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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
whats up ?

i've got a car delivered that has been sandblasted, REAL LIGHT pitting in the steel, no warpage spotted as of yet. what can you suggest to prep the steel so that it is paint and primer ready ?

here is the plan i am running with so far

1. sandblasted steel

2. 3 1/2 inch angle grinder w corse scothbrite pad to take out the pitting

3. DA w 180 grit to create uniform substrate and mimimalize scratches

4. bondo (rage gold)

5. metal conditioner

6. epoxy primer (ppg dplf)

7. wet on wet polyester filler (evercoat slicksand)

8. block out

9. high-build (k38)

10. block out, etc. base, etc. clear, etc.



secondly, is there any system that can be sprayed wet on wet from steel to finish coat. just wondering about doing firewalls, underhood/trunk, you know, the shit that does not get examined.

thanks in advance.

j.
 

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you better primer it with some eching primer before touching it cause later down the road the primer might peel off cause it sat to long bare metel
 

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epoxy or etching primer first. altho epoxy is some hard shit, to get sanded down smooth, it sticks good. couple good coats of build primer should hide some stuff.
sounds like you got it under control.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
epoxy, block that out, then filler over the epoxy ?? can i hit the epoxy w the DA and at what grit ??

and 120 is fine to prep the sandblasted steel, i was gonna run w 180, the rougher the quicker i guess.

i was always under the impression that it was always bondo over steel first then seal it all in w the epoxy. more research to be done i guess.

j.
 

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Originally posted by SELF MADE@Sep 18 2005, 09:36 PM~3840669
epoxy, block that out, then filler over the epoxy ?? can i hit the epoxy w the DA and at what grit ??

and 120 is fine to prep the sandblasted steel, i was gonna run w 180, the rougher the quicker i guess.

i was always under the impression that it was always bondo over steel first then seal it all in w the epoxy. more research to be done i guess.

j.
What kinda epoxy do you plan on using. Proper application is epoxy primer then body filler. If you Use PPG DPLF epoxy, it has instructions to do it this way. bare steel can be in any grit from 80-180 before priming. The finer the grit for sanding the bare steel, the hotter the panel will get as you got more cutting power.

All body fillers, even all metal and duraglass etc. Contain talc, and non are waterproof. They are all hydroscopic and absorb moisture. This is why epoxy then filler is best. Typically most epoxies need to be wetsanded to make then easier to sand. I usually just da the area with 120 and apply filler, you can grind the opxy off and then apply the filler if you want. The epoxy might tend to ball up on the paper as it heats up from sanding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
after looking into it i can see that epoxy first is the thing to do. so here goes.

1. steel DA'd to btwn 80- 180

2. dplf epoxy wet sanded to, say 180 again ?

3. rage gold, finished in 180

4. k38

sound ike a good set of steps so far ???

j.
 

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Originally posted by skandalouz@Sep 18 2005, 10:29 PM~3840290
DA everything with 120 before you do anything.  epoxy,  then do any filler work.  Do not prime over the sandblasted metal.
What do you think of using the self-etching primer? A more experienced buddy of mine (and the paint shop) recommended me to spray this over the bare metal of my frame after I wrapped it before painting. I used it on my underbody and everything else I painted that I took down to bare metal.
 

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Joe, if you do not plan on using epoxy then use the self etching primer first before using primer surfacer. If you are spraying epoxy primer then primer surfacer it is not needed and most major paint companies do not even recommend it. Epoxy is designed to adhere very well to bare metal without the use of an etching primer.
 

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Originally posted by SELF MADE@Sep 19 2005, 08:11 AM~3841907
after looking into it i can see that epoxy first is the thing to do. so here goes.

1. steel DA'd to btwn 80- 180

2. dplf epoxy wet sanded to, say 180 again ?

3. rage gold, finished in 180

4. k38

sound ike a good set of steps so far ???

j.


I Sand the epoxy with 120, but 180 will do. I also do all of my metal work before applying the epoxy too.
 

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Originally posted by skandalouz@Sep 19 2005, 06:08 AM~3840805
What kinda epoxy do you plan on using.  Proper application is epoxy primer then body filler.  If you Use PPG DPLF epoxy,  it has instructions to do it this way.  bare steel can be in any grit from 80-180 before priming.  The finer the grit for sanding the bare steel,  the hotter the panel will get as you got more cutting power.

All body fillers,  even all metal and duraglass etc.  Contain talc,  and non are waterproof.  They are all hydroscopic and absorb moisture.  This is why epoxy then filler is best.  Typically most epoxies need to be wetsanded to make then easier to sand.  I usually just da the area with 120 and apply filler,  you can grind the opxy off and then apply the filler if you want.  The epoxy might tend to ball up on the paper as it heats up from sanding.



The finer the grit for sanding the bare steel, the hotter the panel will get as you got more cutting power.




read this again are you sure about this :biggrin:
 

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CALL ME STUPID, BUT I'M LOOKING TO FINISH MY RIDE ON MY OWN. I THOUGHT YOU COULD ONLY USE BODY FILLER ON BARE STEEL.?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
here is the score.


1. bare steel da'd to 80

2. epoxy primer 2 wet coats. set over night, don't bother sanding it out

3. BONDO !!!!!!!!!!

4. epoxy over your body work and high spots, 1 wet coat. let set over night, again don't bother sanding.

5. high build primer surfacer 30 min flashes. let set over night. block out 320 dry, 600 wet.

6. epoxy again, reduced as sealer, one wet coat. let set 24hrs.

7. wet sand 600-1500 depending on how nuts you wanna get.

8. base

now you can continue w your normal routine, how crazy you wanna get is up to you.

j.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
1,b. degrease that motherfucker till your white t-shirt wont pick up any trash or debris.
 

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Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT@Sep 21 2005, 07:41 PM~3861357
The finer the grit for sanding the bare steel,  the hotter the panel will get as you got more cutting power.
read this again are you sure about this :biggrin:

YES! the paper just doesn't last as long. I use a 8"pad on a grinder to strip paint using 80 daily, for the past 5 yrs. I am speaking from experience. Using a 6" DA is not going to heat the panel up much unless you lay into one spot for too long. I guess I wasn;t clear with my reply then. :happysad:
 

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Originally posted by SELF MADE@Sep 22 2005, 10:45 PM~3869621
here is the score.
1. bare steel da'd to 80

2. epoxy primer 2 wet coats. set over night, don't bother sanding it out

3. BONDO !!!!!!!!!!

4. epoxy over your body work and high spots, 1 wet coat. let set over night, again don't bother sanding.

5. high build primer surfacer 30 min flashes. let set over night. block out 320 dry, 600 wet.

6. epoxy again, reduced as sealer, one wet coat. let set 24hrs.

7. wet sand 600-1500 depending on how nuts you wanna get.

8. base

now you can continue w your normal routine, how crazy you wanna get is up to you.

j.
What primer are you using, becasue with DPLF, you don;t need to wiat 24 hrs when used as a sealer, I let it flash 30 min then base over it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
dplf. true, it does not need that long, but if you have the time to waste, or wait its worth it. it can be covered within 7 days of application with the same results.
 
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