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Discussion Starter #1
what primer will fill pinholes in bodyfiller?
 

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McAsshole
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glazing putty
 

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I find that if you mix the shit out of a brand new gallon of body filler,and mixing filler realy good when applying the hardener,i dont get pinholes.
 

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I hate when bodyman sends his shit over with pinholes in it, its one of my biggest pet peeves!!!! most common reason for pinholes is from adding TOO MUCH hardner and or not mixing it thoroughly enough, also when you first apply the putty make sure to do as they call : "wetting the panel" meaning to really press in the first skim real hard and wet, then a couple more passes and your done, dont keep playing with it untill it starts to kick or thats just another way of getting air pockets (pinholes) primer is NOT intended to fill pinholes, a really high build will "bridge" over them but later in time they will POP! the primer wont get in to the pinhole fully because at the surface the pinole is so big, but underneath its like a cave it can actually be bigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Originally posted by 6Deuced@Oct 21 2007, 07:19 PM~9052140
I hate when bodyman sends his shit over with pinholes in it, its one of my biggest pet peeves!!!! most common reason for pinholes is from adding TOO MUCH hardner and or not mixing it thoroughly enough, also when you first apply the putty make sure to do as they call : "wetting the panel" meaning to really press in the first skim real hard and wet, then a couple more passes and your done, dont keep playing with it untill it starts to kick or thats just another way of getting air pockets (pinholes) primer is NOT intended to fill pinholes, a really high build will "bridge" over them but later in time they will POP! the primer wont get in to the pinhole fully because at the surface the pinole is so big, but underneath its like a cave it can actually be bigger.
i am a newbie to body work! so i get a lot of them.can i prime over them and use glazing putty to fill after? they are hard to spot on a whole frame!i would think they would be eaisier to spot after i prime!input well appericated.
 

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Originally posted by redline@Oct 21 2007, 07:15 PM~9053178
i am a newbie to body work! so i get a lot of them.can i prime over them and use glazing putty to fill after? they are hard to spot on a whole frame!i would think they would be eaisier to spot after i prime!input well appericated.
are you using polyester putty to finish your bodywork???? if not you should be! guidecoating yoour bodywork while you sand it helps a great deal in spotting pinholes, also when you blow it off have the airblower right close and cup your hand around the body work and move back and forth, it creates suction and gets the dust out of the pinholes so they are easier to see, then the guidecoat will show them as black dots. :cool:
 

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Originally posted by redline@Oct 21 2007, 07:15 PM~9053178
i am a newbie to body work! so i get a lot of them.can i prime over them and use glazing putty to fill after? they are hard to spot on a whole frame!i would think they would be eaisier to spot after i prime!input well appericated.
spot what u can do before ur primer, then re-spot and re-prime ;)
 

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Originally posted by 6Deuced@Oct 21 2007, 06:19 PM~9052140
I hate when bodyman sends his shit over with pinholes in it, its one of my biggest pet peeves!!!! most common reason for pinholes is from adding TOO MUCH hardner and or not mixing it thoroughly enough, also when you first apply the putty make sure to do as they call : "wetting the panel" meaning to really press in the first skim real hard and wet, then a couple more passes and your done, dont keep playing with it untill it starts to kick or thats just another way of getting air pockets (pinholes) primer is NOT intended to fill pinholes, a really high build will "bridge" over them but later in time they will POP! the primer wont get in to the pinhole fully because at the surface the pinole is so big, but underneath its like a cave it can actually be bigger.

This man knows his stuff so take heed! If you don't get your bodywork down, geting your prepping process together, etc., You gonna regret it. Because all those improfections in those stages before the refinishing stage will appear later. It could be months, 6 months, years even before they want to rise up. It's pop up right right through that pretty finish. ;) :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT@Oct 22 2007, 10:41 AM~9055824
nobody mentioned it yet so i will.........
IF YOU ARE USING SHITTY BODY FILLER LIKE THE OLD BONDO IT WILL PINHOLE LIKE CRAZY AND BE AS HARD AS A ROCK TO SAND...........
bodywork isn't cheap and neither are the materials
i am using evercoat z-grip filler.
 

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always use a 2 part putty,,,,,meaning,,,,with hardner seperate.....the stuff in the tubes suck,,,,thats just my .02......but,,from me using it,,,,ive found that 2part puttys are way better....most of the time u dont have big area's of bondo to fill in a bunch of pinholes,,,so what i do is ,i apply the putty on with a single edge razor,,,the stuff i use has a blue color hardener,,so it looks differnt than the ragegold i use for filler
 

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Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT+Oct 22 2007, 09:41 AM~9055824-->
nobody mentioned it yet so i will.........
IF YOU ARE USING SHITTY BODY FILLER LIKE THE OLD BONDO IT WILL PINHOLE LIKE CRAZY AND BE AS HARD AS A ROCK TO SAND...........
bodywork isn't cheap and neither are the materials
[/b]

:roflmao: I forgot to mention that! have fun featheredging that out!


<!--QuoteBegin-redline
@Oct 22 2007, 03:26 PM~9058169
i am using evercoat z-grip filler.

Evercoat's Rage series is the shit!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Originally posted by Anteazy@Oct 22 2007, 11:19 PM~9061539
:roflmao:  I forgot to mention that!  have fun featheredging that out!
Evercoat's Rage series is the shit!
have not used that yet but will go for the rage next time!thanks homie
 

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Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT@Oct 22 2007, 09:41 AM~9055824
nobody mentioned it yet so i will.........
IF YOU ARE USING SHITTY BODY FILLER LIKE THE OLD BONDO IT WILL PINHOLE LIKE CRAZY AND BE AS HARD AS A ROCK TO SAND...........
bodywork isn't cheap and neither are the materials

;)

use good filler, you wont have pinholes, and then use 2k high build primer and you'll never have that problem
 

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also remember when you spread it leave the least amount of lines possibles or any textured edges this kills your sand paper and is a waste of time and material.

when running a shop being efficient in both time and materials is key to excellent production. this way you dontwaste your time or energy on something that could have been avoidied by simply spreading the filler smoother.

ill try n post pics of the diff since im doing the 5th blocking on my chevy.
 
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