Wow just read all 23 pages. Awesome info in here! :thumbsup:
Why don't you just worry about your standard offset wheels and being a groupie of the Majestics. Since when are you the authority on engine building. Call a midwesterner for Lowrider building advice said no one ever.2017 same rules apply...if its not a OG resto...FUEL INJECTION or You faking......No carbs on cut Cars.
Troll fishing is so Fun.....see I caught another one. Calm down little fella.....I'm going to throw You back in...Why don't you just worry about your standard offset wheels and being a groupie of the Majestics. Since when are you the authority on engine building. Call a midwesterner for Lowrider building advice said no one ever.
I actually dropped mine in to the notch which is why I needed to notch it 1 clear and 2 get the 3deg driveline angle.My '61 Bubbletop is running, and currently at the interior shop. I've went through each post on this thread, looking to see what folks have done with motor mounts, and driveline angle.
During my build, I participated in some forum topics on this, and it seems to be mixed. Several folks say it is absolutely necessary to notch the crossmember and lower the engine...in spite of having the Camaro pan with clearance (albeit not much)...in order to achieve the correct driveline angle and not have vibration at 60-65 mph.
Making a LONG story short, the problem I had with notching the cross member was that any of the motor mounts I could find would NOT drop the engine down. So, if you don't drop the engine down into the notch, what good is it to notch the cross member?
Reading through all posts here, I did not find anyone concerned about driveline angle, or mentioning vibrations due to that.
So, when I test drove mine up on the freeway, it seems that maybe I do have a bit of vibration. The test drive was before putting in the interior (as mentioned, at interior shop now), and so with the attending road noise etc, I'm not sure. What I particularly noticed was the power window motor in the passenger door would vibrate at about 62 mph - 65 or so. I measured and my driveline angle is 7 degrees, which is in fact too much from what I read.
What I have done to try to get a better angle: The original motor mount conversion purchased from Street and Performance were 1/2" thick and mounted the engine 1" forward. I changed to thinner motor mount conversion plates (trying to lower front of engine), as well as stock position (which resulted in having the mounts more forward on the engine...raising it less); raised back of transmission with 1" square tubing at motor mount (raised back of tranny 1"). That is giving me the 7 degrees.
I'm thinking once it's back from interior shop that unfortunately I will need to pull the engine and lower it. Need to do some more test drives.
This seemed like a good thread to ask in. Anyone have any thoughts?
What mounts did you use? My intention is to use dirty dingo plates for 3/4" forward position and old style sbc Blasck Magic mounts. I did notch the xmember diring the wrap, but not sire id its enough.I actually dropped mine in to the notch which is why I needed to notch it 1 clear and 2 get the 3deg driveline angle.
nice frame wanna sell it! or LMK who did it!What mounts did you use? My intention is to use dirty dingo plates for 3/4" forward position and old style sbc Blasck Magic mounts. I did notch the xmember diring the wrap, but not sire id its enough.
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Man Im building this shit if it kills me! Brent at pitbull did the frame. When you say "non impala" plates from dd, you mean just the generic three position plates?nice frame wanna sell it! or LMK who did it!
I used cheap mount from ebay that had 3 set of bolt holes for different locations. the last 2 LS swaps i've done I used the dirty dingo mount(non impala), it lets you put the motor right where you need based on your car. Its hard to tell as every car is different. BRP Hotrods sells a LS swap kit that states you won't need to notch. or you could go with the dirty dingo mount and shim accordingly if you do need make some clearance.