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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
about 6 months ago my cousin (who is in the army) baught a 1979 Caprice Classic 2dr (it was nick named Solo 79) From what i can tell it has a CCE kit, but i know NOTHING about hydros...

Here is a picture of the setup (sorry about the crappyness of the pic, it was taken from my cell)


There isnt any model numbers on the pumps, and i have no documentation on them... All i know is there was 2 things inscribed in it "CCE" and i think "Max 30 PSI" they where a very small engraving on it...
my problem is, i need to (at least i think so) add some fluid to the pump as i heard some grinding the last time i put them up... but i have NO idea what to put in it.. some one told me ND30.. but i was unsure.. so i tried locating some info on the net.. but i cannot find anything, not even a manufacture website...

also ive noticed that when lowering it back down, it comes down kinda hard, is there a way of fix this?

Thanks in Advance
 

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10w30 or similar NON-DETERGENT motor oil. or tractor hydraulic oil.

yesa it woulld make a grinding noise if the tanks run out of oil before its all the way up. i guess from tryin to suck air and fluid mixed into the gear head?

thats the first time I've seen hardline plumbing on the standard 2 pump 4 dump top block return plumbing, I was thinking about producing kits like that because the short loops of hose are so ugly.

and if by coming down hard you mean too fast, the slowdown valves should be the only thing that resembles a knob or a water facet valve handle. they looks green in your pic?
 

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Originally posted by AndrewH@Aug 26 2006, 09:04 AM~6047502
10w30 or similar NON-DETERGENT motor oil.  or tractor hydraulic oil.

yesa it woulld make a grinding noise if the tanks run out of oil before its all the way up. i guess from tryin to suck air and fluid mixed into the gear head?

thats the first time I've seen hardline plumbing on the standard 2 pump 4 dump top block return plumbing, I was thinking about producing kits like that because the short loops of hose are so ugly.

and if by coming down hard you mean too fast, the slowdown valves should be the only thing that resembles a knob or a water facet valve handle. they looks green in your pic?
no motor oil is for your motor hydraulic oil is for hydraulics
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ah. Makes more sence. My cuz told me that the green nob controlled the power at which the hydralcis went up. Not down.
Does autozone carry that hydralic fluid?
 

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Originally posted by mikefletcher85@Aug 26 2006, 01:37 PM~6048677
Ah. Makes more sence. My cuz told me that the green nob controlled the power at which the hydralcis went up. Not down.
Does autozone carry that hydralic fluid?
I think they do just call and ask
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Originally posted by EL_PASO@Aug 26 2006, 07:48 PM~6049497
I think they do just call and ask
see thats the problem.. he baught the car.. has no knowledge of cars... it was just shiny... so he took it

also he does not have a way to contact the previous owner for any help, thats why i turned here

also does anyone have any info on the setup i have pictured in the original post? im kinda looking for specs, and a manual would be really nice.. or a repair/maintaince guide would be awesome... all i know is that it says CEE and Max 30 PSI on them, i can post more pics if needed

PS.. CCE's site really sucks, there is no info about the kit, and no email addy (i work during their busniess hours)
 

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car quest has aw-32 hydraulic oil, im sure more stores carry it also. the reason you dont just add any motor oil or trans fluid is because these carry detegents in them and will wear out the seals on a hydraulic system and cause leaks.

to add oil, first you need to fully dump the car, this will keep you from overfilling the tanks.

the only tool you will need will be an 8mm or 5/16" allen wrench and take the plugs out on the tanks. ( the tank plugs are the rearmost thing on the top of the pump.

add oil until it is just under the hole by about 1/4" and reinstall the plugs.
 

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Originally posted by mikefletcher85@Aug 28 2006, 06:15 PM~6062155
see thats the problem.. he baught the car.. has no knowledge of cars... it was just shiny... so he took it

also he does not have a way to contact the previous owner for any help, thats why i turned here

also does anyone have any info on the setup i have pictured in the original post? im kinda looking for specs, and a manual would be really nice.. or a repair/maintaince guide would be awesome... all i know is that it says CEE and Max 30 PSI on them, i can post more pics if needed

PS.. CCE's site really sucks, there is no info about the kit, and no email addy (i work during their busniess hours)
I don’t think they made a manual for it but you can look around here or go buy a book called "the science of hydraulic suspension" here’s a link about pump tear down and build up http://www.lowridermagazine.com/tech/0301lrm_hydraulic_pump/
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Originally posted by 81 FLEETWOOD@Sep 1 2006, 03:31 AM~6084344
where is he stationed at?

ft stewart, GA

i kinda gave up on getting it moving.. but now i just need to get it up a lil to get a flat bed under it to take it to a better storage facility... so my dad decided to charge the batteries.. and took off all the battery cables and forgot how they go back on... then we found that all 4 batteries are bad and will not hold charges... is it possible to hook up the pumps (one at a time) to just 1 battery just to get it up a lil bit? i would just try it.. but i dont wanna be to the one to try it
 

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mikefletcher85, here are a few tips not yet mentioned.


*When adding OIL, be sure the car is completely DUMPED or as far down as possible. This is because, if the car is mid way or all the way up and you top off the oil level and then lower the car you will have one heck of a mess in your trunk. The oil has to go somewhere.

* After you add the oil, you can use one battery or possibly two to raise the vehicle. OR, if you choose, you can use a jumper cable to a regular starter battery and tap it against the POST on the motor. Just be sure you connect the ground to any metal the PUMP is touching or mounted to. Then connect the POS on the battery, then DO NOT CONNECT THE JUMPER CABLE TO THE POS POST ONLY TAP IT and be sure not to touch the motors body, ONLY THE POST. Maybe wear saftey glasses because you'll have some sparks.

Here is a typical battery wiring for 36volts. The more batteries in SERIES, the faster the car lifts. 24 volt (two batteries) is a minimum for the DUMPS, the compoenets that lower the vehicle or let the fluid return to the tank..







Hope this helps,
Richard

AND thank you EL_PASO for the referal to the book :biggrin:
 
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