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This is all I can find, maybe the colors are the same at the amp...

1995-96 Chrysler Sebring
Constant 12V+ Red
Switched 12V+ Blue
Ground Black/Yellow
Illumination n/a
Dimmer Green/Yellow
Antenna Left Rear
Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors
Left Front (+) White/Blue
Left Front (-) Black/Blue
Right Front (+) White/Red
Right Front (-) Black/Red
Rear Speakers 6" x 9" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+) Yellow/Blue
Left Rear (-) Gray/Blue
Right Rear (+) Yellow/Red
Right Rear (-) Gray/Red
 

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Originally posted by hearse@Sep 20 2007, 11:54 AM~8832301
kinda. one was asking how to test the stock amp. this ones is how to bypass it and take it out :dunno:
Unhook everything then just rewire it all if you mean you just wanna use a different amp.

:biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i cant rewire the doors cuz wires if odd. the wires go through the rubber but but everything is connectors not normal wires. i unhooked the amp and it was shot and all rust from the car flooding before i got it. the connector for the infinity amp has i think it was 17 wires i counted. anyone got anymore info on this setup? for now i just wanna run the stock headunit without the factory amp
 

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Discussion Starter #12
come on people i need help here.

chrysler sebring convertible. infinity amp under the passenger seats dead

I cut the harness off with enough wires to identify the colors on it. need to find out which wires go to what so i can have the radio control the speakers without the amp. i have the harness with me. every color code i've came across NONE match the wires identically.
 

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If you have cut the harness off already at the amp, simply use a 9v battery on each set until you hear the corresponding speaker pop...

Use a DMM up front on the h/u harness and do the same thing until you get voltage...

It's a little more complicated than this, but I do it all the time, but I make use of a RF wire tracer that costs several hundred dollars after using a 9v for years...

That's all I know to tell you other than getting the FULL mechanics service guide to your car...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Originally posted by Brahma Brian@Sep 25 2007, 06:29 PM~8868842
If you have cut the harness off already at the amp, simply use a 9v battery on each set until you hear the corresponding speaker pop...

Use a DMM up front on the h/u harness and do the same thing until you get voltage...

It's a little more complicated than this, but I do it all the time, but I make use of a RF wire tracer that costs several hundred dollars after using a 9v for years...

That's all I know to tell you other than getting the FULL mechanics service guide to your car...
heres the thing though. once i do that how do i tell which wires are comming from the radio that go to each speaker :( i was gonna run all new wires. the back would be easy but the way the doors are is fucked. instead of normal wires goin through the loom theres connectors that connect the door to the car :uh:
 

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Originally posted by hearse@Sep 25 2007, 07:49 PM~8868942
heres the thing though. once i do that how do i tell which wires are comming from the radio that go to each speaker :( i was gonna run all new wires. the back would be easy but the way the doors are is fucked. instead of normal wires goin through the loom theres connectors that connect the door to the car :uh:
Find the two wires that make the speaker in the door pop, or move if you can see them, it may require two sets of eyes...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
got everything workin...well good enough anyways. come to find out only the doors and dash are hooked to the amp it seems. i found a schematic online after searchin for a while. it was half ass right. so the doors and back 6x9s work now. I said fuck it and didnt bother trying to get the dash tweeters workin.
 
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