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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i got 2 15's visonik's in my ladies car.
ea. 15- 1000 watts 4 ohm single coil
my amps are 920watts butt there 2 ohms. i got two amps power acoustic.
what should i do.what advice is there to wire this positive advice only plz.
 

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Originally posted by PimPinD.com@Sep 7 2005, 10:11 AM~3767799
i got 2 15's visonik's in my ladies car.
ea. 15- 1000 watts  4 ohm single coil
my amps are 920watts butt there 2 ohms. i got two amps power acoustic.
what should i do.what advice is there to wire this positive advice only plz.
im assuming that the wattage of those visoniks your talking about is the peak power handling (1000watts peak power handling)?

which poweracoustik amp are you talking about, i dont know if your talking in wattsRMS or watts peak power...

so there are three things you need to do when you reply to this:

1) give us the RMS power handling of each sub
2)give us the RMS power rating of each amp
3)remember to be specific when giving wattage, just in case it slips the mind of someone to double check what your saying ,and not have you blow your shit up...

-qs
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
rms power subs 500.
amp 460 thats the rms
 

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Originally posted by PimPinD.com@Sep 7 2005, 10:47 AM~3767936
rms power subs  500.
amp 460  thats the rms

you will use both amps in this situation

you will run a 4guage wire from your battery to a fused distribution block, from there you will run 2 8guage power wires to run to both amps...

ground the amps of course before you connect the hot wire... those amps have a line out, so you can run rca's from the HU to one of them, then from the line out on that amp, run rca's to the low input on the other amp...

each sub will have its own amp, you will bridge each amp to its sub (look at the speaker terminals, there are pictures to show you how to bridge... it will be the positive from one channel to the negative of the other channel)... you will then connect the subs positive to positive, and negative to negative to their independent amplifiers... being that those amps are 4ohms stable when bridge, and your subs are 4ohms.... you will give each sub 460wattsRMS (which is the max that the amp can put out)...

and those amps are 820's not 920's

happy wiring...

(no internetional flaming, CW)

-qs
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the help.
 

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Originally posted by CuttieBuddie@Sep 7 2005, 08:51 AM~3767956
you will use both amps in this situation

you will run a 4guage wire from your battery to a fused distribution block, from there you will run 2 8guage power wires to run to both amps...

ground the amps of course before you connect the hot wire... those amps have a line out, so you can run rca's from the HU to one of them, then from the line out on that amp, run rca's to the low input on the other amp...

each sub will have its own amp, you will bridge each amp to its sub (look at the speaker terminals, there are pictures to show you how to bridge... it will be the positive from one channel to the negative of the other channel)... you will then connect the subs positive to positive, and negative to negative to their independent amplifiers... being that those amps are 4ohms stable when bridge, and your subs are 4ohms.... you will give each sub 460wattsRMS (which is the max that the amp can put out)...

and those amps are 820's not 920's

happy wiring...

now lets wait on brahma to second that...

-qs
now wait a min, what ohms is that amp putting out those 460 watts rms???????
 

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4ohms when bridged!!!! :biggrin:


i dunno why ppl are sleeping on the poweracoustik amps, i got the 820watt gothic series poweracoustik amp that does 460watts RMS x 1 @ 4ohms when bridged, and it beats the shit out of my kicker... i gotta be careful though because the 12" CVR can only handle 400watts RMS...

i also got the 300watt poweracoustik amp that does 70watts RMS x 2 @ 4ohms running to my front door speakers... i was a lil shacky at first about using that amp because it was so cheap and i never hear ppl hootin and hollerin about poweracoustik, but i was once again surprised at how clean it is, undistorted, and it runs cool too...

i got 4guage power wire splitting into 8guage wire running to both the 300watt amp and the 820 watt amp, and my batt stays a lil bit above 14 volts with no problem... im going to upgrade my "big three" soon, my headlights dim out on heavy bass drops but the batt never goes below about 13volts even if im sitting idle (i know it sounds like bull shit, but i dunno what to tell you if it does)...

i gotta admit, my entire system surprised me except for my redtop battery and panasonic headunit...

-qs
 

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Originally posted by CuttieBuddie@Sep 7 2005, 05:58 PM~3772084
4ohms when bridged!!!! :biggrin:
i dunno why ppl are sleeping on the poweracoustik amps, i got the 820watt gothic series poweracoustik amp that does 460watts RMS x 1 @ 4ohms when bridged, and it beats the shit out of my kicker... i gotta be careful though because the 12" CVR can only handle 400watts RMS...

i also got the 300watt poweracoustik amp that does 70watts RMS x 2 @ 4ohms running to my front door speakers... i was a lil shacky at first about using that amp because it was so cheap and i never hear ppl hootin and hollerin about poweracoustik, but i was once again surprised at how clean it is, undistorted, and it runs cool too...

i got 4guage power wire splitting into 8guage wire running to both the 300watt amp and the 820 watt amp, and my batt stays a lil bit above 14 volts with no problem... im going to upgrade my "big three" soon, my headlights dim out on heavy bass drops but the batt never goes below about 13volts even if im sitting idle (i know it sounds like bull shit, but i dunno what to tell you if it does)...

i gotta admit, my entire system surprised me except for my redtop battery and panasonic headunit...

-qs

THey are decent homie, but I have owned a few from the gothic series and the old Alien Area51 series (a few years ago) and they had very low capacitance, they were always draining.

The difference between a nice amp and cheap amp is not only the "watts" and how they are rated, but the major secret is capacitance within the amp I believe.
 

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i've had great luck so far with both amps... every day i sit in the truck and its not raining, my HU is on 35 out of 40 beating down the block...

and i have no issues with drainage except for the headlight when im sitting parked with the system bumpin (but that doesnt happen until like 14-15 min. pass i think), using 8guage to upgrade my big three will take care of that for sure though, i have everything i need and i know how to do it, i just dont have the time and patience to go outside and do it at the moment...

-qs
 

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Originally posted by S10laynframe@Sep 7 2005, 10:01 PM~3773687
THey are decent homie, but I have owned a few from the gothic series and the old Alien Area51 series (a few years ago) and they had very low capacitance, they were always draining.

The difference between a nice amp and cheap amp is not only the "watts" and how they are rated, but the major secret is capacitance within the amp I believe.
stop trying to use big words and act all intelligent, the word you were looking for was efficiency, not capacitance.
 

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Originally posted by CuttieBuddie@Sep 8 2005, 07:59 PM~3779744
i've had great luck so far with both amps... every day i sit in the truck and its not raining, my HU is on 35 out of 40 beating down the block...

and i have no issues with drainage except for the headlight when im sitting parked with the system bumpin (but that doesnt happen until like 14-15 min. pass i think), using 8guage to upgrade my big three will take care of that for sure though, i have everything i need and i know how to do it, i just dont have the time and patience to go outside and do it at the moment...

-qs

Sometimes you do not realize how bad a product is until you have some nice equipment to compare it to, atleast in my experience.
 

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Originally posted by S10laynframe@Sep 9 2005, 08:51 PM~3786017
Sometimes you do not realize how bad a product is until you have some nice equipment to compare it to, atleast in my experience.




Yeah cause my Kenwood KAC7201 steady bumps my Audiobahn AW1051X in their 4th or 5th order bandpass box. Seriously, its not super duper stereophonic junk but for what it is , it works , so does the sound dead-ner. I can make my rear view mirror move, thats gotta be worth somthin'. hahahaha ;) dont be hatin' jus' cause' Im pimpin :cool:
 

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Originally posted by lowsammy@Sep 9 2005, 10:49 PM~3786414
Yeah cause my Kenwood KAC7201 steady bumps my Audiobahn AW1051X in their 4th or 5th order bandpass box.  Seriously, its not super duper stereophonic junk but for what it is , it works , so does the sound dead-ner. I can make my rear view mirror move, thats gotta be worth somthin'. hahahaha      ;)    dont be hatin' jus' cause' Im pimpin    :cool:
eh, just cause your rearview mirror moves a lil, don't mean its a bumpin stereo, hell my stock stereo in my truck does that...lol, its when the mirror falls off and lands on the floor where the passengers feet go like in my brothers truck, when you know its loud(reg cab dodge dakota, 2 10's)
 

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Originally posted by lowsammy@Sep 10 2005, 12:49 AM~3786414
Yeah cause my Kenwood KAC7201 steady bumps my Audiobahn AW1051X in their 4th or 5th order bandpass box.  Seriously, its not super duper stereophonic junk but for what it is , it works , so does the sound dead-ner. I can make my rear view mirror move, thats gotta be worth somthin'. hahahaha      ;)    dont be hatin' jus' cause' Im pimpin    :cool:
my review-mirror doesnt even stay on the front windshield, i keep needing to tighten it down and then it just bends all the way down facing the ground (until it loosens again and falls off)...

and i just love driving through a parking lot and then when i park and turn everything off, all i hear is alarms...

-qs
 

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Originally posted by S10laynframe@Sep 9 2005, 11:51 PM~3786017
Sometimes you do not realize how bad a product is until you have some nice equipment to compare it to, atleast in my experience.
i understand that, dont get me wrong, the amps isnt no crossfire, or orion, but it DOES give the clean watts needed to make everything sound good...

im not saying i got a TOP DOG system, im saying that for my truck, it holds its own pretty good...

now if another truck run by with RE components, RE 12" sub, Re amplifier, then im gonna get shut down without question...


remember homie, im not a novice at this, i've heard, sampled, tested a "decent" number of products...

-qs
 

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my review-mirror doesnt even stay on the front windshield, i keep needing to tighten it down and then it just bends all the way down facing the ground (until it loosens again and falls off)...



thats cause ur nutz stink :uh: :0 :cheesy: :biggrin:
 

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Originally posted by lowsammy@Sep 10 2005, 05:13 PM~3789202
my review-mirror doesnt even stay on the front windshield, i keep needing to tighten it down and then it just bends all the way down facing the ground (until it loosens again and falls off)...
thats cause ur nutz stink :uh:  :0  :cheesy:  :biggrin:
surrrree...lol

sounds like my brothers truck, however, he has 8 year old pioneer 10's and a jensen amp, amazing what the right box's will when correctly designed with the cab of the vehicle and subs.
 

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Originally posted by draarong2004@Sep 11 2005, 02:00 PM~3792885
surrrree...lol

sounds like my brothers truck, however, he has 8 year old pioneer 10's and a jensen amp, amazing what the right box's will when correctly designed with the cab of the vehicle and subs.
tell me about it...

i dont know why lowsammy wanna try and clown me... its all good, karma is a bitch...

-qs
 

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Just playin homie :biggrin: I have respect for your (cuttiebuddy) opinions and a few others so please dont take me serious. I agree the right box and tightening up the rattles in your car have alot to do with sq in general. Remember Im running the Kenwood amp and AudioBauhn subs so my gear aint nothing to rave about...but it does sound good at the levels I listen to and it does hit alright. I do want to upgrade sometime soon........sound like everyone else to ;)
 
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