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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
okay,
So for the last decade I've been doing body work to my car. I've molded my side skirts in, shaved door handles, antenna, deck lid, turn signals, and gas door. No that I have all of thoughs objects as straight as I can get I have a few quistions for you all.

Q#1: While shaving all the objects I listed, blended and made them straight by feather eading of course. So I decided I wanted to do a color change and go from red to black. So I thought I must go to bare metal and shoot some high build primer and block and repeat again. Well I started to sand with 40 and tried some 80 and decided that IT TO MUCH DAMN WORK! So my quistion is. Can I sand a majority of the top coat and basecoat down and then just shoot high build?

Must I sand with 80 then 180 then shoot high build primer or with the first layer of high build primer be okay over 80?

At the point where feathereading meets paintjob. I finished off the feathereading with 180. Do I leave that area alone and sand around it with 80?

I jumped in the middle of this project and now I would like some help. I know someone is willing to help a homie out here....
 

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Originally posted by beyondstockcav@Aug 28 2005, 07:15 PM~3709650
I started to sand with 40 and tried some 80 and decided that IT TO MUCH DAMN WORK! 

Welcom to our world :biggrin: :uh: :(


Any way........You don't have to got down to metal in order to use highbuild primer.......if the surounding paint is the original basecoat and hasn't been painted over befor, and it's in good shape (not peeling or cracking)

The you can just scuff the paint laydown 3 wet coats of highbuild primer over the work area and surrounding area...........guid coat, then block sand.......it should level evrything out.....

From there you can sand the rest of the car, primer the whole car, quid coat, and block sand........and you'll be ready for paint. ;)


NOTE......If you did sand down to metal, use and epoxy sealer right befor the highbuild primer ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah I said fuck it and just sucked it up. Yeah my paintjob's clearcoat was pealing BAD so I figured I would just go straight to bare metal... while I am on the subject though let me ask this.

Or curves and crevecises such as the area in door jambs and in the trunk. Can I just scuff sand with 180 primer and paint? Thast what I"m going to do, plus I got so pissed that I'm just going to paint it jet black so my first time job wont stand out so bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
also what type of sanding tool do you all use? I have an air compressed blcok sander (they have a tech name but cant spell it) thats like a 14" long board that I've been using. I would say if I used a DA it would go a lot fast.... correct?
 

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Black or any other dark color is not a good idea sence the show imperfections the most.........go with white or metalic silver........they hide the most. ;)

As for sanding.......I do all block sanding by hand, ya it sucks, but you do get the best results that way.

On crevecises I try not to hit them with highbuild cuz you will have to sand them some what smooth........I mostly scuff with a red or grey 3M scotch pad befor sealer and paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah I new I had to block high build primer by hand, but to knock off all the paint to bare metal what do you all suggest? I always thought black showed the least about of mistakes? would a candy apple green with some flake be a decent hide? let me know
 

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For sanding down to metal, I use a 3M 80 grit sanding disk an orbital sander/buffer, Then a little by hand on those hard to reach areas.....on crevises I use chimical stripper
 
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