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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We are attempting to put a set up in a 98 town car. It was a used set up out of an s10. We are working on putting the front in first. 3 pumps..

Im wondering if the frame needs to be reinforced where the cylinder goes through. It has some "donuts", and im wondering if those go on the cylinder before it goes in the hole through the frame? And Do you just cut out the hole where the shock was bolted to so the cylinder can go through it and then the donut holds it from going through?

If anyone has some tips or info taht would be great too. I cant find any full write ups about putting the cylinders and stuff in.

I was also wondering what are the main stress points on these cars?
 

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Yes, donuts ride under the frame, that's where you get your lift from. The holes are usually cut through the frame where the shock is at. Make sure to get a hole saw that fits as close around the cylinder as you can, then cut it. Use plenty of oil too while cutting. As far as stress points, I think it would be the same as most everyones car that's lifted. Never worked on a town car, so maybe someone here can enlighten you..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. What do you mean get a hole saw, THEN cut it? And what is the oil for while cutting?

Also there is some things up in the frame to hole the spring in place, im guessing those should either be cut off or bent upwards so the donut can sit flat on the inside of the frame?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK some more questions.

What is the biggest cylinders that should be put in the front of the 98 town cars? He said one of the cylinders was prolly bad and also he said it looks like the two front cylinders are different sizes and he just wants to buy new front cylinders and get it over with.

What size coils should be put in the front?



Like i said were gona try and get the front installed first, then work on the back. But how do you do the rears with springs in the back? Do you still use power balls when you use coils in the rear? What holds the spring and all that from falling out between the axle and the cylinder? Cuz on the stock suspension the shocks hold the axle from going too far apart and that holds the springs in there so im wondering how it works with the cylinders and springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For the fronts, Do the coils just sit right where the stock springs used to sit on the lower arm?? Nothing holds them in there other than the cylinder, right?? Just want to make sure about that.
 

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The oil is to help cool and lube the area while your.cutting the hole. That's where the cylinder goes thru. The rear u can use both. Power ball or coil under. Whatever u want.
 

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We are attempting to put a set up in a 98 town car. It was a used set up out of an s10. We are working on putting the front in first. 3 pumps..

Im wondering if the frame needs to be reinforced where the cylinder goes through. It has some "donuts", and im wondering if those go on the cylinder before it goes in the hole through the frame? And Do you just cut out the hole where the shock was bolted to so the cylinder can go through it and then the donut holds it from going through?

If anyone has some tips or info taht would be great too. I cant find any full write ups about putting the cylinders and stuff in.

I was also wondering what are the main stress points on these cars?
If you are putting in a 3 pump set up and plan on three wheeling just wrap the whole car. you can get away with doing the corners but if you play with it eventually you will break something
 

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You should really wrap the whole frame, the newer town car frames are super weak, if u don't do the whole frame should atleast try to do the front crossmember, the front spring pocket area, the rainbows bottom side especially that will be the first to crack, and yes cut those tabs in the spring pocket, run some 2 ton springs up front if u don't do a full wrap with as many turns as u can so u don't have a stiff ass spring beating up that weak frame, I got 6 inch cylinders in mine and my homie got 8's in his so your choice...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well im telling he should do the whole frame, but i dont know how we could get taht done, dont know where or how we can get the whole body off the car. Can the motor stay in the car if we take the body off? CUz i assume you have to take the body off to completely wrap the frame..

How would one reinforce the pocket areas for the front cylinders also?

Im really gona see if he will just wrap the whole frame as i know hes gona want to hop this car and it wont last without a frame wrap.

Would 10's be too big in the front? I dont know what size the back are but they are pretty big, he wants it to go pretty high. But i know it wont go that high until alot of things get changed in the rear suspension as far as i know, but he plans to upgrade all that later on.

Well he wants to put springs in the back, but do you still use the powrballs when you use the springs or is that set up differently then?
 

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Full frame wrap is the way to go especially if ur gonna hop, on these frames there's certain areas u gotta do a little extra reinforcements, u can pull ur body off but have to get it high enough to roll the frame out if u don't pull the front end off, I pulled mine off, I don't see the point of running 10's in the front u can't get extend them all the way anyway, and if u run powerballs yes u still run springs but goes over the cylinder instead of under like the front, and ur gonna max out on the back with 10 inch cylinders do to the way the rear suspension is made, if u lift it too high ur drive shaft will rub the H part of the exhaust if its dual exhaust, in order to get a higher lift on the back u will have to go with a older lincoln frame or get u a 4 link kit from them guys on here hellraiser I think...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well hopefully he can do a full frame wrap then.. Is there even any way to do a frame wrap or reinforce the whole frame without taking the body off? Im guessing no, but wana make sure.

I guess 8's would be the way to go wtih the front cylinders then if you cant even extend the 10's fully.

Well it has the single exhaust so taht wont matter, but im sure it still isnt going to go very high..

Thanks for the replies.
 

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No u have to pull the body to do a full wrap frame, yea it won't go high in the back unless u put a older lincoln frame or a 4 link in the back...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Would an older lincoln frame bolt up to this body and everything or does that need to be modified in any way for this body?

So the back needs to be reinforced, where it holds the cylinders, right? Like the bridge or whatever its called. From one side of the frame to the other, to hole the cylinders.. Does anyone have some pics of something like that to get some ideas on how that would be done?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok so we cut the hole out and all that to put the cylinder on one side of the car. Now, the springs he got i think are way too short. (the old ones off the other vehicle) When you put the springs in, shouldnt be be somewhat compressed when you put the cylinder/cup on it and when you bolt the a-arm back up so taht the spring does not fall out? Cuz rigt now with that spring there is no compression on the spring, even when the a-arms are ALL the way up (where the wheel would be if the car was lowered all the way)

So im confused as to how the spring stays in there. Anyone know how many coils/turns the springs need to be for these cars??'

ANd just to make sure again. The donut for the cylinder sits UP inside the frame where the old spring did, where the little tabs held the spring in place. We cut those off. And it just all seems weird cuz i dotn see what the hell holds that spring in place cuz there is no compression.
 

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Ok so we cut the hole out and all that to put the cylinder on one side of the car. Now, the springs he got i think are way too short. (the old ones off the other vehicle) When you put the springs in, shouldnt be be somewhat compressed when you put the cylinder/cup on it and when you bolt the a-arm back up so taht the spring does not fall out? Cuz rigt now with that spring there is no compression on the spring, even when the a-arms are ALL the way up (where the wheel would be if the car was lowered all the way)

So im confused as to how the spring stays in there. Anyone know how many coils/turns the springs need to be for these cars??'

ANd just to make sure again. The donut for the cylinder sits UP inside the frame where the old spring did, where the little tabs held the spring in place. We cut those off. And it just all seems weird cuz i dotn see what the hell holds that spring in place cuz there is no compression.
just means the front is gonna sit real low, and theres a chance it will fall out, you can weld your cup to your spring and bolt the cylinder to the cup so the cylinder, cup and spring is all one piece so it wont fall out.
 
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