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Discussion Starter #1
Need dimensions for a slot port

3.8 cuft @ 33 Hz

You can see my trunk building thread that I have about 8" on either side of my sub to work with

I used one of those online calculators and got 6"H x 3"W x 5.22" L

That looks real small to me, so I come to the experts
 

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Originally posted by kannabis@Oct 1 2007, 04:51 PM~8909031
Need dimensions for a slot port

3.8 cuft @ 33 Hz

You can see my trunk building thread that I have about 8" on either side of my sub to work with

I used one of those online calculators and got 6"H x 3"W x 5.22" L

That looks real small to me, so I come to the experts
18sqin of port area.... im not too happy with that either... 30sqin sound better, or two 4" precision ports
 

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Discussion Starter #3
after some fiddling around with winISD and the square port symbol

3"H x 6"W x 11.66" L

Better?
 

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Originally posted by kannabis@Oct 2 2007, 01:20 AM~8912846
after some fiddling around with winISD and the square port symbol

3"H x 6"W x 11.66" L

Better?
That's still 18 sq. inches of port. You want your height and width dimensions of the port to give you around 30 when you multiply them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Originally posted by kannabis@Oct 1 2007, 11:20 PM~8912846
after some fiddling around with winISD and the square port symbol

3"H x 6"W x 11.66" L

Better?

This is exactly why this port bullshit doesn't compute in my head

How the fuck can 3x6x11 and 3x6x5 be the same port area??? grrrrr
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Originally posted by Sporty@Oct 1 2007, 06:32 PM~8910128
18sqin of port area.... im not too happy with that either... 30sqin sound better, or two 4" precision ports

why would 30 sqin sound better if the regular port formula says otherwise? I don't understand enough about this bullshit to say either way.

Why the 4" precision ports and not the 2" or 6"?

:angry: :angry: :angry:

This is getting me VERY frustrated....specially since I follow the asshole formula
 

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Originally posted by Brahma Brian@Oct 2 2007, 07:30 AM~8914010
You need to be shooting around 40sqin of port, I run about 55sqin of port for a single 15" in a 6cuft NET box...
Doesn't Fi recommend 12.5-16 sq. inches of port per cube? so wouldn't he be shooting for 47.5- 60.8 sq. inches if the box is 3.8 cubes?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Originally posted by themerc@Oct 2 2007, 04:05 PM~8917651
Doesn't Fi recommend 12.5-16 sq. inches of port per cube? so wouldn't he be shooting for 47.5- 60.8 sq. inches if the box is 3.8 cubes?

Where did you get this figure from?

I'm hoping that Scott from Fi can give me a 1 word answer to send me on my way since there seems to be some debate as to the proper porting of this sub...but so far he's been unavailable for comment.

Fuck I hate waiting when I got the desire to work...
 

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yeh, i drew up a box plan for two of the SSD15's and 4 4" flared ports where used and the owner loved it so, i dunno... i figure, try it, whats the worse that can happen, you have to build another box? thats nothin, you get the experience under your belt so you can help the next guy out when they have the same situation.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Originally posted by Sporty@Oct 2 2007, 07:01 PM~8918756
yeh, i drew up a box plan for two of the SSD15's and 4 4" flared ports where used and the owner loved it so, i dunno... i figure, try it, whats the worse that can happen, you have to build another box? thats nothin, you get the experience under your belt so you can help the next guy out when they have the same situation.

haha true true

To be completely honest it's been so long since I heard any decent system that I think anything would sound fantastic.

I'm going to wait another day and see what happens (got this question out on a couple forums out there just for shits and giggles)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have officially decided to go with a sealed box

It was suggested by someone on another forum, and since I found it to be completely against what everyone else says by default I needed to investigate more.

To make a long story short, there is no reason why it shouldn't sound great in a sealed box. That is assuming the specs on the Fi site are correct.
 

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Originally posted by kannabis@Oct 4 2007, 01:09 AM~8928597
I have officially decided to go with a sealed box

It was suggested by someone on another forum, and since I found it to be completely against what everyone else says by default I needed to investigate more.

To make a long story short, there is no reason why it shouldn't sound great in a sealed box.  That is assuming the specs on the Fi site are correct.
It will sound fine back in the trunk, but you aren't going to be happy with the output at all...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
can you elaborate a bit for me?

the last week or so I've been doing all sorts of reading about ports etc,. and by no means does that make me an expert, but the specs say it should work sealed.

Also, it seems that nobody is running these sealed...so how do people know?

and...there is also that 1 dude running a 15 SSD in a 2 cu.ft box. Scott made some comments about it on the Fi forums, others mentioned it sounded great.

:dunno:
 

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Originally posted by kannabis@Oct 4 2007, 03:31 PM~8931557
can you elaborate a bit for me?

the last week or so I've been doing all sorts of reading about ports etc,. and by no means does that make me an expert, but the specs say it should work sealed.

Also, it seems that nobody is running these sealed...so how do people know?

and...there is also that 1 dude running a 15 SSD in a 2 cu.ft box.  Scott made some comments about it on the Fi forums, others mentioned it sounded great.

:dunno:
When you develop, design and build a subwoofer, the materials that are used, mainly the spiders and other parts are all adjusted to the purpose of the driver,
most drivers such as Fi's drivers are designed and built to work in a ported enclosure, meaning running them sealed "chokes" the mechanical aspects of the design of the driver, hindering it's performance...

Does this mean it will not work, no it doesn't by any means...

What is DOES mean is that you will not achieve the output and sound for which the driver was designed to produce...

In short terms, to put the sub you have in a sealed box, is a severe waste of that subs potential...

Hope that clears things up a bit for you, it's hard to type all the info in my brain... :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That's about as good as an explanation as my brain can handle after my crash course

I guess we'll see what happens once it's done
 

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Originally posted by Brahma Brian@Oct 4 2007, 04:17 PM~8932735
When you develop, design and build a subwoofer, the materials that are used, mainly the spiders and other parts are all adjusted to the purpose of the driver,
most drivers such as Fi's drivers are designed and built to work in a ported enclosure, meaning running them sealed "chokes" the mechanical aspects of the design of the driver, hindering it's performance...

Does this mean it will not work, no it doesn't by any means...

What is DOES mean is that you will not achieve the output and sound for which the driver was designed to produce...

In short terms, to put the sub you have in a sealed box, is a severe waste of that subs potential...

Hope that clears things up a bit for you, it's hard to type all the info in my brain...  :cool:


The best explanation I have ever seen. I am going to quote this shit from now on!
 
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