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Originally posted by SELF MADE@Sep 18 2005, 09:36 PM~3840669
epoxy, block that out, then filler over the epoxy ?? can i hit the epoxy w the DA and at what grit ??

and 120 is fine to prep the sandblasted steel, i was gonna run w 180, the rougher the quicker i guess.

i was always under the impression that it was always bondo over steel first then seal it all in w the epoxy. more research to be done i guess.

j.
What kinda epoxy do you plan on using. Proper application is epoxy primer then body filler. If you Use PPG DPLF epoxy, it has instructions to do it this way. bare steel can be in any grit from 80-180 before priming. The finer the grit for sanding the bare steel, the hotter the panel will get as you got more cutting power.

All body fillers, even all metal and duraglass etc. Contain talc, and non are waterproof. They are all hydroscopic and absorb moisture. This is why epoxy then filler is best. Typically most epoxies need to be wetsanded to make then easier to sand. I usually just da the area with 120 and apply filler, you can grind the opxy off and then apply the filler if you want. The epoxy might tend to ball up on the paper as it heats up from sanding.
 

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Joe, if you do not plan on using epoxy then use the self etching primer first before using primer surfacer. If you are spraying epoxy primer then primer surfacer it is not needed and most major paint companies do not even recommend it. Epoxy is designed to adhere very well to bare metal without the use of an etching primer.
 

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Originally posted by SELF MADE@Sep 19 2005, 08:11 AM~3841907
after looking into it i can see that epoxy first is the thing to do. so here goes.

1. steel DA'd to btwn 80- 180

2. dplf epoxy wet sanded to, say 180 again ?

3. rage gold, finished in 180

4. k38

sound ike a good set of steps so far ???

j.


I Sand the epoxy with 120, but 180 will do. I also do all of my metal work before applying the epoxy too.
 

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Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT@Sep 21 2005, 07:41 PM~3861357
The finer the grit for sanding the bare steel,  the hotter the panel will get as you got more cutting power.
read this again are you sure about this :biggrin:

YES! the paper just doesn't last as long. I use a 8"pad on a grinder to strip paint using 80 daily, for the past 5 yrs. I am speaking from experience. Using a 6" DA is not going to heat the panel up much unless you lay into one spot for too long. I guess I wasn;t clear with my reply then. :happysad:
 

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Originally posted by SELF MADE@Sep 22 2005, 10:45 PM~3869621
here is the score.
1. bare steel da'd to 80

2. epoxy primer 2 wet coats. set over night, don't bother sanding it out

3. BONDO !!!!!!!!!!

4. epoxy over your body work and high spots, 1 wet coat. let set over night, again don't bother sanding.

5. high build primer surfacer 30 min flashes. let set over night. block out 320 dry, 600 wet.

6. epoxy again, reduced as sealer, one wet coat. let set 24hrs.

7. wet sand 600-1500 depending on how nuts you wanna get.

8. base

now you can continue w your normal routine, how crazy you wanna get is up to you.

j.
What primer are you using, becasue with DPLF, you don;t need to wiat 24 hrs when used as a sealer, I let it flash 30 min then base over it.
 

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Originally posted by HiLow@Sep 24 2006, 05:16 AM~6233904
Actually my body man recommended this also. He said he would even spray a light coat before epoxy because it bites into the metal better than the epoxy. From what he was telling me from experience was epoxy is great for sealing  metal to avoid corrosion but it doesnt stick like the etchin primer and rock chips are much more prone to happen.... any input? my car is down to bare metal right now and im gettin all confused.

Absolute best method is etch them before epoxy, But if you use Etch and there is a problem, then the paint company will not warranty it. Go to PPG's website and download the p-sheet for DPLF is says to apply it directly to bare metal. This is what we do at work as well, and what out paint rep recommends.
 
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