Honestly there's not a whole lot to spraying flake. First off make sure you have your base near perfect (no imperfections). Than make sure you have a good spray gun...it does'nt have to be one of the top of the line guns but make sure the flake your using can go through the nozzle. And when your spraying make sure you have something to aggittate (sp?) the flake or it will settle at the bottom of your cup (if your using a siphon gun). Once you have your flake sprayed be sure to do some sanding to cut down any flakes standin up on there side and what not. ONce you have all the flakes cut down spray another coat of clear or two and that is pretty much it.....Now I am not a "expert" painter so I may be wrong on some of the things I just said but I am pretty sure I covered most of the steps..
okay well i have answered this question a few times before but since it is for your child i will do it again..........first of all you should not need too much material since it is just a bike-----make sure that it is prep properly before going foward--------you want to shoot the frame in a base color----i only use silver---then you want to make sure the you have flakes which are the same color as your base----you mix 4oz of flake per 1 quart of clear----now one spray gun cup is a quart....i don't think you will need more that one cup to do a bike---unless you want a complete "solid" flake job which is difficult but might take alittle more material------as far as the gun goes i use a binx #7 w/ a large tip-----it sprays everything-----okay so you have the base on....now as far as the flake goes just make sure that you have even coverage all around...don't shoot it at too high of a presure ---i usually use between 30-40 psi-----don't get too close or it will bounce off and the clear will run......just use even strokes..oh and too keep it from settling just put your finger over the nozzle hole and pull back the trigger---that will force air down into the cup and spin the flake around so it stays suspended ...once you have all your flake on make sure you let it flash well..... now you have to seal the flake in clear----you want to put the first couple of passes on dry-----this will seal the flakes and keep most you them buried------the hardest part about the flake job is not laying them down flat and not leaving the surface all bumpy......so you want to make sure that you bury them pretty good---take your time and make sure you let each coat flash properly before you go on--- you might end up w/ sone flakes standing up but you can cut these off when you wet sand----------make sure that you don't shoot on a really windy day and watch out for static electricity--------once you got it all down then let it cure for at least a few days and then cut w/ 600 wet and dry---if it still is not flat them add more clear and continue until it is completely flat ------after that comes your "candy"-----------hope that helps ---good luck on the project...hope all comes out well for your child-----oh by the way----------flake is very very very messy---you are going to have it everywhere-----so if your child is anything like my daughters he/she will want to be right there around you--------keep your child safe---peace---pm me if you need any more info---------lates bro
You could also try ,,
I keep the pressure right up and wind the fluid feed right in only about 2 turns out ,, Sometimes this gives you a bit more control with a 1.8-2.0 nozzle and allows you to wet it up and flatten out the flake better and still atomize well ,, just a bit different technique.. Maybee try out a little test panel first ..
but I shouldn't of said flattened out your '' DEAD RIGHT '' that was DEAD WRONG ,,
what I should of said IS .....
That using A bigger size tip people tend to pull back with their gun on applying their clear and lower the pressure to get smaller wetter droplets which in affect atually gives them a more uneven building of clear and uneven flake stand ,, and will also cause more shrinkage because of the solvent content from poor atomization and bigger tip ,, that will in fact '' NOT '' stabilize the flake properly..
The best way to apply flake is to simply keep your pressure to the required gun pressure pull you feed in so Its only 2-3 turns out from full in ,, this will give better atomization on the big size tip and will actually help stabilize your flake better because of the smaller mollecules of paint (due to proper atomization) ,, which will solidify faster and hold your flake in place better and make it possible to fully build the film up so that the flake slightly lays in to your clear ,, this won't shrink back as much around the flake due to the better release of solvent and atomization ,, and will also cause less surface roughness because the flake has been evenly layed into the clear .. taking less coats of clear to cover .. and givin an even full brightness of the flake which will look much brighter than an unevenly layed flake and which will in fact also let you reduce the load of flake in the clear due to the better build and show of brightness givin you a much cleaner lower build job ..!!!!!!!!!
But you don't want all this technical mumble jumble ,, Just spray out a few little parts until you get a comfortable gun setting for you ..
Originally posted by sabre@Jul 25 2003, 01:36 AM You could also try ,,
I keep the pressure right up and wind the fluid feed right in only about 2 turns out ,, Sometimes this gives you a bit more control with a 1.8-2.0 nozzle and allows you to wet it up and flatten out the flake better and still atomize well ,, just a bit different technique.. Maybee try out a little test panel first ..
i wouldn't want to flaten the flake i would rather leave alot standing up and bury the shit with clear.........think about it if you have a bunch of BIG pieces of glitter.............for example.........
if you just lay the glitter completely flat on a table.....hit it with some direct light.......it will be bright as hell BUT move your head to the side and it is not as bright.............
now picture the glitter on laying flat and also standing up.........
with direct light no matter which way you turn your head it still sparkles
best way i can explain it.......i agree with lowriderlife
Sorry SWITCHCRAFT ,, bUt did you read my second post ,, LOL ,, The first desription I gave was meant to say to get the clear flattened out NOT THE FLAKE I didn't explain ,, write properly ,,
If you BOTHERED to read my second post it actually desribed how it stabilizes the flake STANDING UPRIGHT better than any other method and still get your clear FLAT because the more even application,,
Lower pressure will flaten flake more than high pressure ..
Instead of takin sides why don't you go try It and then tell me how you made out .. :biggrin:
Originally posted by sabre@Jul 28 2003, 04:05 PM Sorry SWITCHCRAFT ,, bUt did you read my second post ,, LOL ,, The first desription I gave was meant to say to get the clear flattened out NOT THE FLAKE I didn't explain ,, write properly ,,
If you BOTHERED to read my second post it actually desribed how it stabilizes the flake STANDING UPRIGHT better than any other method and still get your clear FLAT because the more even application,,
Lower pressure will flaten flake more than high pressure ..
Instead of takin sides why don't you go try It and then tell me how you made out .. :biggrin:
because an uneven wetting pattern will cause flakes to sit in uneven and not stand all the same way causing lumpiness and uneven brightness ,, 'layed' being an expression of laying paint on even not flooding and flattening ,,..
The only way to see if it works is for you to try it .. c'mon if you paint you should have a bit of flake lying around grab your gun and try it on a small part ,, ..
I use a conventional high pressure debilviss JGA fo flake and use this on 45PSI at the gun with a gauge,, which is what it is rated for .. My gun I use for b/c is an Iwata w400 which takes much more air but is set on 41PSI at the gun ,,... each gun uses a different PSI and CFM and needs to be set accordingly ..
Originally posted by sabre@Jul 29 2003, 03:50 PM I use a conventional high pressure debilviss JGA fo flake and use this on 45PSI at the gun with a gauge,, which is what it is rated for .. My gun I use for b/c is an Iwata w400 which takes much more air but is set on 41PSI at the gun ,,... each gun uses a different PSI and CFM and needs to be set accordingly ..
see that is not that high of a pressure-----i use the same pressure but i use a binx #7---i always have the compressor all the way up and then cut it at the gun w/ a pressure gauge-- however i have a trick for flake on the last pass-------the trick helps to get some flake standing in all angels and will then be partially covered w/ straight clear and the rest cut off when wet sanded--you get lots of shine this way------peace
Last edited by lowriderlife at Jul 30 2003, 07:00 AM
This is a candy .. !! You can see that some of the flake are lying over each other and others are spread right appart with almost nothing in between ..
and I don't notice it sparkling on every angle ..??????? only where the light hits it ..
In the first photo you can even see down the side of the car in the darker area ,, close to the light where it is uneven and caused darker and lighter spots which looks like blotching and uneven application ..
you guys are crazy. different philosophies for different painters. i like the flake on the lincoln. the patterns are old school, not my flavor, but done really nice. a lot of work in a flake job, everyone has their idea of "right". do whatever works for you.
Originally posted by sabre@Jul 31 2003, 09:15 PM This is a candy .. !! You can see that some of the flake are lying over each other and others are spread right appart with almost nothing in between ..
and I don't notice it sparkling on every angle ..??????? only where the light hits it ..
In the first photo you can even see down the side of the car in the darker area ,, close to the light where it is uneven and caused darker and lighter spots which looks like blotching and uneven application ..
Originally posted by sabre@Jul 31 2003, 05:15 PM This is a candy .. !! You can see that some of the flake are lying over each other and others are spread right appart with almost nothing in between ..
and I don't notice it sparkling on every angle ..??????? only where the light hits it ..
In the first photo you can even see down the side of the car in the darker area ,, close to the light where it is uneven and caused darker and lighter spots which looks like blotching and uneven application ..
exactly the point---those shots are at "in-direct" light---------i will give you a shot when i get one w/ direct light--------it will blind you----the entire car is covered w/ flake and there is not spaces in between---o and by the way the flake will not sparkle unless light hits it in some way-----------and ya i do win best flake are patterns at alot of shows-----------peace
Originally posted by OrangeCounty58@Jul 31 2003, 05:40 PM you guys are crazy. different philosophies for different painters. i like the flake on the lincoln. the patterns are old school, not my flavor, but done really nice. a lot of work in a flake job, everyone has their idea of "right". do whatever works for you.
I DO BRO-------I JUST THINK IT'S FUNNY HOW PEOPLE USING "NEW" TECHNIQUES ALWAYS THINK THAT IT IS BETTER THAN THE OLD WAY----JUST BECAUSE MAYBE IT IS FASTER OR SOMETHING--HAHAHHAA---------NO BEEF BRO---PEACE :biggrin:
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