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Yes, the topic has been deleted and we`re starting over. This will be the final topic were pics wont vanish after a few weeks (i hope).



this is the project, a 79 cutlass supreme



Last edited by Joost.... at Dec 2 2003, 11:50 AM
 

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taking out the interior




when you do this, put some tape or paper or whatever on the windows. I didnt do it, and nothing happened, so i guess i was lucky, but i was cutting some car in the junkyard for a friend and those sparks hit the windows and they got all black and nasty, so protect them!




I`ve cut out the centre part of the rear dash. This is were the minibar will go. Some reinforcements will be made later on, because if you do this, theres a chance of breaking the rear window when 3wheeling.




Removing rust






2 coats of black anti-rust paint were applied. I remember someone asking if that was sprayed on, but its done with a brush, doesnt have to be smooth because you wont see anything when its done.




the minibar, i just made it as big as possible, i dont measure alot, i dont draw too many plans, all from the eye and the mind



Its build from MDF 12mm (i think thats like 1/2 inch or something) and 1mm plywood which can be bend pretty easily.



the bottom of the backseats. No these are not holes to put amps in or anything like that, but the more space under the seat, the more you can do to make it comfertable.



Last edited by Joost.... at Dec 2 2003, 03:01 PM
 

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The midconsole, just make two sides, straight, aslong as the length is good its alright. You can make out lines drawn on the sides. If i would saw along those lines the console would fit exactly on the floor.



lay the console on the floor. In some places the gap between the floor and the console will be bigger then on others spots. Try to find the place where the gap is the biggest! Measure how big that gap is. Lets say its 4 inches for example. Now go along the console from front to back, and every inch, you start measuring from the floor, straight up, 4 inches, and make a dot on the console. You`ll end up with all these points drawn on the side of the console. if you connect those you will get the line you see in the pic above.



take the console apart and screw the 2 sides against eachother so you will have two exact copies when you start cutting along the line.




look at that, it fits!
 

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the midconsole seen from above, through the rearwindow. After the bottoms fits, the top can be shaped into the desired shape. I wanted it to flow down from the minibar into an armrest for the rearseat into a midconsole all the way to the dash. Like a waterfall :biggrin:




this is a block that i secured to the floor, and holes were drilled through the sides, the idea is that the console fits over it, and a long bolt goes through the sides of the console and through the block, therefor locking the console in place. But im thinking or doing this in metal, welded, i didnt have a welder back then.





so this is kinda like the base of the interior. The top of the console is also covered with the same plywood used in the minibar.
 

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when you have unbolted the steeringcolum (4 bolts right behind the dash, 4 bolts in the firewall) disconnect all the wires. I tend to put stickers and pieces of tape on all of those things with matching numbers, so if two plugs have a stickers 2 or 8 or whatever, i know that those should be connected.

The column itself can be unbolted in the middle as you see on the pic, after 24 years it was very tight, pulling the steeringwheel towards you is the easiest way. DONT forget to unbolt the rod for the transmission...







 

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This frame is bolted to the origional dash, along the bottom. I think its pretty save to say that i you want to use this part, you either need to cut your dash up, or get another one from the junkyard.







the lower part is very simple as you can see, the idea is to do all this with buttons later on.
 

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lets make some mirrors for the minibar




here is the mirror for the topshelf. I already cut that in the right shape, only the holes is what i wanna show in detail because thats very hard to do!

if you wanna do something with a curve, first cut the actual cut you wanna make (RED). If you make a corner like on the pic below, make extra cuts (BLUE) There alot of tension in a mirror, specially when you break it. A cut is the weakest place, so it will break there. If you have a corner in the cut, you need an extra cut because the force wants to go further in a straight line, the cut made the corner so it will break the mirror, not the cut......unless you have an extra cut, that way in force can go on to the edge of the mirror





first make a cirkel, smaller then the one you actually want!



then cut it like this, the more lines the better



add some more :biggrin:



this is a trick. Mirror is actually a plate of glass with some sort of foil on the back and then a protectionlayer. The trick is to sand down the middle part of the cirkel because later on this layer will hold the small pieces of glass together, and we dont want that.



start tapping against the bottom in the middle of the cirkel. Very gently, a little bit too hard and the whole thing will break. If you do this good it will be harder and harder to look through, the glass will start to look like icecubes, kinda white.



suddenly you will be through it
 

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the actuall cirkel with extra lines going to the first cirkel











now how to attach them. Regular woodglue works like a charm, realy, it does not eat its way through the mirror causing spots. I tried to take a mirrors off after the glue dryed, very hard. Just use alot of woodglue, and press the mirror on, and wait.....



dryed woordglue on glass is no problem at all, you can scrape it very eaily off with a razorblade.



most of it was done at the time



Last edited by Joost.... at Dec 2 2003, 08:47 PM
 

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Building a swivel chair. There are many many ways of doing this. This is my way, i dunno if its the best way, but it works, its strong, and completely shaped like i want it to be.



first you need to know what size it will be. This is very hard to say when there is no chair yet. But by measuring some stuff its alot easier. After you decide how wide and long it should be, you need an angle too. The one between the lowerpart and the backpart. I made a tool from two pieces of spare MDF, connected by a screw. Kinda like a scissors. Its in the pic drawing above....if the two parts line up with the two parts of the origional chair, put in another screw so the angle is secured. You`ll be amazed how big it is. Then find out how high the armrests should be, and the backpart.











First the bottom plate is cut and the armrests are screwed against it. then the 3 longest rods, which are in the middle, are screwed on, using the `angletool`. Then the brown electrial cord is put on with tape, it is used as a guidingtool. I bend it aslong as the shape is ok. Then all the other rods are cut into the right length and screwed on.



replace the brown cord with this shaped piece of plastic pipe. Over here it is used to run electrical wiring through the walls of houses i dunno if its the same in the states....It will give a smooth round edge when fiberglassed. I held it in front of the other chair, to give you an idea.






all taped in position, ready to be fiberglassed
 

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the glassfibers, or whatever you guys call them. If you want it strong, you difinitly need this. Its gives a structure to the fiberglass.



the resin, i always use the cheapest brushes i can get, because after your done you can throw them in the garbage.



apply some, press the glassfibers on it, and then apply more resin in a stabbing motion. The trick is to avoid airbubbles, the more air, the weaker it is.





you need to soak it very well, take away white looking spots by applying more resin.



slowly build your way up







I use 3 layers on the whole chair, with some extra around the edge between the lower and the back part. What youll end up with is a construction made from 3 layers of fiberglass - MDF - another 3 layers of fiberglass. I call it the sandwich-method. In case you want to try and break it, its the MDF you try to bend, the lower layers of fiberglass will only be compressed, and the toplayer stretched. Way stronger then just wood or fiberglass alone.



Last edited by Joost.... at Dec 3 2003, 07:08 PM
 

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the frame for the chair. First the frame itself was welded. It fits onto the origional mounts. Rails from a `86 Citroën were taken from the junkyard and mounted on top. Then the swivelplate was installed. Its a universal one from the RV-shop. They are used under the front chairs of RV`s motorhomes and some minivans.
 

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Originally posted by Joost....@Dec 4 2003, 01:40 AM
GODDAMNIT


guess i can upload them all AGAINNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
Joost man, I don't know why all these pics keep getting erased, but this is the best damn thread on LIL, and has been the last 2 or 3 freakin times you've gone to all the trouble of uploading all these pics. Keep ya head up! And keep learnin us all. Sick project, man...best of luck! :biggrin:

Cheers,
Jeff
 

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Originally posted by Badass94Cad+Dec 5 2003, 09:10 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Badass94Cad @ Dec 5 2003, 09:10 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--Joost....@Dec 4 2003, 01:40 AM
GODDAMNIT


guess i can upload them all AGAINNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
Joost man, I don't know why all these pics keep getting erased, but this is the best damn thread on LIL, and has been the last 2 or 3 freakin times you've gone to all the trouble of uploading all these pics. Keep ya head up! And keep learnin us all. Sick project, man...best of luck! :biggrin:

Cheers,
Jeff[/b][/quote]

yeah thanx i realy appriciate it, i dont know either, all these websites for uploading shit, pics too big for layitlow, the other site makes them smaller, the other one removes them after a month, the other one doesnt allow linking, the other one puts their logo in my pic, i dont know anymore, IS THERE A NORMAL UPLOAD SITE?
 
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