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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay it is sort of a loud click so I'm thinking
it is my motor are my batts I charge my batts and
I really don't think it is my motor cuz it was just
working when I went into the store and when
I came out and tried to hit a three it would not go up
all I heard was the click should I buy a new motor
anyway just to be on the safe side this pump goes to
the only noid block I have on my three pump set-up

thanks in advance solo ridah all in traffic staying in motion :0 :angry:
 

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are your batts. at full charge?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by robocon@Sep 9 2005, 05:43 PM~3785121
are your batts. at full charge?
Yeah they are I got two pumps going to the back and my other back pump is working I am going to check the batts but I'm sure they are charged
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Originally posted by luckyaz@Sep 9 2005, 06:44 PM~3785360
1 of your noid in the block went out if its on that pump ? thats wahat happen to mine
so just buy three more noids bro and I should be good if not then it is my motor? :cool:
 

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Originally posted by MRA@Sep 9 2005, 09:49 PM~3785405
so just buy three more noids bro and I should be good if not then it is my motor? :cool:
i have not had a bad motor yet :biggrin: but i dont think it would click , it would spin or nothin , and i only had to replace 1 noid, i moved the wire from the motor to the next noid to see witch one made it move up , does your car still dump ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Originally posted by luckyaz@Sep 9 2005, 06:54 PM~3785429
i have not had a bad motor yet  :biggrin:  but i dont think it would click , it would spin or nothin  , and i only had to replace 1 noid, i moved the wire from the motor to the next noid to see witch one made it move up , does your car still dump ?
Naw the driver side which is the side with the bad pump it do not go up but the other side does
 

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True-S Mike
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heres a quick trouble shoot.




take a pair of jumper cables, use one side ( say red ) on the forst battery in the seriese ( 12 volts ) the other side ( red also ) tap it on the cable end that goes straight to the motor. if it turns or makes a sound its the noid thats bad if it does NOTHING, its the motor.




more then likelly its the noids. while you have them off, make sure the nw ones are gonna be grounded good
 

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Sometimes solenoids act flakey if they have a bad ground on them. They''ll make a click noise and nothing else. It could be as something as stupid as that. I had it happen to me once, I didnt notice it but there was corrosion on the ground where my solenoid was mounted.. Made it act weird, and after a bit of cleaning went back to working just fine. (I didnt have my solenoids mounted on a ground bus bar, so that was why I had the issue). If you had a pic of your setup it would be helpful.
 

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Originally posted by luckyaz@Sep 9 2005, 05:44 PM~3785360
1 of your noid in the block went out if its on that pump ? thats wahat happen to mine

I think you have a loose ground or one of your noids went out like luckyaz said, hey lucky U notice at all if them noids in the three pack like in your pic go out more than just acc. noids that are sold single, cause I bought the series shit like u got in the pic and don't like em, seems as if they go out more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by Pimpin19@Sep 11 2005, 07:02 PM~3795092
I think you have a loose ground or one of your noids went out like luckyaz said, hey lucky U notice at all if them noids in the three pack like in your pic go out more than just acc. noids that are sold single, cause I bought the series shit like u got in the pic and don't like em, seems as if they go out more.
yea Insted of putting a new noid in the block I might as well buy three new noids but I will have to drill new hole for the three ne noids shit I really just want to replace the block but it may be to
dam expensive I don't know how much they are what do you guys think I should do?
 

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True-S Mike
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Originally posted by MRA@Sep 11 2005, 10:16 PM~3795476
yea Insted of putting a new noid in the block I might as well buy three new noids but I will have to drill new hole for the three ne noids shit I really just want to replace the block but it may be to
dam expensive I don't know how much they are what do you guys think I should do?
forget about the block and drill holes. its not as bad as you think. lne 3 of them up, mark where the holes need to be, use a center punch, then drill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Originally posted by juggalo4life@Sep 12 2005, 06:12 AM~3797062
forget about the block and drill holes. its not as bad as you think. lne 3 of them up, mark where the holes need to be, use a center punch, then drill.
okay cool :cool:
 

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no more solenoid blocks :thumbsdown: ,lol ive had nothing but bad luck with those things
 

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im having the same problem but ive replaced my solenoids already. and the same shit just clicking.im going to replaced the motor next.
 

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True-S Mike
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are any of you using a jumper cable to trouble shoot?


alot cheeper then replacing shit that dont need replaced........ my 2 pennies anyway.
 

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I tried trouble shooting with this method but voltage was reading at all times from all solenoids:

How do I know which solenoid is out on my car so that I don’t have to change them all?

The first thing to do is remove the cable going from the solenoid to your motor. Now, connect the ground and use a volt meter. Place the negative of the volt meter to ground (metal) and positive to the stud on the solenoid. Hit the switch. Power should read on the volt meter all the way through on each stud of each solenoid. If one doesn’t, that is the solenoid that’s bad.

At first it was only the back pump on mine too. Then after messing with it some, all I got was a click from the solenoids to the front pump too. WTF?? All connections are tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Originally posted by OC*SS@Sep 12 2005, 04:05 PM~3800331
I tried trouble shooting with this method but voltage was reading at all times from all solenoids:

How do I know which solenoid is out on my car so that I don’t have to change them all?

The first thing to do is remove the cable going from the solenoid to your motor. Now, connect the ground and use a volt meter. Place the negative of the volt meter to ground (metal) and positive to the stud on the solenoid. Hit the switch. Power should read on the volt meter all the way through on each stud of each solenoid. If one doesn’t, that is the solenoid that’s bad.

At first it was only the back pump on mine too.  Then after messing with it some, all I got was a click from the solenoids to the front pump too.  WTF??  All connections are tight.
yeah can I run this test on a blocK (noid)
 

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Originally posted by OC*SS@Sep 12 2005, 05:05 PM~3800331
I tried trouble shooting with this method but voltage was reading at all times from all solenoids:

How do I know which solenoid is out on my car so that I don’t have to change them all?

The first thing to do is remove the cable going from the solenoid to your motor. Now, connect the ground and use a volt meter. Place the negative of the volt meter to ground (metal) and positive to the stud on the solenoid. Hit the switch. Power should read on the volt meter all the way through on each stud of each solenoid. If one doesn’t, that is the solenoid that’s bad.

At first it was only the back pump on mine too.  Then after messing with it some, all I got was a click from the solenoids to the front pump too.  WTF??  All connections are tight.

lol,when i used the ford style solenoids or presto's,id take off each one and shake them and listen for a rattle and that was the one that was bad,i dunno if anyone else does that but worked for me...
i gave up useing those solenoids though cause they were usually burning up or clicking or sticking so i went with them big rebuildable solenoids and never had a problem,i still never had too rebuild them i think going on 2 years or 3 lona's and pro hopper carry them i also heard they were diesal solenoids?

reason for solenoids screwing up,low batterys and hitting the switch on them causes arc weld inside were it will arc together too the disc and shaft will stick too it leaving you with constant power too your hydro motor,always good too have a full charge,usually when you have a battery thats bad you will hear it clicking or make a machine gun sound constantly clicking,check all grounds too,best too ground on rack
 
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