

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Originally posted by BumperKit@Aug 20 2005, 03:36 PM~3662917
One more question.......for a diecast car what would be the best motors to use because of the weight?
to hop the front use a "Big Bad Johnson" motor. If your going to just put a ubar in the back then use two big bads. BUT if you are going to use a t-slider in the rear, there are some smaller johnson motors that would work fine. I would stay away from 130 motors *small square motors*, most of them will not work for what you are doing.

:biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I appreciate all the help. I will have some chassis pics up tomorrow.
 

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If you want to lock the rear of the car in order to do some massive hopping try the knot technique. I think you can use 130's for that trick on 6V you also need dental floss line use 4 to 6 lines bundled together for extra tear strenght it should last for quite a while.

Instead of letting the lines wind around the motors shaft make it stick out at the outside of the collar. What will happen is that when you hit the switch the motor starts to spin and it winds tiny knots in the line making it shorter and lifting the modelcar and finally locks it. Try it I'm almost certain it will work on diecast cars to.
Your still be able to make the car dance but you will have to get used to flicking the switches back and forth because the cars lifts and locks when the motor runs back and forth. Also give the lines some slack aprox. 1.5cm.

Finally check my small video clip:The way of the knot.
Check this flick a couple of times to see how it works.
Enjoy and good luck!!

The way of the Knot
You need Real player installed to view this video.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well....I decided on a paint color....

The wheels are now black......when it's time for the body it will be a dark grey body, black euro mouldings, and a black vinyl top. I should have pics up later tonight of the chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
By the way...anyone know where I could possibly find a continental kit?
 

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Originally posted by BumperKit@Aug 21 2005, 07:38 PM~3665819
By the way...anyone know where I could possibly find a continental kit?
try one of a kind on here
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well....sorry for the bad pic I will get a better one tomorrow. Today I stripped the body, primed, then painted the base color...keep in mind that I still need to paint the roof, side mouldings, and then clear the entire car......like I said, the pic isn't that great but it will give you the idea so far...
 

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Originally posted by BumperKit@Aug 22 2005, 01:34 AM~3667158
Well....sorry for the bad pic I will get a better one tomorrow. Today I stripped the body, primed, then painted the base color...keep in mind that I still need to paint the roof, side mouldings, and then clear the entire car......like I said, the pic isn't that great but it will give you the idea so far...
Hey look, you finally got yourself a euro caddy! :biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Originally posted by SouthCentralTrueBlue@Aug 22 2005, 12:07 PM~3669615
Hey look, you finally got yourself a euro caddy! :biggrin:

Whats up Fred.......long time no hear.....DONT BE HATIN ON MY LAC...

Dont worry.....I'll make a South Central plaque for it.... :biggrin:
 

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Originally posted by BumperKit@Aug 22 2005, 09:24 PM~3671257
Whats up Fred.......long time no hear.....DONT BE HATIN ON MY LAC...

Dont worry.....I'll make a South Central plaque for it.... :biggrin:
i'm not hatin, congratulating :biggrin:
 

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Originally posted by BumperKit@Aug 22 2005, 02:34 AM~3667158
Well....sorry for the bad pic I will get a better one tomorrow. Today I stripped the body, primed, then painted the base color...keep in mind that I still need to paint the roof, side mouldings, and then clear the entire car......like I said, the pic isn't that great but it will give you the idea so far...
dat shyt lookin good meng..
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Originally posted by Cadi Luva@Aug 22 2005, 06:10 PM~3671832
dat shyt lookin good meng..

I appreciate it.....not much progress.....finally painted the euro mouldings and I will spray clear tomorrow.
 
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